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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to cover my version of a Coolant flush and installation of new Radiator hoses.

Another great write-up ( Provides more technical information ) - http://www.flex-innovations.com/coolant.htm

Materials needed:
1 - flathead screwdriver
1 - 10 mm wrench
1 - pair of pliers
1 - pair of locking pliers
1 - Drain funnel
1 - Drain pan or 2 empty Milk jugs or both
1 to 2 - Gallons of coolant ( see your owners manual )
10-15 - various wrenches, pliers, you will see LOL!!!
UPDATE - Replace the pressure clamps with all new screw style metal clamps, they will keep your hoses from leaking.

So I ordered a set of those nice new OBX radiator hoses from our forum sponsor :

Darkstar Motorsports

Plus they came in blue so how could I resist.

Well if you replace the hoses you have to drain the coolant. I figured this was the perfect time to do both and be done with it.

I have to admit, this took me a lot longer than I planned ( 6 hours ), ran into a few snags with hose clamps both removing and re-installing them, very tight spots to work in and having huge hands does not help. Plus taking 40 plus pictures and several breaks.

Actual work time - approx 2 hours.

Tip - take your time and breath, don't do like me and yell and get crazy, also helps if you do not listen to Death Metal, wait I did not do that :lol:

Also drain 2 times for a more complete flush, this was not needed for my car, coolant was not that dark.

Anyways lets begin.

I started by getting the car up on the ramps, I had to use 2 x 4's because I am lowered and my car will not clear the ramps without a little help. You can jack the car up, but extra clearance is needed for a drain pan and removal of hoses. If you have a lift, your golden.



Next - remove the lower splash guard, lots of 10mm bolts, you may have to remove the front lower guard as well, mine is removed already.



Locate the drain valve.











I removed the coolant fill tank for easier access to the lower hose and to completly drain. This is optional, I just wanted to do it. There are 2 clips on the frame which hold this in place, easy to remove, just press on them with your thumb or use a flathead screwdriver. Pull straight up.



Here is the spot where the coolant tank sits.















































Special thanks to:

Darkstar Motorsports

http://www.darkstarmotorsports.com/

They provided the OBX Radiator hoses.

Double Layer Reinforced Performance Radiator Hose Kit

Gave your Mazda 3 more effective flow & cooling during hard driving conditions, when stock factory rubber hose get hot so the rubber hose collapse cause a shortage flow inside your radiator. By having this part installed will max out your car's cooling potentials !!!

Compound by both EPDM material and 2 Layun mesh layer woven. Double wrapped provide high endurance and reliability. Double layer pressure bearing 10Kg/ 1cm², 150% stronger than OE rubber hose. No necessary to worry about the high temperature or pressure will broken your upgrade radiator hose during long time driving or high turning.

Direct replacement for the Mazdaspeed 3 or Mazda 3 (2.3L or 2.0L) Radiator Hoses

Colors; Red, Blue, Black



 

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your car is so clean and nice. but nice right up!
 

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Good writeup,

As a suggestion, maybe you should provide a link to my walkthrough which provides more technical knowledge and information directly from the factory manual for those that want to make sure they don't introduce air into the system or use the wrong type of coolant.

http://www.flex-innovations.com/coolant.htm

Or I think I posted the walkthrough on this forum somewhere as well...

Anyways, those hoses look pretty sweet.
 

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when its time to do mine, I'm getting those hoses. I've got an Aurora Blue HB so those blue covers would come in great

How did you paint the blue engine cover? That's not powder coated is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
[quote author=vtrin link=topic=136818.msg2973523#msg2973523 date=1236107659]
when its time to do mine, I'm getting those hoses. I've got an Aurora Blue HB so those blue covers would come in great

How did you paint the blue engine cover? That's not powder coated is it?
[/quote]

I spraypainted my engine cover just like everyone else does on these forums. I used Metalspec Blue and clear.

I have another engine cover waiting to be painted, I am going for a gloss look next time with a different design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
[quote author=Tronix102 link=topic=136818.msg3014702#msg3014702 date=1237928431]
What about purging the air?
[/quote]

I did not have any issues with air, so for that someone else will have to chime in.
 

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just did the coolant drain and fill, no changing of hoses.

old dark stuff. i had put nearly 40k on the car since i bought it (83k miles). i had a CEL the other week for "low coolant temp". thought it would be a good idea to drain and fill. overall i swapped about just over 1 gallon.


new bright green stuff.
 

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I flushed the coolant over the weekend as well. I did 5 drains and refills. The original fluid was very dark, but I think that's how it comes from the factory.
I took some pics after each drain for comparison. I didn't take a pic of the 5'th drain as I could't find a clear plastic bottle :(, however the fifth drain was almost clear, with very slight hint of green, so it was good for me.

I decided to do this, as i wanted to convert to Zerex G-05, so I flushed it as much as I could.

Here are some comparison pics for those of you wondering how many drains & fills it takes to get most of the old coolant out.


Here is the comparison in the table

This one is against the sun, note that the original fill is very dark as there is very little sun shining through.
 

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I have almost 44k, and ever since about 15k my radiator fan runs on high all the time. Now that I have an Cobb AP I'm seeing my temperatures in the 240's where they should be in the 190's at least that's what I've been told. I haven't done a coolant flush yet, but I'll do one this weekend. Very nice write up btw! I'm assuming there isn't much difference between a regular 3 and a MS3.

Now my question is, is it possible that's what the problem may be is that I just need to change the coolant? My level looks good now, I don't think I have any leaks. I did have the dealer check the cooling system back at 30k and he said everything was fine, and that this was normal. My temp gauge stays in the middle after warm up, and only ticks about two ticks above middle on 100 F weather when coming to a stop and idling for 3 min.
 

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Well it ended up being the thermostat. After replacing it my temperatures are back in the 190's.
 

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hey tek do u have any pics of the engine bay further away so we can see how the obx hoses look?? thanks..


ps. just read some of ur mods......damm!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
[quote author=will0899 link=topic=136818.msg3375798#msg3375798 date=1255932271]
hey tek do u have any pics of the engine bay further away so we can see how the obx hoses look?? thanks..


ps. just read some of ur mods......damm!!!!
[/quote]

Really can't see the hoses unless you look down inside the engine bay, but I do have shots from futher away. Well you can see them a little bit.

I will take new shots once my GT Spec brace arrives.





 
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