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Hi, Guys,

Very interested in all of this but...

I've have heard that the 2.0 l timing cover will not fit the 2.5 l because the cylinder head is different ( taller). Someone else said that the bell housings are different so that the 2.0 l gearbox doesn't fit the 2.5 l block and that basically the swap is near impossible. This guy who told me all this was working at the wreckers where i went to see about a 2.5 l engine and that he had been involved in a swap. He also said there are problems with ecu's and axles etc, etc .

Generic diagrams of the 3 engines look identical to me and i thought internals were mostly the same for the 3 engines except for the crank stroke to give the extra capacity

Tried looking for pictures of the 3 engines ( 2.0,2.3 and the 2.5 l side by side ) so i can see for myself , but no good . I should mention that i am in Australia so i am only looking at Mazda engines not sure what Aussie ford engines would be compatible with this swap. If all this info is wrong,then would my option to get a oil pan and timing cover from a 2.3 and swap all my bits over to the 2.5 l like you guys describe. Does anyone in the US have pictures of the 2.0 l , 2.3 l and the 2.5 l engines showing the timing covers and oil pans so the differences can be seen? I suspect that these 3 engines are the same or close design for the US , Asia , Europe etc.

My car is a 2008 Bk 2.0 l hatchback and the 2.5 l that I would be interested in swapping is from a model we have here called the Mazda 3 SP 2.5. I thought engines from cars Pre Sky Active would fit up to 2013 .

Nothing wrong with my engine just wanted more power is all.

Happy days ,

Gez.
Unless you guys have a different 2.0L over there then most of that your buddy told you is false. The 2.0" and 2.3" use the same engine block so there is no way that the bell housing pattern would be different. There have been several successful 2.0L to 2.5L swap done and its basically the same as swapping from the 2.3L.
 

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Unless you guys have a different 2.0L over there then most of that your buddy told you is false. The 2.0" and 2.3" use the same engine block so there is no way that the bell housing pattern would be different. There have been several successful 2.0L to 2.5L swap done and its basically the same as swapping from the 2.3L.
Yes , I think that you are right. But the 2.0 l head is different is that right? So would have to source a 2.3 timing cover and oil pan to use By the way he was not my buddy and don't know why he would say what he said about this swap,. He was just someone in the wreckers yard office. Will continue to investigate.


Thanks for the reply.


Gez.




Gez.
 

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Yes , I think that you are right. But the 2.0 l head is different is that right? So would have to source a 2.3 timing cover and oil pan to use By the way he was not my buddy and don't know why he would say what he said about this swap,. He was just someone in the wreckers yard office. Will continue to investigate.


Thanks for the reply.


Gez.



Gez.
Read the swap thread, its been documented what needs to be done. You can use the 2.0 oil pan if you do the balance shaft delete on the 2.5. I don't recall anyone having to get a 2.3 timing cover to make the swap work either but I could be wrong.
 

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Read the swap thread, its been documented what needs to be done. You can use the 2.0 oil pan if you do the balance shaft delete on the 2.5. I don't recall anyone having to get a 2.3 timing cover to make the swap work either but I could be wrong.
Madmatt,

I had to get a new timing cover. The cover for the 2.0L is 3/4" too short due to the shorter head on the smaller engine. I got my timing cover for only the cost of shipping thanks to TripWire. A used timing cover would have cost $95.

Gez,

TripWire had offered me his oil pan also (free, other than shipping). But with my hasty online purchase I couldn't stop that part from shipping. Oil pan cost me $68. You can PM tripwire and see if he still has his pan and is still willing to part with it. I got his oil pickup tube already, so you'll need to get a new one, but they're not that expensive.
 

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Madmatt,

I had to get a new timing cover. The cover for the 2.0L is 3/4" too short due to the shorter head on the smaller engine. I got my timing cover for only the cost of shipping thanks to TripWire. A used timing cover would have cost $95.

