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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have several questions.

Are both front and rear speakers in Mazda3 5-door Hatchback 6" X 8"?

If I just replace the factory speakers with aftermarket 6X8 component in the front and 2-way 6x8 speakers in the rear (I'm considering Infinity speakers) without using an amplifier, would I notice a significant improvement over the factory speakers?

Or, would the insufficient power from the factory head unit to drive the aftermarket speakers (which are made of polywoofers that require more power to be driven properly than factory paper speakers) off-set the improvement made by replacing speakers?

I would greatly appreciate help from you guys.
 

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http://www.mazda3forums.com/viewtopic.php?t=1630

1) yes both are 6x8". Front depth is 2-5/8" rear is 2-7/8".
2) yes, you will notice some improvement. the highs will be sharper and they will play a lot cleaner.
3) paper has a better response than any other material. BUT, with the technological advancements, poly has come a long way. either are great, poly lasts longer though.
3a) the factory deck does not have enough power for louder play.
 

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ZoomZoom,

I just ordered 2 pairs of the infinity reference 6802cf... I checked with crutchfield, circuitcity, and sounddomain.com and they all said it should fit the 3... vaboom just confirmed that since the top mount depth for the infinity is exactly 2-5/8... I plan on just running them off the deck, amp to come later...

side note, this is the first time i have ordered something for a car that hasn't arrived yet... I guess i'm just a little overzealous to get started!!!
 

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:D Newbie here. (HI!)
So, if I were to replace only the front door speakers with some that have a lower bass response than the factory, would I notice a big improvement in the lows? The highs sound fine to me, but the mids and lows are kinda sad.
Is there a designated "subwoofer" in the setup as-is?

I guess to make a long quesiton short, what is the least $$, highest result way to getting some bass into my 3?
 

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VraiDiouf said:
If you order of off www.sounddomain.com, their site is very reliable. Their orders always come in.
hehe... thats what i did... they have a really good deal right now... $75/pair with free shipping... and although you can find them cheaper through ikesound.com or etronics.com, sounddomain.com is an authorized dealer of infinity so you can get a warranty through infinity...
 

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Went to edit but editing is time restricted.. hmm.. anyhoo.. I wanted to add, does anyone have the specs on the speakers that are stock for comparison w/ other ones online, etc?
 

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Factory speakers are very weak paper cones. So virtually any aftermarket speaker is better.

Pixel - putting a set of aftermarket speakers will give you what your looking for. I would just buy a set of components and ditch the factory stuff. The crossovers that come with components are speaker matched.
 

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Also, www.sounddomain.com beats any competitor's price by 5 percent, plus has reasonable shipping prices. I wish I would have ordered my deck from them instead of etronics. I ordered a Basslink from sounddomain 2 weeks after ordering a deck from etronics, and the Basslink showed up the same day as the deck. And etronics charged abysmal amounts of cash for the shipping. Just my personal experience.
 

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So the Scosche adaptor sold here http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/SCOSA68 would work as an adaptor for the front speakers and the rear speakers in a sedan? I am seriously considering replacing them in a month or two (have the cash, want to let the cones break in properly to see if they're necessary), but I am having difficulties finding component sets in the size Mazda has stock. Thus, the adaptor would make my search much simpler, since any set will do. Also, I should get a component set with a silk tweeter for cleaner sound, right? That rules out the Infinity Kappa Perfects, since their tweeters are aluminum.
 

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Ive never bought pre-made adapters as they are very easy to make. Check out my install guide in my signature.

Tweeters tend to perform better when made of silk. They have a better response curve.

There are 3 sets of 6x8" components that I know of. JL, Infinity and HiFonics.
 

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3 simple questions:
1)What’s the colors of each speaker wires ? I know that the front left speaker wires are white(-) and grey(+)…. The others?
2)Do you think I can intercept the rear speakers wires without removing the rear door panel. I suppose yes, but where? For example removing only the cover under the front doors or in another point?
3)What the best way to get power (12V) for the AMP in the trunk?
Thanks.

VaBoom great tutorial…. Thank you
 

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1) I know the wires in the door, but not at the deck. Check my website.

2) You may be able to intercept the wires in the lower B Pillar. Will have to strip away the factory tape/loom to expose the wires. Measure with a multimeter on resistance (good multimeters will auto switch to voltage or blow their circuit if you tag the wrong wires). If you grab the wires in the B Pillar, you still will need an ignition source to turn on the amp. I recommend running the wires from the HU.

3) Through the firewall, and into the cabin. You may have to check with other forum members that have their system installed. I didnt see any grommets on the drivers side, but there was one on the passenger side. I drilled my own.
 

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I know the wires in the front left door from your web site: are grey and white. Are the same in the front left door?

So your advice is to running the wires from the HU but I still have the same problem. What's the speakers wires colors behind the HU? And the ignition source to turn on the amp?

Thanls
 

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Sorry an error in my question:I know the wires in the front left door from your web site: are grey and white. Are the same in the front right door?
 

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Yes, the wires for the front are Grey and White. I dont know the colors behind the deck just yet. The saga continues this weekend.
 

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Routing wires through the doors

I'm working on wiring up an Alpine 50x4 amp into a set of Infiniti components in the front and Infiniti 6x8's in the back. I was running power through the firewall for the amp when I got to the pillar and tried to figure out the best way to get the wires run through the rubber guides into the doors. All of the speaker wire I have run in the past has been a direct route through the door, but the 3 has a socket on the car side. I had hoped on being able to run the 16ga wire through all the way to the speakers.


Is there an easy way to do this, or do I need to bite the bullet and splice into the factory harness? The only other possibility I can think of is to drill out the top section of the plastic harness and run the wire through there, but it looks nearly impossible to do that for the front without removing the door or the dash.
 
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