Mazda3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking about getting the Mazdaspeed Accessory Coilovers for my MS3. I want to know how many people did the install themselves, had dealer install, or some other shop install.

I also want to know how much it cost to install these coilovers if you didn't install them yourself. Are these a pain in the ass to install and do they require extensive knowledge about suspensions. I won't be installing them but do have a brother who is a mechanic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,466 Posts
a shop would probably charge you 4 hours to do them, so whatever the rate is.

I had my dealership install mine for free, told them purchasing the car was contingent on this, they were happy to do so and did a great job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I'f prefer the dealer to install. But man did you get a good deal. I bought my car at invoice pricing so I can't complain. Did you buy your car at invoice and still get the free install.

How long did it take for the dealer to install and did they say anything to you about warranty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
Lol my dealer quoted something like 8 hours to install ms coils, not including the astroglide lube(optional of course) :shock:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,466 Posts
some dealers are just stupid. they will quote like 30~45 minutes for changing brake pads, but 4 hours to change rotors. definitely don't let that dealer touch your car if you can avoid it. I don't know how long they took to do it, but like I said I made the purchase of the car contingent on this. I didn't get the car @ invoice but I did get 0% financing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
Coilovers are one of the easiest things you can install on the car. All it requires is some mechanical ability and reading the guides on this forum. Do it yourself and you will know your car better. Start in the morning, have a friend help if you are unsure, and make sure you have all the tools. Coilovers are even easier than changing springs because you won't have to use spring compressors. First time it should take you 2-3 hours. Rear is really easy, you can be done in half hour. Front a little more work, but still straight forward. Tricky part is getting it adjusted after the install, you can either play with it over next couple of weeks, or have a performance shop do all the tuning. I don't see a need for the dealer install since Coilovers carry Orange warranty. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,466 Posts
^^^ you have to drill out some shit in the rear end in order for these to work properly, if you are not mechanically inclined I wouldn't recommend DIY without atleast having someone else there to help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,618 Posts
[quote author=budgy link=topic=138291.msg2995414#msg2995414 date=1237133492]
^^^ you have to drill out some shit in the rear end in order for these to work properly, if you are not mechanically inclined I wouldn't recommend DIY without atleast having someone else there to help
[/quote]

What do you have to drill out? I put mine on yesterday with help from friends. Very straight forward install.

The only problem we had was with the rear knuckle. The Koni's I had in were about 1mm smaller than the KW's and when tightened, the knuckle pulled in. It just needed a slight stretch to get the KW in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,466 Posts
on the Speed 3 there is some bracket or bushing of some kind you have to drill out, you can find it on some of the walk throughs like the one Rotus did
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,466 Posts
its really not as bad as I made it out to be, but here is what I am talking about



"Now the rear shocks. You have to remove the top mount from the old shocks and drill out the bushing in the center because the new shocks’ top bolt is bigger. This is easier said than done. The bushing in the middle is pretty hard, plus since it is rubber mounted it moves around when drilling. I used a high quality drill bit in the drill press with the mount in a vice. I lubricated the drill bit. Drilling was difficult with much heating, smoke and strange noises, but successful. The hole was a little ragged and needed deburring. Now the second one; same procedure, but I would guess the drill bit took a bit of gas on the first one. This one is even more difficult and suddenly there is a strange noise, a lurch, and the center bushing separates from the rubber! Damn it looks like I let it get too hot and the rubber melted! I start calling Mazda dealers to find a replacement. It turns out the mount is not a separate part, it is included with the shock. I have to buy a whole new shock to get the mount, and of course they have no stock. So, I decide I have to make something work. I finish drilling the hole in the now separated bushing, using a new drill bit. I then fiddle and get the bushing back into place in the torn rubber of the mount. It actually looks quite well contained; the way the mount is constructed, the bushing can’t come out the bottom and there is enough rubber on the top to hold it quite securely. I am going to use it for now, and try to get a junk-yard shock to cannibalize the mount during the week. After driving it for two days, it still feels really solid, no noises so I am not going to panic about replacing it."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
It's interesting that some people had to drill there's and some didn't. Sounds like KW/Mazdaspeed might have switched to a skinner part at some point.

The only problem we had was with the rear knuckle. The Koni's I had in were about 1mm smaller than the KW's and when tightened, the knuckle pulled in. It just needed a slight stretch to get the KW in.
Koni's have a narrower lower bushing/mount than the OEM shocks do, so when you install them, the bracket on the hub squeezes in. How did you make yours wider? I'd like to know in case I switch to a different damper at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,618 Posts
Gotcha, I had to bore out the top mount for the shock too. Vice, good bit and it wasn't difficult on mine.


As for widening the knuckle, we used some scrap metal to fill it in, then torqued the hell out of the bolt to push the knuckle back out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
[quote author=budgy link=topic=138291.msg2995662#msg2995662 date=1237144829]
its really not as bad as I made it out to be, but here is what I am talking about



"Now the rear shocks. You have to remove the top mount from the old shocks and drill out the bushing in the center because the new shocks’ top bolt is bigger. This is easier said than done. The bushing in the middle is pretty hard, plus since it is rubber mounted it moves around when drilling. I used a high quality drill bit in the drill press with the mount in a vice. I lubricated the drill bit. Drilling was difficult with much heating, smoke and strange noises, but successful. The hole was a little ragged and needed deburring. Now the second one; same procedure, but I would guess the drill bit took a bit of gas on the first one. This one is even more difficult and suddenly there is a strange noise, a lurch, and the center bushing separates from the rubber! Damn it looks like I let it get too hot and the rubber melted! I start calling Mazda dealers to find a replacement. It turns out the mount is not a separate part, it is included with the shock. I have to buy a whole new shock to get the mount, and of course they have no stock. So, I decide I have to make something work. I finish drilling the hole in the now separated bushing, using a new drill bit. I then fiddle and get the bushing back into place in the torn rubber of the mount. It actually looks quite well contained; the way the mount is constructed, the bushing can’t come out the bottom and there is enough rubber on the top to hold it quite securely. I am going to use it for now, and try to get a junk-yard shock to cannibalize the mount during the week. After driving it for two days, it still feels really solid, no noises so I am not going to panic about replacing it."
[/quote]

FYI, the image you inserted doesn't correspond to what the post is talking about...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
I just installed mine. I had to drill my mounts out, but it was pretty easy. I saw some people drill them from the rubber side, I started on the metal side, and did some peck drilling to get it started, after that went right through. I recommend for installing, buy some of those wrenches they are like a box end but deep, so that you can tighten the nuts, and hold the rod still. It took me a good solid day to do the coilovers/camber links. It would take me 2 hrs max to do a full suspension on my rx7! These new cars are a pain!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,968 Posts
Yeah Mcphereson strut design stinks horrible. You have to put a quarter in the pinch bolt to keep it open so you can slide the stock strut out,
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top