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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, tell me:

1. I've never bought a brand spanking new car before, so what's with the "yay, i've reached 1,000Km's"?

2. The in-dash 6 disc (man, i nearly got the s and c in the wrong order) stacker, are the cd's loaded individually into the one slot? Is the physical stacker unit accessible? i'm only familiar with traditional stackers.

3. How sensitive are the air-bag deployers? If I do a really harsh brake in front of a chicken crossing the road, will they release?

4. I took my car on a novated lease with a residual of about $11K (incl. GST) for a 4 yr term. Reckon I could sell my car in 4 yrs for that price at the very least?

5. Aren't you just sick of all the reality TV's shows on these days? Those addicted to them need a Mazda3 in their life.

these answers will be provided by the dealer when i get my car this week, but i'm bored on this early saturday morning.
 

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1. First FREE service maybe.

2. Front loading CD stacker, all in the one slot, it stacks em inside. No the stacker unit isnt accesible like others.

3. NO heavy braking wont set them off. Thank god. I think I read somewhere its got be like 15kmh hit or something. Reading on the crash test report site, a relatively low speed crash yeilds incredible G Forces, like 28G in a 35km.h crash.

4. Should be easily possible, look after it. Im trying for the same trick with my work, to get me a new car, but its not working so far.

5. Thats why my wife and I are getting one, hopefully she wont watch so many.

Lancair
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lancair said:
4. Should be easily possible, look after it. Im trying for the same trick with my work, to get me a new car, but its not working so far.

Lancair
what's not working? mine was straighforward. getting a good deal from the dealer was the most taxing. im pretty satisfied that with my novated lease - everything is included in a set monthly cost - weekly petrol, comprehensive insurance, yearly re-registration, yearly CTP, 24 hour on road assist, 2 tyres a year, and regular maintenance. then after 4 years i simply swap my car for a brand new Mazda9 (has retractable helicopter blades for peak hour traffic convenience). :D i encourage those of you who can get a novated lease to do so, it's very cost effective (depends on a lot of things but. and lots of paper work).
 

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Whats not working is I need to get my employer to give me a heafty raise to make it work for the vehicle I want, without undue financial burden on myself and my wife, and I just got a raise 6 months ago. Im prepared to sign a long term contract and make it a raise for the next 5 years type thing but no joy yet.
PLUS I already have a work supplied vehicle (92' V6 626) which my boss says will do me fine.

Lancair
 

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We ALL need raises! :D

But if that was the case would we then get the M3? ;)
 

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Good question, I think you'd have to be very careful as you could very easily spend a whole lot more for a similar size and powered vehicle. The SP23 is really asking the tough questions to a hell of a lot of other sedan/hatches.

In the unlikely event I replaced the 3 I'd be looking for larger interior and a substantially superior vehicle. That rules out cars like the Lexus IS 300, Audi A4, I'd want a significant jump which I think would be something like the A6 3.0.

Despite what some of my work colleagues think cars such as the Lexus IS200, IS300 are nothing more than fancy looking corolla's. Neither are the standard BMW3, Audi A4, C180's particularly coveted by myself as I realise they are now "me too cars" with so many now out there on novated lease they're not even status symbols for the extra 20 thousand.

Do they offer substantive hikes in size, status, ride quality, etc, when put up against the 3? No they don't.

The Audi A4 2.0 for instance is the same size interior, considerably slower and starts at $20,000 more, sure you've got a slightly higher residual value but really....

The truth is if I received a substantial salary hike I'd not buy and A6, it would cost me a lot less to switch the Xtrail Ti leather for an X5 diesel and I think it would be a similar quality step.
 

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1. Nowadays, dealers will tell you that new cars no longer need to be broken in. I would still play it safe however, and not push the engine too hard during this first 1000kms. Do still rev it once in a while though :D .

2. Actually, you'd find that "traditional" cd stackers are probably now all replaced by in-dash front loading single slot stackers; or at the very least, in the glovebox. Can't imagine them still being located in the boot.

3. Heavy breaking will not deploy the airbags. Impact needed. With new dual-stage airbags, these will deploy "in stages" based on the severity of the impact. The ABS will probably kick in though.

5. Really sick of all the new reality shows. Are they really reality? Of course, I still enjoy the "classic" Survivor and that's just about all the "reality TV" that I watch.
 

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come to think of it, i've never seen the ABS light come on during a drive.

considering that at times i feel one or the other of the back wheels losing power, its supposed to light up right?
 

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olorin said:
come to think of it, i've never seen the ABS light come on during a drive.

considering that at times i feel one or the other of the back wheels losing power, its supposed to light up right?
I think it's a warning indicator and not actually an engaged / disengaged indicator.
 
