[Downermazda]

You need a scan tool that has data logging capabilities to see what the pcm is seeing.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

You need a scan tool that has data logging capabilities to see what the pcm is seeing.

Oh yea I don’t have that type of one, is that the only way for me to find out what’s going on?

 

[Downermazda]

it will be very helpful when you diagnosing sensors

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

it will be very helpful when you diagnosing sensors

Ok then I’ll go buy one that has live data tracking on it. Thanks.

 

[m3iguy]

Ok then I’ll go buy one that has live data tracking on it. Thanks.

I'm not aware of any reasonably priced commercially available scan tool on the market that will read and display crank/cam signal data that the ECM is getting and processing from those sensors. I believe that most (or perhaps all) of the automakers build that capability into their proprietary dealer-only tools, but those typically cost very big bucks, and most require a paid subscription fee as well.

That's why I've been posting about needing a scope, which is a non-proprietary tool that reads and displays data directly from the sensor signal wires, and doesn't need to be connected to any of the computers on the vehicle.

However, if you do know of a reasonably priced commercially available scan tool that can read Mazda crank/cam sensor signal data, then post it here, and I'll get into line to buy that too.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

I'm not aware of any reasonably priced commercially available scan tool on the market that will read and display crank/cam signal data that the ECM is getting and processing from those sensors. I believe that most (or perhaps all) of the automakers build that capability into their proprietary dealer-only tools, but those typically cost very big bucks, and most require a paid subscription fee as well.

That's why I've been posting about needing a scope, which is a non-proprietary tool that reads and displays data directly from the sensor signal wires, and doesn't need to be connected to any of the computers on the vehicle.

However, if you do know of a reasonably priced commercially available scan tool that can read Mazda crank/cam sensor signal data, then post it here, and I'll get into line to buy that too.

Well I don’t think I bought one that can read crank sensor from computer but I bought one that has live data, I do need one that has live data because I don’t have one that has live data and from what I’ve been told the live data is very helpful when troubleshooting. I will go unplug the sensor and take my multimeter and test the power that way and I’ll get back to you and see what the multimeter says, should I have the multimeter set to DC volts around 20?

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

I'm not aware of any reasonably priced commercially available scan tool on the market that will read and display crank/cam signal data that the ECM is getting and processing from those sensors. I believe that most (or perhaps all) of the automakers build that capability into their proprietary dealer-only tools, but those typically cost very big bucks, and most require a paid subscription fee as well.

That's why I've been posting about needing a scope, which is a non-proprietary tool that reads and displays data directly from the sensor signal wires, and doesn't need to be connected to any of the computers on the vehicle.

However, if you do know of a reasonably priced commercially available scan tool that can read Mazda crank/cam sensor signal data, then post it here, and I'll get into line to buy that too.

Ok I put the multimeter with a paper clip as you said and I got a reading of 4.75 out of the first hole then the middle one I got 0.35 which I’m assuming is the trigger wire and then the last one is ground so I got 0.00.

 

[Downermazda]

The manufacturer scan tools don’t read like what a scope does either. Some may have scope functions built in but still needs To be set up like a scope. They read engine rpm and cam/crank sync just like any other scan tool that that can read live data. A scope is used in conjunction with the scan tool because reading the square wave of the sensor with a scope only tells you that the sensor is picking up the tone wheel. It doesn’t tell you if the pcm is seeing it or if it’s correctly timed.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

The manufacturer scan tools don’t read like what a scope does either. Some may have scope functions built in but still needs To be set up like a scope. They read engine rpm and cam/crank sync just like any other scan tool that that can read live data. A scope is used in conjunction with the scan tool because reading the square wave of the sensor with a scope only tells you that the sensor is picking up the tone wheel. It doesn’t tell you if the pcm is seeing it or if it’s correctly timed.

Ohh ok, so I’m getting power to my sensor, it’s a brand new sensor do you think that the sensor it’s self is bad?

 

[m3iguy]

Ok I put the multimeter with a paper clip as you said and I got a reading of 4.75 out of the first hole then the middle one I got 0.35 which I’m assuming is the trigger wire and then the last one is ground so I got 0.00.

