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Your crankshaft position sensor is different than mine. I guess that was another change in 06. I did a little researching, 04 and 05 models used a sensor like this



The mounting arms are too short for the Ford timing cover holes. The position of the sensor is also a little farther away when you put on the 2.3 crankshaft pulley too. I remember someone ran into problems trying to mount the 04-05 sensor on the Ford engine without changing the timing cover. 06 cars are seriously easier to swap.

I'm not sure what that little sensor on the timing cover is either, but I installed it the same way you did. The little metal tab in the slot with a bolt through it. My 2.5 engine had an idler pulley there I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Here is how the crank pos sensor lined up on the Ford timing cover:

How cam timing lined up before and after crank pulley install:

What sensor is this and is it installed correctly? (I am not 100% sure that went on right)

Thousands of shavings this size in my oil pan:
the crank sensor looks like is aligned properly (and as antics says. Its diffenerent from ours), along with your cams. That other sensor is installed correctly, but i have no idea what it technical name is.. (Mazda parts says its a condenser?) lol I hope those shavings arent from your new engine! :frown:
 

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With the engine at tdc, the bolt for the crank pully installed into the valve cover, you position the middle of the face of the crank sensor to the middle of the 5th tooth to the left of the first empty space on the pulse wheel






.

My '05 Mazda crank pulley has only one open space, not three. From what I've been able to determine I'll need to count back 9 teeth from the opening. My '05 crank sensor looks like the one antics posted above.

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the crank sensor looks like is aligned properly (and as antics says. Its diffenerent from ours), along with your cams. That other sensor is installed correctly, but i have no idea what it technical name is.. (Mazda parts says its a condenser?) lol I hope those shavings arent from your new engine! :frown:
Shavings are from the old engine. I assumed all the noise I had before the swap was a spun bearing, but after pulling the old block apart I found nearly zero slop in any of the rod bearings. Could have been a journal bearing I suppose but I have my doubts. On every other engine I've ever torn apart that spun a bearing the shavings in the pan had a fair amount of copper in them, these were all shiny bright steel or aluminum. I tested them with a magnet as well and virtually nothing stuck to the magnet.

I'm wondering if I had a failure up top and the shavings I was seeing were aluminum from the head. Bent valve maybe...
 

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Shavings are from the old engine. I assumed all the noise I had before the swap was a spun bearing, but after pulling the old block apart I found nearly zero slop in any of the rod bearings. Could have been a journal bearing I suppose but I have my doubts. On every other engine I've ever torn apart that spun a bearing the shavings in the pan had a fair amount of copper in them, these were all shiny bright steel or aluminum. I tested them with a magnet as well and virtually nothing stuck to the magnet.



I'm wondering if I had a failure up top and the shavings I was seeing were aluminum from the head. Bent valve maybe...

That's good news. I plan on tearing down the 2.3L once I get the car up and running to determine whether the failure point.


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Just a question for those that have swapped in a 2.5l, has anyone also dropped in an aftermarket cat-back exhaust?

I can't imagine there being THAT much difference in performance compared to a stock 2.3l, but my stock exhaust system has 130k+ miles on it and I don't expect it to last forever.

Kinda hoping something aftermarket and stainless for longevity for under $500 with a low tone, quiet would be fine too as I have a 2 hour+ commute everyday and frequent long highway trips.
 

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Exhausts are not really a maintenance item. If you want to replace it for the sound that's one thing but I'm sure there is nothing wrong with it and it'll last many many more years.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Just a question for those that have swapped in a 2.5l, has anyone also dropped in an aftermarket cat-back exhaust?

I can't imagine there being THAT much difference in performance compared to a stock 2.3l, but my stock exhaust system has 130k+ miles on it and I don't expect it to last forever.

Kinda hoping something aftermarket and stainless for longevity for under $500 with a low tone, quiet would be fine too as I have a 2 hour+ commute everyday and frequent long highway trips.
I was either going to but a OEM MS3 catback or a Racing Beat catback. I ended up getting a MS3 CB because of the price ($110 used)
I really don't see these systems providing anything other than a different sound and a very very mild performance gain on N/A cars.
Maybe if it was boosted w/ 3" piping all the way through, then that would be a different story.
But as antics said, it isn't a maintenance item. Unless your cat is toast and need to pass emissions; that would be the only thing I could see needing replacement.
 

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Exhausts are not really a maintenance item. If you want to replace it for the sound that's one thing but I'm sure there is nothing wrong with it and it'll last many many more years.
I've been under the car enough to know that there is significant rust-through on the piping and muffler.

I live in IL, and even though this year has been mild we typically see a lot of road salt from December through March.

In the old days if my car had exhaust issues I would cut off the section of pipe or cut off the muffler and just weld in whatever I needed to get the car to not sound like it's ripping farts down the highway.

Considering how much of the system under my 3 has rust-through, it would be wiser to just replace the whole system at once rather than piecemeal as things fall apart.
 

