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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm in the middle of replacing my driver's side rear wheel hub. This is a sealed hub and bearing which should be a direct replacement. I'm having some trouble getting to the back side of the wheel hub which requires removal of 4 torx star bolts and also the wheel speed sensor. It seems like the shock is in the way. Has anyone done this that could help me out. Am i supposed to remove anything to gain access to the back of the wheel hub?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok well i figured out that I had to remove the shock to gain access to the rear hub assembly. Then I got stuck on the wheel speed sensor. I didn't have the right tool to take out the bolt. I don't even know what kind of bolt it is. I'm thinking it's a female star socket but i don't know what size. I had to reassemble everything for a different time. Feeling a bit defeated today. I've tried searching and searching but couldn't find specifics on this project. If anyone has done this and could shed some light it'd be much appreciated.
 

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Picture of your mystery bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 4 bolts holding the hub assembly on are t45 but I need help with the connctor bolt that locks the connector into place. Its the smaller bolt next to the connector circled in blue. Thanks for your response though. I hope someone has the answer. Too bad the shop manual doesn't list bolt and fastener sizes.
 

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Ok well i figured out that I had to remove the shock to gain access to the rear hub assembly. Then I got stuck on the wheel speed sensor. I didn't have the right tool to take out the bolt. I don't even know what kind of bolt it is. I'm thinking it's a female star socket but i don't know what size. I had to reassemble everything for a different time. Feeling a bit defeated today. I've tried searching and searching but couldn't find specifics on this project. If anyone has done this and could shed some light it'd be much appreciated.
Having some trouble posting my own picture but you can find a picture in this thread.
http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=384749

If you scroll down to hub removal it is number 9 circled in blue. It is the bolt holding the connector in place

If I have the correct picture, it looks like an E-torx bolt.

There exists internal and external torx bolts and screws.
External torx are often called E-torx.
There is also security Torx with a pin in the middle.

A good quality automotive or tool store will have E-torx bits.

Hope this helps...





Pic of E-torx bits:

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the reply. I had a feeling it might be one of those but I didn't have a set on me. I'll pick up a set soon and try again. I'll post my results. If anyone for sure knows what bolt it is you're still welcome to chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update:

I had some free time yesterday so I decided to go at it again. I picked up an e-torx socket set earlier this week. I got the whole hub replaced but learned a few things in the process. First of all that small bolt I was referring to is in fact an e-torx. It can be removed with an E-6 torx socket, although I found out that you don't need to remove that before removing the hub itself. I figured out that the sensor itself is a two piece connector. It unclips from the other half that is bolted into the wheel hub. To unclip I just had to squeeze the side tab and pull straight out. Finally i had access to remove the dust shkeld and also the wheel hub, then i was able to access the E6-torx bolt while the hub was out. Kind of sucks that I had to find out the hard way, but some things you just have to find out that way.

Car feels a lot better now. I heard some clicking while spinning the old hub. Before it felt lile it was being held back. When i would let off the gas my car would start to slow down. Now she just rolls. I still have some other things i need to fix to make my car ride smooth again but I'm one step closer.
 

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Glad you figured it out. I will be replacing my hub assembly soon and to this thread gave me the upper hand... now I know what tools I will need that I don't have haha thank you
 

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I should've read this before starting my hub replacement. Forgot about the wheel speed sensor needing to be transferred to the new hub. I'll be picking up an e-6 torx bit (or set) tonight.

My big issue right now is my t-45 started to bend under torque and now looks "swirled". Lifetime warranty bit so I am a little surprised I was able to make enough torque on my 10" ratchet to break it. Started to strip one of the bolts in my hub. Crossing my fingers that a new bit will be able to get that bolt out, having my doubts.
 

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I should've read this before starting my hub replacement. Forgot about the wheel speed sensor needing to be transferred to the new hub. I'll be picking up an e-6 torx bit (or set) tonight.

My big issue right now is my t-45 started to bend under torque and now looks "swirled". Lifetime warranty bit so I am a little surprised I was able to make enough torque on my 10" ratchet to break it. Started to strip one of the bolts in my hub. Crossing my fingers that a new bit will be able to get that bolt out, having my doubts.
Heat heat and more heat. Oxy-acetylene are the quickest but propane with the proper torch head will work. Since replacing hub no need to worry about damage. Heat the knuckle or hub assembly housing. Not the bolt itself. Try to do it without getting glowing red. Then try to torque free. Sometimes impact helps with heating. If still a problem heat again this time get flowing red hot. The bolts get seized with time. Become one with the housing. To avoid this with any component during the winter after snow removal and such. Especially if salt is used. Wash your vehicle. If possible go to a personal manual wash. Get into the nooks and crannies with the water. Flush out all the salt water.that’s the culprit
 
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