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Spark plug replacement has to be the easiest thing you could ever tackle on any vehicle.

JUST DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE SPARK PLUGS OR YOU REALLY MESSED UP.

Go to your local auto store or Sears/ Home Depot and buy a spark plug socket and a 3 inch or longer extension for your preferably half inch socket wrench. All of that should be like 10 dollars.

As per spark plug recommendation i don't know about cars newer than 2008, but im sure its on here somewhere.
 

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How to avoid cross threading

Thanks for the response Whysoserious11311. Here's a naive question. While I understand the problem with cross threading, isn't it just as simple as screwing the spark plug in by turning it the right way? The original post says to insert your new plug by turning it counterclockwise, so I'm assuming I remove the old plugs by turning them clockwise. Isn't it as simple as just remembering this? I guess righty-tighty lefty-loosey doesn't apply here?
 

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Um, no. Right to tighten and Left to loosen is correct for spark plugs. I'm not sure why the OP suggests to start the new plugs by going counter-clockwise (it's written weird). Just start them by hand and turn clockwise to tighten the new plugs. Cross-threading refers to the plugs not lining up straight with the hole when they are screwed in.
 

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Um, no. Right to tighten and Left to loosen is correct for spark plugs. I'm not sure why the OP suggests to start the new plugs by going counter-clockwise (it's written weird). Just start them by hand and turn clockwise to tighten the new plugs. Cross-threading refers to the plugs not lining up straight with the hole when they are screwed in.
Always turn something counter clockwise when threading in to wait for the hop to know you're getting a clean initial threading.

That's why you do that.
Otherwise for all you know you could be going in at an angle, and even by threading by hand can do damage.
 

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Just replaced my spark plugs for the first time on my 2007 Hatchback (2.3). I'm at 78,000 miles. There was oil on the spark end of the spark plug on the far left one (looking from the front of the car). There was nothing when you remove the coil pack and only on the tip end visible when you take the spark plug out. What can this mean? I am new to car maintenance but am trying to get my feet wet. Oil does not appear to be burning (no smoke and levels are good between OCI (7500 synthetic). I notice no issues when driving the car. I tried searching but didn't have much luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Always turn something counter clockwise when threading in to wait for the hop to know you're getting a clean initial threading.

That's why you do that.
Otherwise for all you know you could be going in at an angle, and even by threading by hand can do damage.
That's exactly what I meant in the original post. Yeah, I probably could have explained it better.
 

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DrWebster I want to thank you for this excellent write up, I changed my plugs yesterday following your instructions and everything was a breeze. Idk why I was being such a pussy about it. Took me at most 30mins, spark plugs were perfectly gap and I torqued them to 9lbs, after the install my idle was so smooth man, it seriously felt like the engine was off
Just one question, what type of torque wrench do you have? I have the old school needle one, are the click ones more accurate?

Once again, Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
DrWebster I want to thank you for this excellent write up, I changed my plugs yesterday following your instructions and everything was a breeze. Idk why I was being such a pussy about it. Took me at most 30mins, spark plugs were perfectly gap and I torqued them to 9lbs, after the install my idle was so smooth man, it seriously felt like the engine was off
Just one question, what type of torque wrench do you have? I have the old school needle one, are the click ones more accurate?

Once again, Thanks!
I have a Husky click-style torque wrench. Some swear by the "beam" (needle) style, saying they're more accurate, but those won't prevent you from overtorquing if you aren't looking at the gauge.
 

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torque wrench required?

DrWebster I want to thank you for this excellent write up, I changed my plugs yesterday following your instructions and everything was a breeze. Idk why I was being such a pussy about it. Took me at most 30mins, spark plugs were perfectly gap and I torqued them to 9lbs, after the install my idle was so smooth man, it seriously felt like the engine was off
Just one question, what type of torque wrench do you have? I have the old school needle one, are the click ones more accurate?

Once again, Thanks!
Ok, NooB question here. I'm psyching myself up for this job, just got my plugs per the previous specs on the OEMs. I bought a socket and extension. I don't have a torque wrench. I assume that is a requirement here, i.e. I shouldn't tighten it until it feels tight? I need to go buy a torque wrench and make sure I tighten it to the stated specs?

Probably a dumb question but I just wanted to make sure. Never done this before.
 

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Ok, NooB question here. I'm psyching myself up for this job, just got my plugs per the previous specs on the OEMs. I bought a socket and extension. I don't have a torque wrench. I assume that is a requirement here, i.e. I shouldn't tighten it until it feels tight? I need to go buy a torque wrench and make sure I tighten it to the stated specs?

Probably a dumb question but I just wanted to make sure. Never done this before.
Make it snug then 1/4 turn and ur fine.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 

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Gotta Feel it man.... use the force. I use a beam type torque wrench, it was like $15 at sears. But honestly I think you could do it with out it, seat the plugs hand tighten, turn with ratchet till slightly tighter then 1/4 turn and your done
 

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Ok, thanks to the help on this forum, I just replaced my plugs. I bought the OEM plugs as suggested. My plugs were at 109,000 miles, so a little overdue. They were definitely looking old. It took be about an hour, as I had some difficulty getting the bolts that secure the coil packs out. My wrench was too big to get in that small space, and my 8mm socket wasn't deep enough to fit. Eventually got them though. After that it was snap. If anyone is reluctant, trust me, if I can handle this so can you.
 

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Great post, car had rough idle and figured plugs could stand changing at 6yrs old and 52k miles. Changing went easy. However, on test drive it died twice in a 10 mile city drive, once in motion and once at idle. I did disconnect negative terminal when I changed the plugs so do you think it is just relearning idle? I then let it sit idling for half hour and drove it good for another 2 miles so I'm hoping it is good now. Thanks for any insight.
 

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2010wolf, fyi If your car's throttle body has not been cleaned...you might want to check it. When you disconnected the battery the ecu relearns the fuel trims and one unfortunate thing is that it thinks your car's throttle body is clean. This can cause rough idle.
 

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Thanks, it is running better with no shutting off in two days of driving. Does seem to rev up a bit at idle sometimes so I'll check the throttle body next week.
 

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My 2011 Mazda 3S 2.5L uses the NKG 3811-ILTR5A-13G or the newer NKG 4344 -LTR5IX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug and also NKG 90083 - LTR5BI-13 Laser Iridium Spark Plug. The 3811 last much longer (75k to 100k) then the Newer 4344 (45k to 65k). However the 4344 is less costly.by using P20 code at advanced auto i.e. $25.57 plus tax for 4 plugs.
 
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