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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i keep seeing people saying that they have to bore out the center of non-hubcentric wheels so that they can fit them. and as far as i know, its hard to find a shop that is willing to do that and i know its not going to be cheap. plus the mechanic has to be a professional and know what he/she is doing and has to be VERY precise. if not, a LOT more money is going to be spent. i think i have a solution to those who are weary in running diff. oem, aftermarket, and just wheels that arent hub centric in general.

Problems that i see with boring the hub are
1)finding a shop that is willing to do it
2)finding a shop that will do a good job and not fuck up
3)finding a shop that will do it for a good price
4)very little room for error, if shop fucks it up, the rim will not balance correctly and is a peice of garbage now
5)if rim does not have much material to bore out, it could be potentially be dangerous


Solution
my last set of wheels had a very small hub bore which could not fit over the hub on the car. which in turn, because the wheel didnt sit flat on the hub, caused the lug nuts to loosen and reverse out by themselves. so i started thinking of solutions to my problem. since the hub is not sitting flat, i came up with an idea of putting a tiny spacer on the wheel. just enough to push the hub of the wheel away from car hub so they do not touch each other. soo although the wheels are still not hub centric, they WILL allow the wheels to sit flat above the car's hub allowing one to run what ever wheel WITHOUT having to worry about finding people and paying a LOT just to bore out the wheels just so you can run them.

Price of said solution:
soo instead of paying god knows how much on hub boring, you can just buy tiny spacers and hub centric rings if you want.

and to see how cheap this solution is, i personally bought my 3mm spacers for 5 bucks each. i have no idea how much they run else where around the country. but for 20 bucks i could run the sti wheels that someone on here paid like 250+ to run.

DONT LET HUB BORE SIZES DETER YOU FROM RUNNING A CERTAIN WHEEL!

and

DONT PICK WHEELS TO FIT YOUR CAR! PICK WHEELS AND MAKE THEM FIT!!!

this was my solution around this issue. may not be for everyone. just wanted to share my cost-effective solution for an issue as simple as hub bore.

NOTES:
-3-5mm spacers are too small to need to be hub centric

WARNING/REMINDER:
-when choosing wheels, remember to choose the correct lugnuts according to the lug holes. so they will hold correctly.



if anyone sees a flaw in my logic/experience please let me know!
 

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so the hub is not going into the wheel, just touching the spacer to keep it flat, right? wouldn't that be too much stress for the wheel studs since all the vertical weight is on them now, especially when hitting bumps and whatnot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes the hub is not going into the wheel. its just sitting barely above the hub due to small spacer. and i know if a large spacer was used like a 15-30mm (nonhubcentric) then there would be more stress on the studs but for hub bore issues only a small spacer is needed to clear the hub and 3-5mm spacer shouldnt be much more stress if any at all than before. 3mm is too small to cause any problems imo. lol jsut go and measure 3-5mm. its not a lot at all.

nothing to worry about. ive been using these spacers on the car for a little while now and havent run into any problems. driven all over texas already. my buddy has been using the bolt on spacers (25mm) for like a year+. and i know countless people who drift on large spacers. no problems anywhere. people have been running spacers for a looong time. i havent heard of any studs breaking due to spacers. ive heard more studs breaking from torquing lug nuts too much.
 

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hey, are u still using spacer to fit smaller hub wheels? How's good so far? I'm planning to buy a set of wheel, unfortunately it has smaller hub than my 10 mz3's hub
 

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hub-centric wheels are designed to carry the weight of the car on the hub portion of the wheel. the studs and lugs only take part of the force generated from accelerating and braking.

google the difference between hub-centric and lug-centric. once you learn the difference you will see why you need to have the proper hub size.
 

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[quote author=Verto link=topic=161800.msg3855548#msg3855548 date=1289427771]
hub-centric wheels are designed to carry the weight of the car on the hub portion of the wheel. the studs and lugs only take part of the force generated from accelerating and braking.

google the difference between hub-centric and lug-centric. once you learn the difference you will see why you need to have the proper hub size.
[/quote]

what if I use a hub-centric ring to lower my hub bore's size? I've used hub rings to fit large wheel before.
 

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hub-centric rings transfer the load, so i see no problem with them. of course this is assuming they are aluminum or steel.
 

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definitely a good idea. as long as you stay hubcentric with the spacer i see no problem. would love to hear from some other people who have done this and their expeinces.
 

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can you purchase adapter style spacers? the back side of the spacer is our 67.1 HB and then it top of the spacer have the STi's HB? would that be cost effective? is that possible with such a small spacer?
 

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[quote author=sumthaiguy link=topic=161800.msg3434916#msg3434916 date=1259497793]
i keep seeing people saying that they have to bore out the center of non-hubcentric wheels so that they can fit them. and as far as i know, its hard to find a shop that is willing to do that and i know its not going to be cheap. plus the mechanic has to be a professional and know what he/she is doing and has to be VERY precise. if not, a LOT more money is going to be spent. i think i have a solution to those who are weary in running diff. oem, aftermarket, and just wheels that arent hub centric in general.

Problems that i see with boring the hub are
1)finding a shop that is willing to do it
2)finding a shop that will do a good job and not fuck up
3)finding a shop that will do it for a good price
4)very little room for error, if shop fucks it up, the rim will not balance correctly and is a peice of garbage now
5)if rim does not have much material to bore out, it could be potentially be dangerous


Solution
my last set of wheels had a very small hub bore which could not fit over the hub on the car. which in turn, because the wheel didnt sit flat on the hub, caused the lug nuts to loosen and reverse out by themselves. so i started thinking of solutions to my problem. since the hub is not sitting flat, i came up with an idea of putting a tiny spacer on the wheel. just enough to push the hub of the wheel away from car hub so they do not touch each other. soo although the wheels are still not hub centric, they WILL allow the wheels to sit flat above the car's hub allowing one to run what ever wheel WITHOUT having to worry about finding people and paying a LOT just to bore out the wheels just so you can run them.

