Mazda3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. New to the forums as you can see. I have just recently purchased a used 2006 Mazda 3i about a week and a half ago from a dealership. I am very satisfied with the car overall except for two things. One being the power steering pump whining while at idle. I have read and found that that is normal... Oh well. I dont remember it being so loud when I test drove it. The major concern I am having however is with a light rattling/grinding noise when accelerating between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Speed doesnt matter. I can be crusing at 45 mph and very lightly press the gass and hear it, or at a dead stop and slowly accelerating. If I press it a little harder the sound goes away. It's consistent, and can be heard under the same circumstances whether the car is hot or cold. The car didnt make this noise before I bought it, ugh. Anyway, the car only makes this noise when in Drive or Reverse. I have tried to duplicate the sound when sitting still in Park or neutral, but have failed. Therefore, the rattling noise only occurs while the car is in gear and under load. I have read threads that it could be heat shields, or loose bolts, or the cats... Well I havent ruled those out or had them checked but it would seem that if that were the case it would make the same noise regardless of whether I was in gear or in park/neutral. Any ideas on what this could be? It's driving me nuts knowing I just bought this thing and already having issues with it. Thanks for your time and patience. Oh by the way, I managed to work in a 30 day 1000 mile powertrain warranty with the dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
UPDATE: Well its about 88 degreees outside today. Same rattling noise as described above. Just wanted to add that I opened the hood after driving the car for about 5 minutes and listened carfeully to the motor while it was running. I noticed a very very light knocking noise that came and went every 10 -15 secs. With no particular rhythm. That would make me think its the motor mounts, but why wouldnt I hear it much louder when I revved the motor in park? Hmm

By the way, I replied to my previous post instead of editing because I couldnt add any more text to the previous post. (I know I type alot, sorry :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,739 Posts
The passenger side motor mount is a relatively common point of failure and may explain those symptoms. It's sometimes tough to tell for sure by looking at it while installed, but see if there are any dark lines of dripping oil on the frame next to / underneath that side mount. It's hydraulic, and often when it fails you can tell by the telltale leaking fluid lines. But sometimes it just separates without leaking. Definitely worth a closer look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yup, top passenger mount has ruptured. fluid everywhere. at the dealership now and they claim their 30 day 1000 mile powertrain warranty does not cover it (nissan dealership). so if i decide to go aftermarket, which mounts are the best? I dont buy anything from ebay either. i know the street unit one is good, but its $300.00 i was tryen to stay below 150. thx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,739 Posts
I would personally stick with a replacement stock mount, I don't like vibes at idle and the side mounts tend to give them. You can probably pick one up from one of our sponsor-dealers here for around $100.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well after argiung with the dealership they agreed to replace it free of charge. its a blessing. the mechanic had me drive him around to hear the rattling/grinding noises, and it so happened that one time out of a million i could not get the car the make the sound. regardless though, he knew the mount was shot and the the mechanic said they had to order the part and that it would be in thursday. in the meantime, he also said that it would be safe to continue to drive the car until then. well i personally am trying to drive it as little as possible. i will report back after thursday for anyone who is interested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well they fixed the car Friday. Decent Service. I dropped the car off at the dealership round 8:30 am. They took me to college and picked me up two hours later. Car was fixed. Drove car home and I no longer heard the grinding/ rattling noise. At least until late that evening after the car had time to cool off. I could tell a difference in the overall amount of vibrations, which were much less than before. However, as it stands, the grinding noise still exists. Starting to think it's the transmission. I have about 9 days left in their 30 day 1000 mile powertrain warranty. Hopefully someone can suggest something based off of what I noticed tonight. I was driving and paying extra close attention to the grinding noise and when it occured. This is what I would do. Accelerate until about 40 mph, let off the throttle. Then lightly press the throttle and hold it at 2,000 RPM's Then about a second or two later I noticed the RPM's would drop to about 1,500 - 1,600 Rpms and the grinding noise would start and continue until I let off the gas. This noise always occurs only around this RPM range. I was in 4th gear during this "procedure" in automatic mode. (Auto tranny) I repeated this process at least 3 times with same exact results. Now im starting to worry. Anyone have any suggestions? Keep in mind that this grinding noise also occurs in 1st and 2nd gear when slowly accelerating (about 1800 RPM), and ALWAYS stops as soon as I let off the gas. I would really appreciate it. Thanks. (I will do some more "testing" tomorrow.)

