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It's probably something pretty similarly easy, if not the same. We just need a good Shop Manual or somebody to explain the wiring diagram of the fuse box including which fuses supply accessory power, and we should be set.
 

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this would be great! i used to love the 10 minute delay on power that my deville gave me. anyone got time to look into this??
 

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I'd love to be able to operate the windows and sunroof with the key in the ACC position. Any electricians here with some tips on how to go about doing this? Perhaps just jumping fuses and such, or more involved? A timed delay would be nice too... ah too many years in a VW have spoiled me.
 

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Moved to Electronics..

It wouldnt be a hard mod at all. Dig into the drivers kick panel till you find the wire that shows ignition. Cut that wire and send the side thats going into the door to a 12v source (at the ignition harness) and make sure you fuse it. Since we dont have a fusebox inside, you can try to find that wire in the engine bay.

vB
 

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vaBooM said:
Moved to Electronics..

It wouldnt be a hard mod at all. Dig into the drivers kick panel till you find the wire that shows ignition. Cut that wire and send the side thats going into the door to a 12v source (at the ignition harness) and make sure you fuse it. Since we dont have a fusebox inside, you can try to find that wire in the engine bay.

vB
No No, thats incorrect. If you were to do that.. everything that is on the ignition would stay on.

You need to find the fuse that controls power windows, take a wire from a Constant Source (something like lights) and place the wire from the constant to the fuse of the Power windows, make sure you place a fuse in between, and you are good to go!
 

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Guess,
I think I follow what you're describing, but please, for the love of us idiots (so we don't go shorting out our cars!)... How to! How to!
 

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As I have already dug into my inside fuse box, I can say with some authority that the Protege fix will NOT work on the Mazda 3.

The Mazda 3 interior fuse block is not a traditional wire-and-socket fuse block. It is a triple-stacked printed circuit board with the fuse sockets soldered into the board. If the fuse space is empty, then there is no socket on the board to plug anything into.

The reason I know all this is because I was annoyed that my cigarette lighter only worked with key-on power and I was not able to charge my cell phone while not driving the vehicle. I took apart the fuse box thinking I was just going to move a couple wires around and fix the problem.
Boy, was ai surprised when I found out what Mazda had in store for me!

Long story short, I was still able to wire my lighter for constant 12v but it involved cutting, splicing and inserting an inline fuse.

The same could be done with the power windows but I wouldn't recommend it for anyone without some electrical knowledge. You could really fubar your car if you did it wrong.
 

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Unfortunately I dont have my car back yet (because of the engine) but I do have a loaner Mazda 3. I just took a pic of the fuse box underneath the Passenger Glove Box.

This is what you need to get:

2x Wires with 30AMP inline fuses (available at any stereo shop)

Here is what you need to remember.

Red - + Constant
Black - - Ground
Yellow - + Ignition

You need to connect the wires with inline fuses from Point 3 on this picture to Point 1 and 2. Point 1 is fuse Block 55 and Point 2 is fuse Block 56.

After you do that, your good to go.



Note: You will have fuses in block 55 and 56 as my Loaner Mazda 3 has no power windows.
 
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