[HouRman]

Due to a vote a while ago, I'm hosting any walkthroughs I make on my website.

POWER STEERING FLUSH WALKTHROUGH

I highly suggest anyone with over 30,000 miles to do this. My fluid looked old and had crud floating in it. The steering was feeling slightly more chunky. After the flush, it made my steering smooth like it felt like new from the factory. I turn the wheel and the tires move. You feel less resistance from old hydraulic Mercon V fluid.

I used Synthetic Mobil 1 (Mercon V approved). Only got 2 quarts which is more than enough.

I forgot to mention you have to remove the bottom skid plate. Anyone that has done their first oil change should know how to do this. If you have never changed your oil yourself, well I suggest you learn how to do that first until attempting the power steering flush.

The tiny words at the bottom of this post lists keywords to assist people that use the search button:
Power steering fluid power steering fluid drain refill mercon V MV power steering flush steering sloppy power steering bleed reservoir turn steering wheel all the way electric power steering power steering pump belt

 

[bearda]

I ran though this on Sunday at 35K miles after doing an ATF flush, and the instructions helped a lot. I was expecting to use a lot more fluid (I had bought a case of 12 quarts between the ATF and the power steering); I think I ended up using a little under a quart. I was a little surprised by the color of the fluid that came out, though (still the factory fill). I was expecting a redish color (like the ATF), but it ended up being a more translucent orange. It had plenty of specs of dirt and couple metal shavings, though, so it seems like it was time to flush it.

What is the point of putting the key in the lock position? It didn't seem like anything engaged by just putting the key in the ignition, and my wife (who was doing th wheel while I held on to the host) said the steering effort wasn't any easier than trying to turn the wheel while the key wasn't in the ignition.

Next time I do the flush I'm planning on getting a coupler and a length of hose to direct the fluid into the pan better. The hose that's there is just a little too short clear the edge of the underbody shield plastic when the flow does down to a drip. I tried the hose I had for the ATF fluid but it was a bit too small.

 

[DrWebster]

I assume you pretty much have to do this procedure with the car on jackstands? I only have a set of Rhino Ramps.

 

[bearda]

Yes, you have to turn the wheels which I wouldn't recommend on ramps. Either you're not going to be able to turn the wheel enough for it to work, or the car will fall off the ramps.

 

[DrWebster]

[quote author=bearda link=topic=117086.msg3272143#msg3272143 date=1249918056]
Yes, you have to turn the wheels which I wouldn't recommend on ramps. Either you're not going to be able to turn the wheel enough for it to work, or the car will fall off the ramps.
[/quote]

Yeah, that makes sense. I'm due for a flush; I'll need to pick up a set of jackstands then.

 

[jimp]

didn't know you could rotate the steering wheel with the ignition in the lock position, doesn't the key need to be in the "acc" position to unlock the steering wheel????

 

[DrWebster]

[quote author=jimp link=topic=117086.msg3272609#msg3272609 date=1249933780]
didn't know you could rotate the steering wheel with the ignition in the lock position, doesn't the key need to be in the "acc" position to unlock the steering wheel????
[/quote]

I'm curious about this too. HouRman, any insight?

 

[bearda]

I managed to do it. Maybe that's what putting the key in the lock position is for.

 

[TEKWATCH]

[quote author=bearda link=topic=117086.msg3272143#msg3272143 date=1249918056]
Yes, you have to turn the wheels which I wouldn't recommend on ramps. Either you're not going to be able to turn the wheel enough for it to work, or the car will fall off the ramps.
[/quote]

LOL!!! I should of read this first, I did mine on ramps and tried to turn the tires and one of my ramps went sideways, luckily I did not go far enough and was able to kick it back in place.

I did the drain and fill method and used a pump as well, I got out just about a quart of old fluid. I was at 48k miles, damn that fluid was a dark dark redish brown, really nasty.

I put the jackstands under after I almost messed up and did the turning very slowly back and forth.

Test drive felt great, very smooth, I did notice a difference, amazing what a little prevenative fluid changing can do.

I now have all my fluids drained and flushed.

Thanks for the write-up, very helpful.

I also took off my Fujita F5 intake to clean it, but it was not even dirty after 3 years, I was shocked. I have a hydroshield on it, so I did clean that.

 

[frankh21]

Flushed out my power steering fluid today and the write-up was perfect!!!

A longer hose for draining would have been less messy but otherwise it was successful, I used about 3/4 of a quart of Valvoline ATF. The old fluid was pretty dark but I could somewhat see through it. Did a bunch of U-turns and checked for leaks and everything looked good.

Thanks for the write up Hourman!!!

 

[DrWebster]

I just did the flush today, here's what I found:

--Ended up draining a little more than 1/2 quart of fluid out, between the reservoir and turning the wheels with the car on jackstands.

--I was NOT able to turn the wheels with the key in the LOCK position. I got the steering wheel turned about 1/8 turn, then the lock mechanism kept it from going any further. I wasn't willing to try to really wrestle the wheel to see if it would continue to turn, for fear I'd break the lock mechanism.