Derek
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I took the bottom plastic splash guard off. Sound is still coming from the car. (Sounds like the passenger side of engine bay). My next idea was to replace the belts and flush the Automatic transmission fluid. Transmisison fluid is a light brown color so I know it needs to be flushed. Wondering whether or not it would be best to flush it with a machine (through the dealer) or drain/fill method... Car has 68k miles on it. One other question. The only way I could pinpoint this grinding noise is to raise the front end up where the tires can spin free and have someone lightly press the throttle while in gear while I listen around in the engine bay for the noise. Could doing this damage the transmission in any way? Bad Idea, Good idea? Thanks for the replies. 6 Days left in my powertrain warranty :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,739 Posts
My girlfriend's auto tranny sedan was making a really horrible grinding noise sporadically, which I thought sounded like a pretty bad internal problem... but it turned out, the front passenger-side wheel well plastic, where it attaches to the main underbody splash shield, had been fastened onto the main splash shield incorrectly (on top of it instead of below it) and was just rubbing against the A/C compressor pulley. I disconnected it, manhandled it around into position in the correct order so there was clearance between it and the pulley, and no more noise. Kind of a longshot that you're having the same problem, but worth looking into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Did you ever find out what the problem was? Was your transmission the cause of this rattle/grinding sound?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Sounds like my idler tensioner noise.
It sounds like the engine is pinging from cheap gas. Only does it at low rpms with light throttle pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I still wouldn't rule out exhaust heat shield or cat rattle. You mentioned it doesn't do this in park or neutral? That's exactly how exhaust rattles work. Until there is a load on the engine you won't get the right frequency going through the exhaust. Sounds stupid simple, but take a rubber mallet and tap the exhaust system and see if any thing sounds loose. If not, at least that is ruled out. All my 3's are manual trans so i cant help you with any trans noises, but i sure hope for your sake its not that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have this light radling noise as well, Have had it for some time and it started doing it out of know were. Strange how it only does it at low rpm's when in drive. On another forum I found this "on the passenger side of the car check the bearing in the middle of your cv shaf, its bolted to the engine" I might give that a look. This is an odd issue, wounder if it is typical for 3s around this amount of miles? I have about 58,500. I started at around 56 though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have a 2008 2.3L Mazda 3 5-speed manual trans 16,000 miles hearing the same problems at 1800 - 2000 rpms under load. Its sounds like pinging / a gerbil running in it's cage. Noise only happens when giving it gas (under load), when letting off the gas, noise goes away.
Also, once rpms go over 2000, noise goes away. Speed does not matter, its rpm range.
1st gear does not make this noise, all other gears do. It is more noticeable when engine is cold, if I drive for an 1hr or more, noise is almost gone.
I put the E-brake on and loading engine in 3rd gear at the rpm. This did not produce the noise at all.

Car is under warranty still, and the dealer ship clams this is normal (nature of the beast and is coming within the engine is was told)
I do not believe this. I have tried different gas station used different octane with no change. pulled plastic guard off bottom side engine, looked for lose shields etc.. no luck yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
I'd love to know the source of this sound as well. My car (2007 2.0 4 speed ATX) currently has 50k mi on it and it has done this since about 13k mi with the noise gradually getting worse. Same exact symptoms: rattle during acceleration under load at 1500-2000rpms. It started out only being obvious in 4th gear, but now I can hear it almost anytime under these engine load conditions, including starting out from a stop (incredibly annoying).

For me it seems to be at least partially fuel-related, because I can sometimes fill up and it goes away. I can then go back to the same station a week later and the sound returns almost instantly. I've tried every gas station around town with the same result. Putting dry gas in seems to fix it as far as I can tell, but I'd rather not have to pour a bottle of that in at every fill-up. It's also external temperature related, with the sound being much less pronounced or even disappearing when it's at least in the mid 60s.

I replaced the belt tensioner with the Gates model from NAPA and that was not it. I took it into the dealer ages ago when it first appeared and they claimed to be unable to hear it. They told me to try a higher octane gas, which I did for a tank and it changed nothing.

I just live with the fact that I have a car that sounds like a rattle trap around town. It's definitely the most annoying part about the car, followed by the cheap paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Stock Issues / Re: Belt Chirping Sound in Overdrive at low RPMS (moved from Speed3 Forums)
« on: March 09, 2011, 08:09:16 am »
I changed my idler pulley for $20 from auto zone. That made the tensioner rattle more. I removed the tensioner and submerged it in oil for several hours. After several more hours of draining the oil, reinstalling the pulley, and the tensioner, it made much less noise. It must be the pivot point or the spring is rubbing itself that creates this noise. Going to live with it for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello all. New to the forums as you can see. I have just recently purchased a used 2006 Mazda 3i about a week and a half ago from a dealership. I am very satisfied with the car overall except for two things. One being the power steering pump whining while at idle. I have read and found that that is normal... Oh well. I dont remember it being so loud when I test drove it. The major concern I am having however is with a light rattling/grinding noise when accelerating between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Speed doesnt matter. I can be crusing at 45 mph and very lightly press the gass and hear it, or at a dead stop and slowly accelerating. If I press it a little harder the sound goes away. It's consistent, and can be heard under the same circumstances whether the car is hot or cold. The car didnt make this noise before I bought it, ugh. Anyway, the car only makes this noise when in Drive or Reverse. I have tried to duplicate the sound when sitting still in Park or neutral, but have failed. Therefore, the rattling noise only occurs while the car is in gear and under load. I have read threads that it could be heat shields, or loose bolts, or the cats... Well I havent ruled those out or had them checked but it would seem that if that were the case it would make the same noise regardless of whether I was in gear or in park/neutral. Any ideas on what this could be? It's driving me nuts knowing I just bought this thing and already having issues with it. Thanks for your time and patience. Oh by the way, I managed to work in a 30 day 1000 mile powertrain warranty with the dealer.
Did you ever figure out what the grinding noise was??
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top