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I think it's a warning indicator and not actually an engaged / disengaged indicator.
Yeah... That's my understanding of it also.

Only when something is wrong with it will the light illuminate.
 

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olorin, what do you mean by the back wheels losing power? Are you referring to the wheels losing traction (wheelspin)?

Note that ABS is designed to come on when it detects the wheel(s) locking up (ie skidding) and forcing it to rotate, so the car can still be steered out of harm's way. It is not traction control.
 
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Spook,

The mz3 comes with EBD which does stand for something, i just can't remeber it... Electronic braking something something..

But this technology senses when traction is lost on particular wheel when braking, and applies traction to it.
 

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Electronic Brakeforce Distribution

nono spook, what i mean is... er... imagine a scenario:

driving along a long curve, on the road there is either a metal casing/cover or a wet patch of line paint, if the other 3 wheels are on tarmac and 1 hits that patch as i am accelerating ( :D ) sometimes i feel a little loss of power to that portion of the car - its feels a little slower and i need to compensate my steering or put on more power to get the feeling right again for a proper line.

i had thought this was ABS kicking in (preventing the difference in traction for that particular wheel affecting the rest) but was wondering if the light should be coming on to indicate it was working. malebastard and steve-o have answered the question though :) (for i previously thought it was like the honda accord euro and lit up whenever it came into effect)
 

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olorin said:
i previously thought it was like the honda accord euro and lit up whenever it came into effect
Why would you want the light on the dash to light up if ABS was being activated?...I question Honda.

Scenario: You jam on the brakes because a car pulls out in front and a light comes onto the dash....so you look at the light instead of the car you should be avoiding?!?
 

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malebastard said:
But this technology senses when traction is lost on particular wheel when braking, and applies traction to it.
My understanding of EBD is that as the car is braking, EBD will sense if the car is unbalanced and distribute the brake force appropriately. For example, if you are carrying a heavy load, as you brake under normal circumstances, the front wheels is where the momentum is and the brakes will be working harder to stop the car. EBD then applies additional force to the rear brakes while lessening the force on the front ones (ie distributing the brake force). This will help prevent skidding. If the wheels do lock up, then ABS proper kicks in.

olorin said:
driving along a long curve, on the road there is either a metal casing/cover or a wet patch of line paint, if the other 3 wheels are on tarmac and 1 hits that patch as i am accelerating ( ) sometimes i feel a little loss of power to that portion of the car - its feels a little slower and i need to compensate my steering or put on more power to get the feeling right again for a proper line.
i had thought this was ABS kicking in (preventing the difference in traction for that particular wheel affecting the rest)
Given my understanding above, EBD works when the brake is applied, not on acceleration.

I'll see if I can find out a bit more about the workings of ABS and EBD.
 

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thnx for trying to find out! :) i usually try to avoid braking in this car as much as possible... gas all the way!
 

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A quick search on Google netted a host of sites with INFO about EBD.
The first few were Volvo, I found the following text in a glossary on the AUDI site.
Electronic brake-force distribution (EBD) and the anti-lock braking system (ABS), constitute one unit inasmuch as they share a number of the same parts. EBD ensures maximum braking performance at the front and rear wheels and under normal conditions it prevents the rear-end from braking away because of over-braking.

Lancair
 

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EBD is simply an ehanced form of ABS it will only work with your foot firmly on the brake and can in certain circumstances assist you by rapid and individual micro changes to the braking force on all 4 individual wheels unlike standard ABS which can be as prehistoric as being uniformily applied across the brakes on just two wheels.

EBD doesn't apply traction, it operates seperately across the 4 tires in milleseconds leading to an improvement on stopping distances by comparison to ABS.

Another words, EBD-ABS is something that should be standard in new cars of today. EBS doesn't "apply traction", it maximises available traction at computer speeds much faster than a human can manipulate the brake pad.

DSC = Dynamic stability control is also fast becoming established, it's an additional enhancement, it overides your use of the accelerator and in basic terms applies ABS if the car's CPU decides your going to fast under acceleration to take the next bend. It senses traction loss as you turn the wheels and cuts acceleration and starts applying EBD which allows you to simply put your foot to the floor and steer the car through a chicane. Obviously not entirely exciting for the car driver for the cars computer to handle both acceleration and braking with you only steering the vehicle. Personally I think it would be nice in the wet or in your first couple of weeks of driving a performance sports car such as the RX8 to use DSC, after that I'd want to have the ability to switch it on/off, regrettably some cars with DSC don't allow you to turn it off, like any "automatic" system it limits the available rev range - fun factor.
 
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