Mazda3 Forums banner
81 - 98 of 98 Posts
[quote author=mctwist link=topic=101559.msg2454605#msg2454605 date=1215735956]
Wow...most of these cars don't even look lowered - like, at all. :shock:
[/quote]
yea whats up with that
 
Got my springs installed last night. WooHoo! Major improvement over stock. A big thanks top ATK for your help!

I don't know if it is just me but I noticed a big difference after replacing the front springs. When I lowered my car back down and went to close the hood I could tell that it had been lowered, more than I was expecting actually.

These springs are great!
Thanks for the write up Sacrilicious...Oh yeah and the ratchet trick...Brilliant!
 
I have the COBB Stage 2 Suspension package on my list of parts, my only question is, does the lowering of the car 1" cause anyone to scrape?

Right now I drive around a lowered 2003 6s with a bodykit and I seem to scrape pretty frequently with the 4.5" of clearance in the front, 4" of clearance on the side, and 6" in the back. Can anyone give me their ground to front lip/skirt/rear bumper height? I mean even if those are the numbers that come up for you guys I know what I need to avoid around my area and it took me a few scrapes to figure it out, but I'd be ok if it was the same height. And some guy on the COBBTuning forum suggested going out to a sheet metal supplier and having them cut a piece of sheet metal shaped for the under part of your front bumper or where ever desired.
 
[quote author=2008jayspeed3 link=topic=101559.msg2409090#msg2409090 date=1214027406]
Once you remove the dust cover (part 6) from the top of the strut, you will see that parts: 7,8,9,10 are one assembly. DO NOT pull on part 9 or 10, where these two join is where the bearings are housed. If you, in any way, pry these two pieces apart the bearings will scatter and you will have a mess on your hands. Pull on the bottom of part 8. and the whole assembly (7,8,9,10) will come out.

Note: get all torque values for the nuts and bolts and have a good torque wrench. These two are critical when working on any suspension mods.

Here is a diagram.


Hope it helps.
[/quote]

Does anyone have a diagram like this for the rear of the car?
I am about to attempt to install Koni Yellows and I need help with the rear.
 
[quote author=2008jayspeed3 link=topic=101559.msg2409090#msg2409090 date=1214027406]
DO NOT pull on part 9 or 10, where these two join is where the bearings are housed. If you, in any way, pry these two pieces apart the bearings will scatter and you will have a mess on your hands. Pull on the bottom of part 8. and the whole assembly (7,8,9,10) will come out.
[/quote]

I think you mean part 8, not part 9 or 10. Part 8 dissociates into two pieces if I remember right. Correct me if I am wrong.

http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=113948.0
 
Remove stabilizer, steering link, punch bolt, brake/abs un clipped, then just use leg power and kick the knuckle down and it slides off. hen take off the strut tower bolts. Took me no time as all to change the suspension in my focus, which is the same thing as the 3 under the sheet metal.
 
[quote author=Nick F. link=topic=101559.msg2802104#msg2802104 date=1229079234]
...Took me no time as all to change the suspension in my focus, which is the same thing as the 3 under the sheet metal.
[/quote]

Not exactly true.

While they share most archetypal features, they are based on two different platforms (unless of course you live somewhere other than North America and your Focus was a 2005 or newer model).

The Focus rides on the C170 platform, whereas the MS3 is built upon the C1 platform.

The C1 platform is simply an evolved C170.

:)
 
I used this write up this weekend to help me install my Eibach pro-kit springs. The one thing I would definately recommend is to loosen the strut nut a little while it is still bolted in the car. I actully had to remount the strut assy and bolt in the top 3 bolts and break the nut loose because I couldn't get it to budge with the entire assy out on the ground.
The second side I just loosened the nut a little before I removed the entire assy and it worked excellent.
This write up helped tremendously though....
 
[quote author=timv link=topic=101559.msg2943912#msg2943912 date=1234924511]
I used this write up this weekend to help me install my Eibach pro-kit springs. The one thing I would definately recommend is to loosen the strut nut a little while it is still bolted in the car. I actully had to remount the strut assy and bolt in the top 3 bolts and break the nut loose because I couldn't get it to budge with the entire assy out on the ground.
The second side I just loosened the nut a little before I removed the entire assy and it worked excellent.
This write up helped tremendously though....
[/quote]

+1, nice tip! :)
 
Thanks for the tip on the scissor jack. What a great help that was.


Pumped on my COBB springs. They are exactly what the MS3 was lacking from the factory. They killed the uneven wheel gap, nose lift under acceleration and floatiness at high speed. Best part about it, the ride quality diminished so LITTLE that I can hardly tell i've changed them.
 
Loctite isn't generally a good idea on suspension parts because the mechanic is going to have an impossible time getting the part's back off when and if they need changing + if you torque it , it shouldn't come loose as they torque everything from the factory and it hasn't come undone

thats just my opinion though
 
hey guys im about to attempt spring installtion myself... but with the H&R spring instead of the cobb.


Im pretty noobish about this and i was gonna just go ahead and take it to a shop to get it done but with quotes being between $370-450 i would be paying more then the springs worth themselves.


Im gonna have to buy alot of the tools on the guide cuz i dont even have jack stands or a real jack *sigh*.... also spring compressors.


Will this guide work if i were to b installing h&r springs?
 
81 - 98 of 98 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top