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That's completely understandable. I didn't realize your we're talking about serious rust. I put the mazdaspeed exist on mine like mazdato2 mentioned but it's probably not as quiet as you said you wanted. It's got a really deep tone but it is loud. People have cut out one of the resonators and welded in a straight through muffler to help with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
That's completely understandable. I didn't realize your we're talking about serious rust. I put the mazdaspeed exist on mine like mazdato2 mentioned but it's probably not as quiet as you said you wanted. It's got a really deep tone but it is loud. People have cut out one of the resonators and welded in a straight through muffler to help with it.
+1
 

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Swap is done. Cranked the new 2.5l over 3 or 4 times without the coils plugged in, plugged them in, and it literally revved right up as soon as I turned the key. A little burn-off from me handling the exhaust, but I've got 3 hours of run time and 20+ test miles on it with no leaks, no hiccups, no stalls, and no CELs. Engine running really strong, pulls away in first like it's got a fire under it's ass.

The exhaust noise is loud, not sure if it's the CAI or the weak spots/holes in the exhaust or combo of both.

We'll see how the next several hundred miles go as far as drive-ability is concerned. If the ECU can trim things to be fuel efficient enough I'll hold off on the tune. However, I have a feeling the tune is inevitable...

*edit* Just noticed the heat doesn't work. I probably installed the inlet/outlet hoses backwards on the heater core. I should have labeled those before I pulled them.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Swap is done. Cranked the new 2.5l over 3 or 4 times without the coils plugged in, plugged them in, and it literally revved right up as soon as I turned the key. A little burn-off from me handling the exhaust, but I've got 3 hours of run time and 20+ test miles on it with no leaks, no hiccups, no stalls, and no CELs. Engine running really strong, pulls away in first like it's got a fire under it's ass.

The exhaust noise is loud, not sure if it's the CAI or the weak spots/holes in the exhaust or combo of both.

We'll see how the next several hundred miles go as far as drive-ability is concerned. If the ECU can trim things to be fuel efficient enough I'll hold off on the tune. However, I have a feeling the tune is inevitable...

*edit* Just noticed the heat doesn't work. I probably installed the inlet/outlet hoses backwards on the heater core. I should have labeled those before I pulled them.
Awesome, must feel good eh? have you decided on an exhaust?
 

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We'll see how the next several hundred miles go as far as drive-ability is concerned. If the ECU can trim things to be fuel efficient enough I'll hold off on the tune. However, I have a feeling the tune is inevitable...
Not a single person out of probably a dozen swaps on these forums has HAD to get a tune for it to run correctly. The ecu managed it fine with the larger injectors on the 2.5. Do you have a way to monitor your LTFT?

I've averaged about 25.5 mpg over the 5000 miles I've driven since the swap. I have not gotten it tuned and have had no CELS or reliability issues.
 

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Excellent, glad to hear another success story. My swap is going slow since I'm fixing a bunch of suspension bits at the same time.

I installed the intake cam and timing chain this weekend but noticed the intake cam was difficult to set in the journals...not sure why. I triple checked the correct piston position before installing the cam timing tool.

Did any of you pull the timing tools and rotate the crank a few times before installing the crank pully and timing cover? I want to make sure the chain has consistent tension over several crank rotations.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Excellent, glad to hear another success story. My swap is going slow since I'm fixing a bunch of suspension bits at the same time.

I installed the intake cam and timing chain this weekend but noticed the intake cam was difficult to set in the journals...not sure why. I triple checked the correct piston position before installing the cam timing tool.

Did any of you pull the timing tools and rotate the crank a few times before installing the crank pully and timing cover? I want to make sure the chain has consistent tension over several crank rotations.
Are you referring to the tension being put onto the cam lobes by the valves? In which case, that's normal (pushing into a spring). I checked my timing before putting the timing cover back on. You just have to make 100% sure you're back at TDC again with the tools back in position before you proceed
 

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It's hard to set in the journals because you've got to compress the valve springs of the valves that are actuated.

I did a bunch of checks before buttoning it up completely. The valvetrain will not spin without the pulley and bolt installed because the crank is not keyed. Be careful rotating the crank without the crank bolt and pulley in place though because the valves may be open enough to bend if you ram a piston into them hard.

If you want to check it without the timing cover on- time the top end, make sure to have to crank throw rotated against the timing plug, put the crank pulley on and tighten the bolt to just enough to keep it all together while you rotate it.
 

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Thanks guys, exactly what I was looking for. I was going to install the crank bolt to rotate the crank.

Speaking of the crank, did any of you use a new thrust washer that comes on the Ford? Of course my '05 didn't have one but since Ford calls for it I was curious. I did buy a new OEM crank bolt with the attached washer.
 

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Got everything buttoned up and it fired up without issues. I've haven't taken it on a test drive since I still need to bleed the clutch and finish installing the suspension and driveline bits.
 
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