Gez,

TripWire had offered me his oil pan also (free, other than shipping). But with my hasty online purchase I couldn't stop that part from shipping. Oil pan cost me $68. You can PM tripwire and see if he still has his pan and is still willing to part with it. I got his oil pickup tube already, so you'll need to get a new one, but they're not that expensive.
Thanks for clearing that up. Aren't the only issues with the 2.0 oil pan the dipstick provision and the balance shaft clearance?
 

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Thanks for clearing that up. Aren't the only issues with the 2.0 oil pan the dipstick provision and the balance shaft clearance?
Correct. The bolt pattern is the same, so it can be used if one does a BSD. But it is the lowest volume oil pan out of the three choices.

Within a few weeks I should be able to replace my daughter's tumble valve actuator and get rid of the last engine code. Once that is done I'll turn my attention to creating a new thread for a 2.0L to 2.5L engine swap. There seems to be a sufficient amount of interest from the 3i crowd. My daughter loves her new engine and think her car accelerates better than her brother's car (2.3L 3GT).
 

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Madmatt,

I had to get a new timing cover. The cover for the 2.0L is 3/4" too short due to the shorter head on the smaller engine. I got my timing cover for only the cost of shipping thanks to TripWire. A used timing cover would have cost $95.

Gez,

TripWire had offered me his oil pan also (free, other than shipping). But with my hasty online purchase I couldn't stop that part from shipping. Oil pan cost me $68. You can PM tripwire and see if he still has his pan and is still willing to part with it. I got his oil pickup tube already, so you'll need to get a new one, but they're not that expensive.

Ok guys thanks for the info. By the way I thought that the 2.0l had balance shafts as well but could be wrong . Will try to find out for sure and report back.


Gez.
 

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Ok guys thanks for the info. By the way I thought that the 2.0l had balance shafts as well but could be wrong . Will try to find out for sure and report back.


Gez.
Our 2007 2.0L had no balance shafts when we did the engine swap a couple months ago. The oil pan is too shallow to accommodate the balance shaft assembly.

When I took off the oil pan on the 2.5L engine I was like "what is this stuff?!" It was like bull testicles hanging down. Took some research to figure out it was the balance shaft hardware. At that point I didn't want to do the BSD, so I got myself a deeper oil pan. I don't need the extra performance that comes with removing the balance shaft.
 

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Hi Datsun 1600 and Mad Matt 2024,

You are both correct about the 2.0 l engine has no Balance shafts.

Please can you or anyone else clarify some of the points i have listed below....

If i do do this swap i think i will have to get a 2.3 oil pan and timing cover separately then i will need the oil pick from the 2.3 as well,is that also correct?

Can i just plug in all of my existing wiring harness for injectors spark plugs alternator and sensors into the 2.5 or do i need the harness with the "new" 2.5 engine? If use 2.5 engine harness are the plugs between E.C.M and the harness the same?

I realise the injector capacity of the 2.0 l injectors might be found wanting so might be better to upgrade to 2.3 or 2.5 injectors, Yes?


Can i use the clutch , flywheel and pilot bearing from the 2.0 l on the 2.5 ?

I have read just about all of the posts on the 2.3 to 2.5 but although all looks similar, still not sure about the 2.0 l E.C.M's ability to handle larger engine capacity .

Any help and advice welcome.

Thanks ,

Gez.
 

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Oh yes one other thing ....would it be correct as i think Mad Matt said, to use the 2.0 l oil pan on the 2.5 engine ( bolt pattern the same for all 3 engines) without the Balance shafts ? If so would there be enough oil available and what oil pickup i suppose the 2.0 l right?


Happy days,

Gez
 

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Oh yes one other thing ....would it be correct as i think Mad Matt said, to use the 2.0 l oil pan on the 2.5 engine ( bolt pattern the same for all 3 engines) without the Balance shafts ? If so would there be enough oil available and what oil pickup i suppose the 2.0 l right?


Happy days,

Gez
If you eliminate the balance shaft, then the 2.0L oil pan will provide you about 4.5 quarts of oil, which is sufficient. I think the capacity with a 2.3L oil pan is the same if you keep the balance shaft hardware.

