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There a PDF of this how-to available? Maybe I'll put it all together if its not. Assuming someone could host it..
 
I'll be patching this how-to up into a pdf over the rest of my afternoon if I can. Coming out nicely so far..

In other news, I installed my Cobb Springs last night with a friend of mine. I can safely say the front springs were a bitch and a half. The entire install took us about 6 hours, the front springs taking up 4.5 of those hours. After following the OP's advice, I didnt try to break the middle strut bolt (surrounded by the three other bolts under the hood) until I had the entire strut out of the wheel well. We COULD NOT break that bolt with the hex/wrench combo, outside of the whell well (with me and him holding the strut/spring still with our legs. We found that breaking the bolt initially with the strut still in the wheel well worked much better.

Ran into another hurdle along the way as well. After compressing the spring..and getting the middle strut nut off, I naturally tried pulling the top of the strut off, so we could pull the stock spring off the strut. Well apparently, I pulled on the wrong part and actually ripped the top of the strut off. Inside of that strut were about 3 metal rings and about 15 mini ball bearings that went flying all over my driveway. After nearly shitting myself, I got an all fours and combed my driveway and found 12/15 of those tiny little balls, I then reassembled the strut, popped the Cobb Spring on and was on my way. I cant help but think that missing those 3 little ball bearings is somehow going to make my strut shit out..but honestly I don't think its a big deal.

Anyhow, impressions so far have been great. Immediatly after the install we took the car down some serious twisty's in Seekonk, MA. Car seems much less floaty over road humps and generally feels more connected to the road. Turn-in response is amazing. Very pleased with the results so far, not so much pleased with the install. Oh well, here's how she sits now. Springs still have some settling to do.




 
Also, just wanted to get some opinions on a noise I keep hearing (vague I know). Whenever I turn the wheel a good amount (such as backing out of a parking spot), I hear a clanging noise. I'm thinking that I should apply some grease where the bottom of the springs sit. Anyone else experience this?
 
The FSM's instructions for Front Shock Absorber and Coil Spring Removal/Installation say to remove the Tie-rod end ball joint before removing the coil-over, presumably to prevent damage to the steering linkage. I'm guessing this is because with the coil-over removed, the steering linkage has to support the weight of the wheel hub assembly. Also, it seems possible you could damage the steering linkage during the violent process of removing the strut body from the clamp.

I prefer the method of using a socket adapter to spread open the clamp and a scissor jack to press the strut out of the clamp, but I still wonder if it's possible to damage the steering linkage by letting the suspension sag to the point that the linkage is holding it up.

Did you guys remove that ball joint during your install (requires replacing the lock-nut) or was this not a concern?

One idea would be to support the hub assembly from below with a floor jack to prevent too much sag.
 
Okay, cool. You didn't mention that in your How-to.

I know it's probably not necessary because the steering linkage is pretty robust, but I want to do this right the first time.

I also noticed in your How-to that you removed the strut body from the clamp before removing the three upper bolts, which is in reverse order according to the FSM. Presumably with upper mount loosed from the shock tower, you'll have more slop in the system. Any reason you didn't go this route?

Also suggested is loosening the lower arm inner bolt--again I figure this gives you more flexibility to get the strut out of the tight clamp.
 
you are going to want to order a new strut top from the dealer, to replace those ball bearings that "went flying everywhere". That is a pretty critical component of the setup, as it allows the strut to twist as you turn the wheel. basically what you did was now weaken the action of that component; reducing its life significantly. ball bearings like that need all the bearings in them to work properly...also, i assume you re-packed that bearing with new grease correct?

but either way, you ware going to want to replace it, because it "is a big deal" :)

enjoy your new springs.!
 
Great How-To and props on using our stock scissors jack to get the strut out. I do not know how I could gotten it out with out it. Might want to include a section about not pulling on the wrong part on top of the strut w/ the bearings. I read about and still manage to pull the top half off. Lucky me I found all of them and re-assmebled it. Thank you again :).

These springs kit ASS!
 
I am about to do the spring install. I would love it if someone could post a picture of where to pull apart the strut without bearing troubles. It seems every thread I read is loaded with people who did it the wrong way and are now in need of new parts.
 
Once you remove the dust cover (part 6) from the top of the strut, you will see that parts: 7,8,9,10 are one assembly. DO NOT pull on part 9 or 10, where these two join is where the bearings are housed. If you, in any way, pry these two pieces apart the bearings will scatter and you will have a mess on your hands. Pull on the bottom of part 8. and the whole assembly (7,8,9,10) will come out.

Note: get all torque values for the nuts and bolts and have a good torque wrench. These two are critical when working on any suspension mods.

Here is a diagram.


Hope it helps.
 
Well, it's been a while since installing, so I'm sure they're about as settled as they're going to get.

I'm happy with the ride and the improvement in handling, but I'm really disappointed with the drop (or lack thereof).