Price of said solution:
soo instead of paying god knows how much on hub boring, you can just buy tiny spacers and hub centric rings if you want.

and to see how cheap this solution is, i personally bought my 3mm spacers for 5 bucks each. i have no idea how much they run else where around the country. but for 20 bucks i could run the sti wheels that someone on here paid like 250+ to run.

DONT LET HUB BORE SIZES DETER YOU FROM RUNNING A CERTAIN WHEEL!

and

DONT PICK WHEELS TO FIT YOUR CAR! PICK WHEELS AND MAKE THEM FIT!!!

this was my solution around this issue. may not be for everyone. just wanted to share my cost-effective solution for an issue as simple as hub bore.

NOTES:
-3-5mm spacers are too small to need to be hub centric

WARNING/REMINDER:
-when choosing wheels, remember to choose the correct lugnuts according to the lug holes. so they will hold correctly.



if anyone sees a flaw in my logic/experience please let me know!
[/quote]

Alright so i bought some nice zauber wheels last november and i test fitted them today and the wheel's hub bore in too small. is this what happened with the ssr wheels you had?
edit: the bolts dont reach. don't know what to do. i need help lol
 

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LOL, did you really buy wheels without checking if the fit? Sounds to me like you have the wrong bolt pattern for the wheels, its supposed to be 5x114.3. If you are saying that the wheels do go over the studs but doesnt sit flat against the hub because its the wrong bore size, then you can just run spacers like this thread states.
 

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[quote author=mike mz3 link=topic=161800.msg3966276#msg3966276 date=1300397521]
LOL, did you really buy wheels without checking if the fit? Sounds to me like you have the wrong bolt pattern for the wheels, its supposed to be 5x114.3. If you are saying that the wheels do go over the studs but doesnt sit flat against the hub because its the wrong bore size, then you can just run spacers like this thread states.
[/quote]

no no the bolt pattern is good lol. they fit, but like you said, it just dosn't sit flat againt the hub. what kind of spacers do i need?
 

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Sumthaiguy said you could use as little as 3mm, I have used 5mm spacers before and it left ~2mm of the hubcentric part sticking out. Those extra 2mm wouldn't catch the hubcentric ring I tried to use so I know for sure you are good with 5mm.
 

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[quote author=mike mz3 link=topic=161800.msg3966749#msg3966749 date=1300454203]
Sumthaiguy said you could use as little as 3mm, I have used 5mm spacers before and it left ~2mm of the hubcentric part sticking out. Those extra 2mm wouldn't catch the hubcentric ring I tried to use so I know for sure you are good with 5mm.
[/quote]

where did you buy the spacers from? Here in canada, it's pretty hard to find any. Is this any good?

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/mazda-3/wheel-spacers/

edit: how about these? http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=709
 

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[quote author=mike mz3 link=topic=161800.msg3966749#msg3966749 date=1300454203]
Sumthaiguy said you could use as little as 3mm, I have used 5mm spacers before and it left ~2mm of the hubcentric part sticking out. Those extra 2mm wouldn't catch the hubcentric ring I tried to use so I know for sure you are good with 5mm.
[/quote]

So are you saying can I use a 3-5mm without the ring and still be hub centric? Also would 5mm spacers require longer lugs?

I have the same problem as most on here, I have a Saturn Ion 2 QC, bought mini cooper wheels, because the lug pattern fit. Didn't realize the bore was 1mm too small. I like the spacer Idea, but i'm worried about putting undue stress on the lugs and wheel bearings.
For extra cash I could get adapter style hub centric spacers around 10-20mm. Do you think these would be more or less stable?
 

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^No with the 5mm spacer, my hubcentric ring wouldn't center on the ~2mm of the hub that was left sticking out. I wouldn't worry about the added stress on the studs with the 5mm spacer. I used to think the same way, but if you take a look at the Eibach 5mm spacer kit, the spacer doesn't have a hubcentric lip, it is just centered on the hub with the 67.1mm inner diameter in the center. The kit only comes with extended studs, which isn't necessary at 5mm, but it definately doesn't hurt. If you look at Eibachs 10mm or greater spacer kits, they do have hubcentric lips so I believe it is needed then.

mazdaroundme, the ones you posted are good, I got mine off ebay, its just a 5mm spacer with a 67.1mm inner diameter so that it stays centered on the hub which reduces the chance of vibration.
 

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But isn't this true:
spacers are a bad idea for several reasons. this car uses a 4 lug hub, 4 lugs don't have much strength to begin with, then adding a spacer further stresses the lugs. also, taking a hub centric wheel, and using it as a lug centric wheel, you stress it in a way it isn't meant to be stressed. either one of these things will quite possibly lead to failure of either component. smaller overall diameter is only good for messing up the odometer and speedometer reading, nothing else. the OEM tire size is best, and still provides improved handling over the OEM 15's.
 

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Yea, it is true but most people won't mind when running 5mm or less spacers it seems, maybe someone else can chime in on their experiences. And like I said about the Eibach 5mm spacers, Ichibas are the same design at 5mm. They only get the hubcentric lip in the 10mm and larger spacers. Our car is actually 5 bolt too, you said 4 in your post :eek:
 
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