--With the key in ACC and turning the wheel back and forth slowly, I felt a weird (and somewhat unsettling) vibration through the wheel when the wheels were about halfway turned until they were all the way turned. From half-turned left, through going straight, to half-turned right the play was smooth, but from half-turn to full-turn I'd feel the vibration and hear a creaking/clunking sound.

--Don't top off the fluid reservoir with the car running, as it will shoot to above the MAX line when you turn the car off. If you bring the fluid up to MAX with the car off, the fluid level will go down to halfway between MIN and MAX when you start the car.

--After a couple test drives, I finally got the fluid level to stabilize, but I felt some "play" in the steering at very low speeds (i.e. pulling into my garage). I went on another test drive and did some more U-turns, and the play lessened. It seems to take a while for all of the bubbles etc. to bleed out of the system.

--I used some aluminum foil to shield the belts/alternator from the old fluid while it drained, and temporarily zip tied my funnel under the suction hose with my drain pan (a.k.a. Rubbermaid bin) underneath it. Worked great; didn't get any of the old fluid anywhere but in the funnel.

 

[08mazda2.0]

how does the steering really feel though. I got 20k miles on my car...early to do it but i wouldnt mind if it makes the car feel better.

 

[biking4jesus]

this looks like an awesome walk through!

i need to do this, probably when i rebleed my brakes soon.

 

[fullblown]

I do this service at work (jiffy lube lol) and really enjoy doing it because its something I can actually feel a difference in while performing. I never thought that power steering was really a fluid that needed to be worried about but when the engine is running and your steering the vehicle and all of a sudden the wheel becomes lighter, it really is brilliant!

 

[Alec trevelyan]

note: if you don't feel like going through the whole tubing/funnel thing, you can really just unclip the bottom hose and everything will come out. Eliminating unnecessary steps FTW

 

[RedRaptor]

Thanks to the OP for the walkthrough.

After reading this thread, I called up my mechanic and asked him how much it would cost to flush/fill the power steering fluild on my car. He said that this wasn't really neccessary if everything is working fine. He said colour is not an indication of how the power steering is functioning and it only means that its working fine. He's worried to break something that isn't broken.

What do you guys think?

Also, what fluild should I be using? I noticed the OP using ATF.

 

[Instant_Ocean]

Just wanted to thank the OP for this walk through. Was easy-breezy and I purged 591ml of very dark red opaque stuff. Replaced it with some M-V and now it works like a charm! Very smooth.

Thanks again!

 

[melsredmazda3]

anybody know where i can get one of those little pumps he used in his walk-through? lol..

edit: found at autozone. doing this tomorrow.

 

[IBrakeForNobody]

[quote author=DrWebster link=topic=117086.msg3332103#msg3332103 date=1253396698]
I just did the flush today, here's what I found:

--Ended up draining a little more than 1/2 quart of fluid out, between the reservoir and turning the wheels with the car on jackstands.

--I was NOT able to turn the wheels with the key in the LOCK position. I got the steering wheel turned about 1/8 turn, then the lock mechanism kept it from going any further. I wasn't willing to try to really wrestle the wheel to see if it would continue to turn, for fear I'd break the lock mechanism.

--With the key in ACC and turning the wheel back and forth slowly, I felt a weird (and somewhat unsettling) vibration through the wheel when the wheels were about halfway turned until they were all the way turned. From half-turned left, through going straight, to half-turned right the play was smooth, but from half-turn to full-turn I'd feel the vibration and hear a creaking/clunking sound.

--Don't top off the fluid reservoir with the car running, as it will shoot to above the MAX line when you turn the car off. If you bring the fluid up to MAX with the car off, the fluid level will go down to halfway between MIN and MAX when you start the car.

--After a couple test drives, I finally got the fluid level to stabilize, but I felt some "play" in the steering at very low speeds (i.e. pulling into my garage). I went on another test drive and did some more U-turns, and the play lessened. It seems to take a while for all of the bubbles etc. to bleed out of the system.

--I used some aluminum foil to shield the belts/alternator from the old fluid while it drained, and temporarily zip tied my funnel under the suction hose with my drain pan (a.k.a. Rubbermaid bin) underneath it. Worked great; didn't get any of the old fluid anywhere but in the funnel.
[/quote]

I just did this and I have the exact same problem. It's only when turning left though. From about 1/2 way turned left to all the way left, there is a vibration in the steering wheel and I can see the tires physically shaking back and fourth (this is with the car up on jack stands and the engine idling).

I must have turned the wheel from all the way left to all the way right about 50 times with the engine idling, and the vibration lessened a little, but not much.

When going for a test drive, it just feels like a subtle vibration through the steering wheel. So I guess I'll just leave it be and see if it goes away after a few more U-turns.

 

[davey6693]

Thankyou for the writeup. This evacuated 600 ml from my system of dark red old fluid. I had some Mobiil 1 fluid left from a previous ATF change and things should be healthy from here. This is very easy to do, takes less than 10 minutes.