[MZ3_Hazardiz808]

I've been reading that people have been getting their spc camber arms to -6 but how is that possible when a stock spc arm only goes -1.5? does taking out the locking nut make such difference. I'm planning on running 17 or 18x8.5/9.5 +30. will the SPC be suitable?

 

[MZ3_Hazardiz808]

can someone shed some light?

 

[MZ3_Hazardiz808]

so I've heard you can take out the lock nut for more camber but how much more will it give you with the SPC. I know some one on mazdafitment with -7 on his SPC.

 

[XCNuse]

Not a lot of 'stance' people come around this forum anymore, but yes, if you remove the larger locking nut (certainly keep one of them in there), and keep the other (I think there are two right?), otherwise find another matching nut and cut it in half or something to give you a smaller one, and get it in there, and that will give you more space to adjust.

The part can't really spin in place anyways, but a locking nut just helps solidify everything a bit more.

 

[philrab]

The part can't really spin in place anyways, but a locking nut just helps solidify everything a bit more.

Warning, engineering nerdism to follow: The lock nut solidifies the assembly by forcing loads through the assembly rather than concentrating them on the interface between the threads on the shank and the threaded assemblies. Less risk of stripping anything out, which would be a pretty wild ride if it happened at speed.

 

[ckingsley]

Yeah, running a rod end without the lock nut is a VERY bad idea.

 

[flatlander937]

Even with the locknut... 6+ degrees of camber isn't for those with smart ideas.

 

[philrab]

Even with the locknut... 6+ degrees of camber isn't for those with smart ideas.

I wasn't even going to debate with the OP or anyone else the merits of running -6 degrees of camber. Even in my Miata, and that was a pure weekend/back road/autocross car, I never needed more than -2 degrees camber on very sticky street tires.

I figure anyone asking for -6 is looking to cram some crazy offset wheel into their fender wells. I at least want the guy to do it in such a way as to minimize the liklihood that he hurts himself.

 

[ckingsley]

Yeah good point. -6 pretty much screams "I like bad ideas" anyway.

 

[XCNuse]

Warning, engineering nerdism to follow: The lock nut solidifies the assembly by forcing loads through the assembly rather than concentrating them on the interface between the threads on the shank and the threaded assemblies. Less risk of stripping anything out, which would be a pretty wild ride if it happened at speed.

Like the SURE arms that snapped in half on the threaded rod? Yeah I bet that was exciting for whoever broke those...

Yeah, obviously this isn't about good ideas, just answering a question lol

 

[color0]

Don't quote me for 100% certainty but the SPC arms I have seem to be good for at least -3.5, I'm at -2.2 left and there's at least 1cm of thread that I could still shorten the arm by. Getting a thinner jam nut from a hardware supplier will help, pushing the LCA out using the eccentric (and compensate toe using a toe link) will help a little bit as well.

Unless the particular look you're going for NEEDS that much camber I'd probably recommend just maxing out the SPC arm and fitting the offset as necessary.

The SURE arms were just crap, lol... not designed by an engineer. The Corksport arms would be a more viable alternative to the SPC, however I don't know how short you can get them to go. Corksport toe links go REALLY short if you need them to, maybe the camber arms are designed with a similar (huge) range.

 

[MZ3_Hazardiz808]

well my 3 is gonna be in a show this December and I'm gonna be running 18x9.75 +33 all around. so I think I would need a decent amount of camber and pull to fit the rim. I want to get the car to fit the rim and not the rims that fit the car. you know what I mean?

will the threads still yank out the arm even if I take out the nut and tighten all the way down?

 

[philrab]

well my 3 is gonna be in a show this December and I'm gonna be running 18x9.75 +33 all around. so I think I would need a decent amount of camber and pull to fit the rim. I want to get the car to fit the rim and not the rims that fit the car. you know what I mean?

will the threads still yank out the arm even if I take out the nut and tighten all the way down?

Let me put it this way; that arm was never designed to support that load with the jam nut removed, and I can't endorse you driving any real number of miles on public roads as such. You will potentially be endangering yourself, and other motorists.

Find a thinner jam nut, or narrow the provided one. Or, drive to the show on stock arms/wheels and swap while there.


Sent from my iPhone with Tapatalk.

 

[MZ3_Hazardiz808]

ok so the verdict is to find a smaller lock nut.

with that being said, would SPC be good enough to do the job or would I need a more aggressive camber arm? DE was my first option but he no longer responds to emails. so the only options are JBR or corksport.