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I ordered a set of aftermarket rims that should be arriving sometime next week. The bore diameter of the new rims is 73.1. I'm just curious if anyone is running a lug centric setup without adapter rings to increase the size of the hub?

Are the centering rings necessary?
 

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it's possible to be hubcentric without hub rings, but it takes more care when mounting the wheels and tightening the lug nuts, assuming the lugs match the wheels (tapered vs acorn)
 

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We run 73mm bore wheels on both our 3's without centering rings, and have never had any problems... perfectly smooth ride, and easy to mount. You just have to pay attention and make sure the lugs are centered in the holes when tightening them. As long as you're pretty close, they center themselves when you torque them down all the way.
 

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Hi,
Some of the comments above suggest that one can get the wheel center without a hub-ring ? Anyone tested @ 120 km/hr on a highway to see the difference ?
Some of the responses above suggest that there are rubbish on the internet that one should read widely.

Hub rings are a MUST (after market wheels are UN-likely to be 67.1mm @ the wheel-hub) and Hub rings must be a perfect fit.
Also the material should be metal (NOT plastic) as it need to support the weight of your car, see link below.

How do i know... I stuffed up.
Good luck.

Broken wheel studs - why spigot / hub rings are so important with aftermarket wheels.
 

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It depends on the wheels and lug nuts. If they have tapered or spherical lug seats, all the rings do is make it slightly easier to heave the wheel onto the hub before starting the nuts, and plastic is fine. Better, in fact, because plastic won't seize in the wheel bore or onto the hub. The nuts will center the wheel perfectly, as long as you tighten them progressively in the proper sequence. With flat seats (are those still being made?) metal rings are essential, but are not as accurate as a tapered seat. If you don't use the lugs that came with the wheels, you're on your own.
 
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