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Discussion Starter #1
if if change out the speakers but keep my stock HU will I notice a difference in sound?? I would just upgrade the door speakers.. I dont even see a need to change out the tweeters because the highs I think sound great.. But the mids just suck IMO.. I dont want to amp any of my door speakers.. So I am really just looking for suggestions on replacement door speakers that will be powered ONLY by the stock HU... Or if it would just be a waste of money...

Thanks
 

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Focal Access 165 A1 (6.5 inch round) ~ about $200
or any speaker at 93 db @ 2.83 volts / 90 db @ 1 watt. (or better) even 1 db less is not good enough.

Just replace the fronts, and turn off the rears. It will sound better that way because you have a coherent stereo image with just two sources. Adding a source behind you just smears out the stereo image. See recent posts where I explain why this is so. (Just search on GeeWhizBang).

There is a whole bunch of people posting contradictory stuff here about wanting to "fill" the sound in the back. Even if you end up agreeing with them, it is pretty easy to just replace the fronts first and see if you like the results. It isn't any more work at all to replace the rears later if you aren't satisfied.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wow that was a little more than I was wanting to spend lol :)

is there anything that is less than $100 that would sound better than stock or should I just keep what I have??
 

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i'm in the same position as yourself...i am absolutely set on not changing the HU, but with most of the speakers out there, they'll need some additional power, so now i'm looking at the possiblity of adding an amp as well....i really wanted to keep costs low. I'm not looking for competition grade parts. Just better overall quality and just a tad more bass...i don't need to be shaking the windows on the car next to me.

pretty much any of the decent component speakers out there will out perform the stockers, but comes the issue of whether we are putting enough power to them or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
[quote author=doughboyr6 link=topic=65919.msg1129999#msg1129999 date=1167786908]
i'm in the same position as yourself...i am absolutely set on not changing the HU, but with most of the speakers out there, they'll need some additional power, so now i'm looking at the possiblity of adding an amp as well....i really wanted to keep costs low. I'm not looking for competition grade parts. Just better overall quality and just a tad more bass...i don't need to be shaking the windows on the car next to me.

pretty much any of the decent component speakers out there will out perform the stockers, but comes the issue of whether we are putting enough power to them or not.
[/quote]

see i am set on not changing my stock HU and I am also set on not adding another amp.. I have added one for my sub but I dont want to add another LOC then add in either a larger or another amp... I just want to get a speaker that the stock HU will be able to power...
 

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When I get around to getting some really good speakers up front, I'll probably amp them and I plan on getting a stealthbox someday

Should I get a 4 channel amp (1-2 for fronts and 3-4 bridged for sub) or separate amps? I think about 200w RMS would be enough sub for me.
 

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I did what some of you want to do...I kept the stock HU, and upgraded the speakers. I installed Infinity 5.25" Reference components in the front doors, and 6x8 Reference two-ways to the rear doors. The factory HU powers them just fine, and with some tweaking to the bass/treble controls, they sound pretty darn good. I added an Infinity BassLink sub to fill out the low end. Any speakers you install would sound better with an aftermarket amp powering them, but the factory HU is indeed capable of powering speakers with relatively high sensitivity ratings (like the Infinitys).
 

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Unfortunately $180 or so is about the minimum to be worth the bother, especially if you want to avoid replacing the HU. All of the cheap speakers with good efficiency ratings I tried really were howlers, with nasty midrange peaks, little highs and flabby, weak bass.

A lot of very good-sounding aftermarket speakers are LESS efficient than the OEM speakers, and will actually make the sound worse, because the stock HU only has a rather puny 18 watts RMS output to drive them. You have to limit your choices to speakers with high efficiency and good sound.

The Infinity speakers are well liked and a lot of vendors carry them and have very good efficiency. My Focals are hard to find in the US, but I would encourage you to see if you can find a vendor to demo them and others.

I still want to make the point again that you can get by with just the fronts, which gives you a lot more budget. Just turn the rears off.

I demoed my car to some co-workers today and one of them wanted to know if I had a 6 speaker system. And he was in BACK! It sounds that good, especially now that I've added a fabulous sub, which you can do later when (or if) you want to afford it.
 

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doing the e-bay thing you can still pick up good speakers for about $100. I got a component set of 6-1/2" Alpines for the front, and 5x7's for the rear.

not flamin' but the back fill is well worth it. the rear speakers and the ability to fade it to your liking makes a big difference.

but don't waste your time not amping the speakers....everything....highs & lows come thru much better. The bass response with an underpowered woofer isn't even worth mentioning.

with a good setup, you don't really need to go the subwoofer route if you are cash strapped. far more bang for the buck getting some good door speakers and an amp.....of course, as sub can always be added later.

my point though...your best money spent is on the door speakers and an amp. even if u just get a 4ch amp and power just 2 new component speakers, then add as your budget allows, you'll be far more satisfied than trying to do it all on the cheap first time out of the gate
 

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There is nothing wrong with good treated paper, especially if it is coated to protect it from moisture and to improve damping. Paper cones have a very desireable combination of damping and good stiffness, but also some controllable flexibility.

The OEM speakers suck because they are just plain flimsy and cheap. They even have some quality features, like the neodymium magnet and the fiber-filled ABS frame, but that is to save weight, not make it sound better. I doubt that the voice coil stays centered over the gap when pushed even moderately loud because of the oval shape, the rather poor quality surround, and somewhat floppy soft-paper cone. Chances are the magnetic gap is very short too (again to save weight), so the speaker has really poor magnetic control on anything except very small excursions. They are designed to appeal to automotive engineers looking to save 10 ounces of valuable weight and the poor sound is not something they care about.

My home audio speakers are plastic-coated paper and sound fabulous.

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