As for oil pickup tubes go, they are a certain length and are configured with a certain angle to work with the depth of the oil pan and to fit around the baffle plates. The three oil pans I ended up with (2.0 mazda, 2.3 mazda, 2.5 ford) all had different baffle plates and hence the oil pickup tubes only worked with their respective pans.
 

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Hi Datsun 1600 and Mad Matt 2024,

You are both correct about the 2.0 l engine has no Balance shafts.

Please can you or anyone else clarify some of the points i have listed below....

If i do do this swap i think i will have to get a 2.3 oil pan and timing cover separately then i will need the oil pick from the 2.3 as well,is that also correct?

Can i just plug in all of my existing wiring harness for injectors spark plugs alternator and sensors into the 2.5 or do i need the harness with the "new" 2.5 engine? If use 2.5 engine harness are the plugs between E.C.M and the harness the same?

I realise the injector capacity of the 2.0 l injectors might be found wanting so might be better to upgrade to 2.3 or 2.5 injectors, Yes?


Can i use the clutch , flywheel and pilot bearing from the 2.0 l on the 2.5 ?

I have read just about all of the posts on the 2.3 to 2.5 but although all looks similar, still not sure about the 2.0 l E.C.M's ability to handle larger engine capacity .

Any help and advice welcome.

Thanks ,

Gez.
** You must use your existing wiring harness for compatibility. Also, it's rare if your new engine even comes with the wiring harness. Very rare. They just cut that thing off at every connection point.

** You'll need to use the 2.3 or 2.5 injectors. There are reasons either way depending on your choice of TB and IM. I used the Ford 2.5 injectors and fuel rail. I used a Mazda 2.5 TB and Mazda 2.5 IM. It works very, very well with this combination.

** Your existing flywheel / clutch / tranny / etc. should be retained.

** The ECU will adjust for all the air & fuel differences. If you monitor fuel trims what you'll see is that your car will think it's running rich (due to larger injectors), and so the fuel trims will be adjusted down. They be in the -10% to -15% range. Perfectly fine. As long as the car is between +25% and -25% you won't get any engine codes.
 

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Thanks again for all the answers.


Rang a wrecking yard today and they are telling me that the 2.5 Mazda 3 engine will not accept the 2.0l G/box as the bell housing bolt pattern is different on a 5v engine and would need a bell housing adaptor to make it work. That's the second time a wrecking yard has told me this and that the 2.5 engine won't work on my car . My car is 5 speed manual by the way.


Maybe this is true for Australia ,only way to find out for sure is to see these engines and gearboxes up close and personal for myself.


Any aussies on this forum with any experience of Mazda 3 engine swaps other than same for same?


Gez
 

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Thanks again for all the answers.


Rang a wrecking yard today and they are telling me that the 2.5 Mazda 3 engine will not accept the 2.0l G/box as the bell housing bolt pattern is different on a 5v engine and would need a bell housing adaptor to make it work. That's the second time a wrecking yard has told me this and that the 2.5 engine won't work on my car . My car is 5 speed manual by the way.


Maybe this is true for Australia ,only way to find out for sure is to see these engines and gearboxes up close and personal for myself.


Any aussies on this forum with any experience of Mazda 3 engine swaps other than same for same?


Gez
I think there are more than one situation where the bolt pattern on the parts (example: tranny bell housing, intake manifold) are different for various sizes (like the 2.0L IM vs. the 2.5L IM), but the block has all the necessary bolt holes to accommodate. It drove me nuts looking for my "missing" intake manifold bolts because there are somewhere around 9 bolt holes in the block. Then I finally realized that the IM only attaches with seven. And the choice of which seven are different between the Mazda and the Ford, and possibly even different between the Mazda 2.0 and Mazda 2.5. But they all work.

I think that may be the case with the different transmissions, but they can all bolt up to the same block.

Please someone correct me if I'm wrong on the trannys!!!
 