Ened up with 0.75" drop in the front, and 0.125" in the rear. Don't see how they can advertise 1" F/R. I got virtually no drop in the rear. They should call it 1/2" F, 0" R. It'd be closer to the truth.
 
Well, I started my Cobb stage 2 suspension installation yesterday and only got the front springs on. I managed to keep all the bearings in place, so big thanks for the tips from 2008jayspeed3 and others that figured this out.

I had trouble in a couple of places. The strut was really stuck in the lower control arm even with the gap spread open with the ratchet trick. I had to use a 2x4 and a sledge hammer to get it loose.

I am not to confident in the proper torque on the top nut of the strut. The upper portion of the strut moves a bit when you go to torque the nut and prevents an accurate tightening.

I hope to get through alot more of the install later today, but we will see how it goes.
 
[quote author=drzoidberg link=topic=101559.msg2412628#msg2412628 date=1214237623]
I am not to confident in the proper torque on the top nut of the strut. The upper portion of the strut moves a bit when you go to torque the nut and prevents an accurate tightening. [/quote]

The top of your strut rod has a slot for an Allen wrench, right?

You might try using a box-end wrench to torque the nut while an assistant holds the strut rod in place with the Allen wrench. Extending the lever arm of the Allen wrench with locking pliers will help, too. That nut doesn't require a lot of torque, so this method worked fine for me.
 
[quote author=Ploppity Drown link=topic=101559.msg2412876#msg2412876 date=1214242739]
[quote author=drzoidberg link=topic=101559.msg2412628#msg2412628 date=1214237623]
I am not to confident in the proper torque on the top nut of the strut. The upper portion of the strut moves a bit when you go to torque the nut and prevents an accurate tightening. [/quote]

The top of your strut rod has a slot for an Allen wrench, right?

You might try using a box-end wrench to torque the nut while an assistant holds the strut rod in place with the Allen wrench. Extending the lever arm of the Allen wrench with locking pliers will help, too. That nut doesn't require a lot of torque, so this method worked fine for me.

[/quote]

Mine were am pita to take off. I had to use of breaker bar on the box-end wrench and the allen wrench. So I also used them to tighten it back. Not to mention this nut is the only thing holding the spring assembly together before install.

You have the fronts done, the rears are are a piece of cake. :)
 
Finally done!!

Well it took way too long to complete the install, but some was do to mistakes. First mistake was not positioning the front sway bar to be as far back as possible. It makes me think the slots should just be standard holes in the correct position. Second mistake was finding out that there are 2 different size bushings for the sway bars in the box. I found this out after the front was in and I was on to the rear. So if your counting, thats 3 times I had to get to the bushings on the front bar! I know this was a dumn mistake, but there should be some mention of sizing in the instructions.

My last install comment has to do with the front sub-frame. Once down, it is pretty hard to get it back up. You need to be pretty strong or pretty creative with some ratchet straps etc.

Anyway, I am happy to have it all done! My first impression with limited driving is actually more comfortable than stock. It feels tighter, but the bumps in the road have more of a thud and less of a bang now. I hope that makes sense.
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
[quote author=Ploppity Drown link=topic=101559.msg2369687#msg2369687 date=1212700735]
Okay, cool. You didn't mention that in your How-to.

I know it's probably not necessary because the steering linkage is pretty robust, but I want to do this right the first time.

I also noticed in your How-to that you removed the strut body from the clamp before removing the three upper bolts, which is in reverse order according to the FSM. Presumably with upper mount loosed from the shock tower, you'll have more slop in the system. Any reason you didn't go this route?

Also suggested is loosening the lower arm inner bolt--again I figure this gives you more flexibility to get the strut out of the tight clamp.
[/quote]

i'm not sure which bolt is the lower arm inner bolt, but if it's the one that i'm thinking of, i took it out completely. i left the strut bolted to the top because i used that as leverage to hold the strut in place as i did my scissors jack trick. you can obviously try other ways to get things out, but that's just the way that happened to work for me as i was trying to figure out how to do this...=d
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
[quote author=2008jayspeed3 link=topic=101559.msg2400066#msg2400066 date=1213767630]
Great How-To and props on using our stock scissors jack to get the strut out. I do not know how I could gotten it out with out it. Might want to include a section about not pulling on the wrong part on top of the strut w/ the bearings. I read about and still manage to pull the top half off. Lucky me I found all of them and re-assmebled it. Thank you again :).

These springs kit ASS!
[/quote]

good addition. i didn't happen to have this problem, but it's definitely important that other people watch out for this just in case. i put it in the placeholder post that i made, because editing the main post is a royal PITA because these forums don't like long posts, so i failed to get it to accept the post for like 5x before i gave it up.
 
I finished formulating this thread into a neat pdf file for easy printing when you need to install. Is there someone I can send the file to to host it up? It'd be nice to have the download link right in the first post so people can snag it really quick. In the meantime, those interested, shoot me a PM with your email and I'll send it your way.
 
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