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I had a problem with my interior driver's side door handle. When I opened up the door panel, I saw that the cable had snapped. I actually managed to come up with a fix to that (I crimped a ferrule to the cable, drilled a hole in the end connector, and threaded some wire through the ferrule and connector).

Shortly after putting in this fix, I noticed that the remote door lock wasn't working. Locking the door with the interior switch wouldn't work either. I assumed my handle fix had interfered with the lock mechanism. However, it turns out that I can't see any connection between the two. It's as though the locking issue was a complete coincidence. I'm still having trouble believing this, but that's how it looks. I learned, however, that the door WILL lock using the key if I turn it two or three times. Using the remote, the interior switch tries to close, but comes about halfway back open.

** I'd appreciate input on whether this sounds like an actuator issue or something else. Does anyone have any experience on how difficult it is to replace a lock actuator? **

Because I was still poking around on the lock issue, I hadn't fully buttoned up the plastic panel that's between the metal door and the interior trim panel. Specifically, I hadn't re-attached the nuts on the bolts from the power window mechanism (mainly because I hadn't bothered to figure out what those bolts were). While I was out driving and using the window, the bolts slipped from the holes and the window went all cockeyed. I managed to get the window lined up and back in the tracks again, and it works. Mostly. However, when I use the auto-up feature, the window goes up to the top then cycles halfway back down. It does this consistently and re-opens to the same point. I lubricated the tracks. I can get the window to stay tightly shut using the manual mode.

* Do I need to recalibrate the window motor or did I manage to break a switch or something? *

Any help would be welcomed.

Thanks ... Tim
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