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Thank you all for this good info!
I'm having 2007 Mazda3 with LF 2.0 engine. 113K miles on it and now it start to eat 1 quart of oil each 600 miles. (I tried to put Liqui-moly OIL STOP with no success)
The problem is bad piston rings in cylinder #1 (compression test was done).
I maintained the car very well (5w40 oil with OEM filter each 3500 miles since the beginning) so why this happened ?
I'm looking to swap my LF engine with L3 2.3 or L5 2.5 (Mazda parts here are cheaper than ford).
Do you prefer L3 2.3 engine if it is directly fitted (I found one with same AC compressor location design as mine so no need to replace oil pan) or go to L5 2.5?
I can find L5 2.5 engine from a Mazda 6 2010 car or CX7 for good price.
I have the black with orange injector now on my car.
Should I use my injectors (black with orange) or use the new engine ones (black with white) ?
I can get the L5 TB, will it fit directly to the air filter pipe ?
Will the ECU calibrate and give me the full power of L5 engine or will I loose some of it due to the LF ECU (I think no body have a real answer unless a dyno test) ?
Will my oil pan fit to the new engine directly or any further mods is required ?
If the new engine sitting on the ground (from a front clip) how can I determine if the engine is in a good condition ? Someone says open oil fill cap and check cam color (btw I find one engine it is look shine like new without any rust or yellowish sign on cam)
Any information will be appreciated.
Regards
 

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Tony,
I recomend to have another shop do first a cylinder compression check and then a leak down test to verify what you posted as the results. I am very skeptical that unless you are willing to post the shops check and test results by each cylinder (as they should have) and based on what you posted about the oil consumption they may not have given you the the correct information.
 

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Tony Mazda,

Your case would be the first oil consumption issue I've seen posted on these forums for a 2.0L engine. The 2.3L engines seem notorious for oil consumption (well, at least it happens to a certain percentage of 2.3L engines).

Your engine is fairly young at only 113k miles. You might want to price out a rebuild for your engine and compare it to the price of a 2.3L replacement. Skip the 2.5L if you are going to have compatibility issues. I really don't know about the engine & tranny differences for cars sold outside the USA.

Since you have a 2007, your ECU should work just fine with either engine. Because you are sourcing Mazda engines, they SHOULD be a direct swap based on information we have here. If it were me, I'd go with whatever engine has lower miles on it! You'll be happy with a 2.3L and a 2.5L. Keep the injectors that come with the engine as well as the throttle body and intake manifold.

I think the only thing you may have to change would be the vacuum actuator for the intake manifold runner control (IMRC). You got to keep the one from the 2.0L engine and make it fit. See pics I've posted for the mods I had to make on that. It's quite easy to do with the engine out of the car!
 

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Thank you guys for your reply.
For the compression result on each cylinder: 11 - 11 - 11 - 8 + smoke at high rev + 1 quart on 600 miles => bad rings.
For the costs:
1) Rebuild:
Piston rings + head gasket + bearings (I assume only those parts) about 350$ + labor costs here about 300$
(here it is cheaper than USA) so total 650$
2) New engine: L3=700$
L5=800-900$
So I deiced to swap the engine for another good one.
What about the power runing L3/L5 engine with LF ECU?
Will the LF oil pan fits L3/L4 ?
 

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2) New engine: L3=700$
L5=800-900$
So I deiced to swap the engine for another good one.
What about the power runing L3/L5 engine with LF ECU?
Will the LF oil pan fits L3/L4 ?
A fine choice. The power will be correct even when using the ECU from a 2.0L engine (LF). My daughter's 2.0L 2007 got a 2.5L Fusion engine installed (all Mazda intake system) and the power is even better than her brother's 2.3L 2007. So, don't worry about the ECU or the need to get a tune done!

The LF oil pan will NOT fit unless you do a balance shaft delete. I didn't want to do that, so for the Ford Fusion 2.5L engine I had to get a 2.3L Mazda oil pan to work with the balance shaft.

It should be an easy swap. Good luck!
 
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