I'd say 4.75 is close enough to 5.0, so the reference and ground appear to be ok. As I wrote earlier, you could backprobe the signal wire at the connector and read it with your meter, but that's really not going to show you anything of value about the signal waveform. You really need to find someone who has a scope and knows how to use it to read and evaluate crank and cam signal data. Do you know of any travelling mechanics in your area who would be able to do that at a reasonable cost?

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

I'd say 4.75 is close enough to 5.0, so the reference and ground appear to be ok. As I wrote earlier, you could backprobe the signal wire at the connector and read it with your meter, but that's really not going to show you anything of value about the signal waveform. You really need to find someone who has a scope and knows how to use it to read and evaluate crank and cam signal data. Do you know of any travelling mechanics in your area who would be able to do that at a reasonable cost?

No I don’t know anyone that could do that for me sadly. The thing that’s throwing me off is it ran just like this before I took it out, I know that doesn’t help anything lol but I’m lost, I forgot to mention that there is a ground cable that hooks to the transmission body for ground and when I pulled the engine the wire came apart from the connector. I don’t think that has anything to do with it but I just wanted to let u know about that, I haven’t had a chance to connect it back to the wire so I just twisted them together for right now and hooked it back up to the tranny.

 

[m3iguy]

No I don’t know anyone that could do that for me sadly. ...

Checking that waveform is the only way I know to confirm a good signal is being produced, so unfortunately I don't have anything else to suggest except to disassemble everything that you did, and check to see if you can find anything wrong with it.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

Checking that waveform is the only way I know to confirm a good signal is being produced, so unfortunately I don't have anything else to suggest except to disassemble everything that you did, and check to see if you can find anything wrong with it.

Ok well I appreciate your help, I’ll keep tinkering at it and see if I find anything that’s wrong with it, I hope that I don’t have to pull it again but if I do I’m hoping I’ll find the answer then. Thanks!

 

[m3iguy]

Ok well I appreciate your help, I’ll keep tinkering at it and see if I find anything that’s wrong with it, I hope that I don’t have to pull it again but if I do I’m hoping I’ll find the answer then. Thanks!

Glad to try helping you out, and I hope you get it figured out soon!

 

[Downermazda]

It seems since the mechanical part appears to be correct it is an electrical problem. Most likely not a sensor since it ran before so likely something between the sensor and the pcm. But now without being able to see what’s going on makes for hard diagnosing.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

It seems since the mechanical part appears to be correct it is an electrical problem. Most likely not a sensor since it ran before so likely something between the sensor and the pcm. But now without being able to see what’s going on makes for hard diagnosing.

Yea it’s very hard, I just don’t know what I did to make it not get spark threw the coils, even the trigger wire on the coils is getting power, but it’s not sending the power threw the coils. I don’t want to pull it again, but at the rate this is going I’m probably gonna have too sadly.

 

[Downermazda]

If that’s the case I would first verify there is a good ground circuit. With the positive lead of your meter on battery positive terminal and negative lead at the coil ground terminals. If you don’t have a ground there then I would be looking for a ground that may have been misses.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

If that’s the case I would first verify there is a good ground circuit. With the positive lead of your meter on battery positive terminal and negative lead at the coil ground terminals. If you don’t have a ground there then I would be looking for a ground that may have been misses.

So put my positive prong on my multimeter to the positive point on my battery then take my black leak on my multimeter and put it into the connecter that connects to the coil and see if there is a good ground? How would I know if there is a good ground?

 

[Downermazda]

It will show battery voltage. You should maybe check the ground wire at the crank sensor too. Having 0v there just shows it doesn’t have a short to voltage, not that it’s connected to ground.

 

[UnknownGalaxy24]

It will show battery voltage. You should maybe check the ground wire at the crank sensor too. Having 0v there just shows it doesn’t have a short to voltage, not that it’s connected to ground.

Ok so if I have good ground it will show battery voltage and if I don’t have good ground it will show 0v?