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Depending how much height difference you are looking to do, you shouldn't need a re-alignment. Raising the car 1/4" gave the car about 0.1deg rear toe in, which isn't too insane and will not scrub the hell out of your tires.
I'd like to clear up a lot of misunderstandings going on in the last few posts... sorry for any perceived curtness.
Ride quality is determined almost strictly by the dampers for a street car on street spring rates. My car on 8k/6k springs is softer than another KW car on 6k/4k springs, and by admission of several MS3 owners, no harsher than the stock MS3 suspension -- because of very soft bump damping. Even 12k/9k springs on a friend's Camry felt acceptable after turning down the dampers to nearly full soft. You can use the rebound adjustment instead to control any "wallowing" behavior. Turn down your bump damping to 2/3 soft in front and full soft in the rear and work from there, I guarantee the car will feel so much better.
As far as theory goes, critically damped for bumps is actually overdamped if you want straight-up cornering power. Bumps are a quicker, more forceful motion to damp out than body roll, thus critically damping out bumps will be over-damped for cornering. The results from datalogging AutoXers show that about 60-70% critical damping gives the fastest results on flat road, and you can go even softer for bumpy roads. "Tune to Win" is a really good resource for this info.
Finally, less suspension travel doesn't mean a harsher ride until you actually hit the bump stops. If you're not hitting the bump stop, the only thing affecting wheel travel is still the same damper and the same spring. Barring minor causes (arm angles, gas cartridge in the shock, etc.) your ride quality doesn't suffer until you're unnaturally hitting a stop.
All that aside, aesthetically your car is good dude. You can do your own alignment with a tape measure and two very flat pieces of sheetmetal.
I'd like to clear up a lot of misunderstandings going on in the last few posts... sorry for any perceived curtness.
Ride quality is determined almost strictly by the dampers for a street car on street spring rates. My car on 8k/6k springs is softer than another KW car on 6k/4k springs, and by admission of several MS3 owners, no harsher than the stock MS3 suspension -- because of very soft bump damping. Even 12k/9k springs on a friend's Camry felt acceptable after turning down the dampers to nearly full soft. You can use the rebound adjustment instead to control any "wallowing" behavior. Turn down your bump damping to 2/3 soft in front and full soft in the rear and work from there, I guarantee the car will feel so much better.
As far as theory goes, critically damped for bumps is actually overdamped if you want straight-up cornering power. Bumps are a quicker, more forceful motion to damp out than body roll, thus critically damping out bumps will be over-damped for cornering. The results from datalogging AutoXers show that about 60-70% critical damping gives the fastest results on flat road, and you can go even softer for bumpy roads. "Tune to Win" is a really good resource for this info.
Finally, less suspension travel doesn't mean a harsher ride until you actually hit the bump stops. If you're not hitting the bump stop, the only thing affecting wheel travel is still the same damper and the same spring. Barring minor causes (arm angles, gas cartridge in the shock, etc.) your ride quality doesn't suffer until you're unnaturally hitting a stop.
All that aside, aesthetically your car is good dude. You can do your own alignment with a tape measure and two very flat pieces of sheetmetal.