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Anybody have a photo of 2.3 06+ oil pan ?
Part number on it L3N5-10-400 or L3N5-10-401 ?
For the dipstick, I should use 2.3 or 2.5 one ? Is there any difference in length ?
Why some if you guys swapped their timing cover ? Is it because the new engine came from Ford ?
 

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Has anyone successfully ran a 2006+ mazda3 2.0(2.5 swap) without a tune for an extended period of time without any major issues?

I imagine if you run about 25% higher cc injectors than stock and run it with the 2.5 Mazda intake and TB it would run decent enough, but I'm more wondering about stability and reliability long term.

I know there have been a ton of successful swaps from 2.3 without a tune, but 2.5 is basically just a bored out 2.3.

I live in an area that's hard to ship tuning hardware to, and doesn't have any local tuners.
 

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99% of the time you can't run larger injectors without a tune. From what I can find the 2.0L and 2.3L models used the same injectors anyway.
 

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Datsun1600
Do you still running the swap without a tune ?
Did you monitor your LTFT STFT AFRs ?
Someone told me that even running 2.5 injectors, it runs lean under open loop WOT.
 

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Hello All,

Looks like this hasn't been active recently, but hoping for a long shot. I was recently able to complete the swap from my 2.3 to a junkyard 2.5 I found. The car was in an accident and everything else pointed to it being a well maintained vehicle. After getting everything put in and plugged up I have been unable to get spark, I think. I pulled all the coils and plugs and asked someone to look in the dark for spark as well as replacing the plugs with a screwdriver and putting it near metal to cause a spark. Car just cranks and cranks without sputtering or changes to the rhythm it's creating. I pulled the plugs and tested for spark and have been unable to get a spark with the coils and plugs that came with the engine or the coils and plugs, that I know work, off my 2.3. I've re-run the wiring harness twice and I'm all out of ideas after checking all the grounds. My biggest fear is that I broke a wire within my harness, but I'm not sure how that would have happened. About halfway back through this thread someone mentioned using an engine that had such bad compression they had the same issue as me, but I could definitely feel the engine I pulled from the yard building and releasing compression when I turned the crank.

I also noticed the instructions are for a manual car. I hope I didn't miss something somewhere that explains why this won't work for an automatic...

Any ideas or places to inspect would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I just got done doing the 2.5 same car runs and idles fine afr's are reading 14.7
But when I hit the gas the car goes to 15.6 to 16.2 hence's leans out then my header starts glowing red. Kinda stuck now cant even drive my car without it leaning out.
My car was originally a 2.0 then swapped in the 2.3 from my parts car then the 2.3 started knocking then swapped in the 2.5.
 

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Hello All,

Looks like this hasn't been active recently, but hoping for a long shot. I was recently able to complete the swap from my 2.3 to a junkyard 2.5 I found. The car was in an accident and everything else pointed to it being a well maintained vehicle. After getting everything put in and plugged up I have been unable to get spark, I think. I pulled all the coils and plugs and asked someone to look in the dark for spark as well as replacing the plugs with a screwdriver and putting it near metal to cause a spark. Car just cranks and cranks without sputtering or changes to the rhythm it's creating. I pulled the plugs and tested for spark and have been unable to get a spark with the coils and plugs that came with the engine or the coils and plugs, that I know work, off my 2.3. I've re-run the wiring harness twice and I'm all out of ideas after checking all the grounds. My biggest fear is that I broke a wire within my harness, but I'm not sure how that would have happened. About halfway back through this thread someone mentioned using an engine that had such bad compression they had the same issue as me, but I could definitely feel the engine I pulled from the yard building and releasing compression when I turned the crank.

I also noticed the instructions are for a manual car. I hope I didn't miss something somewhere that explains why this won't work for an automatic...

Any ideas or places to inspect would be greatly appreciated!
Make sure all you're grounds are hooked up and everything is plugged in if you dont have the grounds hooked up you wont get spark
 

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Make sure all you're grounds are hooked up and everything is plugged in if you dont have the grounds hooked up you wont get spark
After tearing the engine apart again, double checking timing, and wire wheeling all the ground it turns out the largest connection between the harnesses wasn't plugged in all the way. Really need to push it all the way in and it fired right up! Thanks for taking the time to respond.
 

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I also missed this thread before starting my swap a while back. I would recommend anyone considering doing this print the entire post and have it handy on the workbench.

My swap just passed 30K miles without a tune or hiccup.
 

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Not to hijack thread. New member here. Yes I see this is Mazda, same platform as Ford on the 2010 Ford Escape 2.5 VIN # 7 digit.

Needing to swap a motor and all I'm coming across is high mileage motors with the car-part interchange. Are there newer year models of the 2.5 that'll work with the 2010 era without any extra mods, programming, etc or am I limited.

Seems when I search 2.5 L engines for the Ford Escape it brings me back to this thread.

Based on what I was seeing for engine prices at the time I quoted the guy $1700-$2k for a swap as his engine was shot from a cold winter morning, coolant & oil in the pan mixed together and the vehicle was relieving itself going down the road. Haven't dropped the pan but the leak looked behind the pan on firewall side of engine just above pan. Was to oily & dirty at time to get under there but with the metal drained out with the extra oil added as dipstick was low (no reading on dipstick).

If someone knows of a more proper thread that'll help me more than this one as some of you seem very well settled in here then I would truly appreciate it.

Just want to get the guy the best engine for the money without having to go new, remanufactured as the price only goes skyward from there.

All help appreciated. Zip Code where we live is 57110 , Sioux Falls South Dakota. Want to find something that freight won't kill us on either.

Thanks D.N.
 

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Not to hijack thread. New member here. Yes I see this is Mazda, same platform as Ford on the 2010 Ford Escape 2.5 VIN # 7 digit.

Needing to swap a motor and all I'm coming across is high mileage motors with the car-part interchange. Are there newer year models of the 2.5 that'll work with the 2010 era without any extra mods, programming, etc or am I limited.

Seems when I search 2.5 L engines for the Ford Escape it brings me back to this thread.

Based on what I was seeing for engine prices at the time I quoted the guy $1700-$2k for a swap as his engine was shot from a cold winter morning, coolant & oil in the pan mixed together and the vehicle was relieving itself going down the road. Haven't dropped the pan but the leak looked behind the pan on firewall side of engine just above pan. Was to oily & dirty at time to get under there but with the metal drained out with the extra oil added as dipstick was low (no reading on dipstick).

If someone knows of a more proper thread that'll help me more than this one as some of you seem very well settled in here then I would truly appreciate it.

Just want to get the guy the best engine for the money without having to go new, remanufactured as the price only goes skyward from there.

All help appreciated. Zip Code where we live is 57110 , Sioux Falls South Dakota. Want to find something that freight won't kill us on either.

Thanks D.N.
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