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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been meaning to do the big 3 for a while and ordered a bunch of stuff from Knu Konceptz. I figured I'd do it once right with good materials, so I got:

- A Metra negative battery terminal with 2 8 gauge connections (for the stock wires), a 0 gauge connection (for the chassis ground), and a 4 gauge connection (for the engine hanger) (not from Knu)
- 3 foot of 0 gauge wire for the battery-to-chassis connection
- A 0-gauge set-screw ring terminal for the chassis connection, since it seems really hard to crimp a 0-gauge ring
- A 120A inline fuse holder for the positive line
- 6 foot of 4 gauge wire for the alt-to-fuse and fuse-to-terminal connection
- 2 4 gauge crimp rings for the positive line
- 5 foot of 4 gauge wire for the terminal to engine hanger connection (and maybe enough left over to ground the throttle body on my wife's car)
- a 4 gauge crimp ring for the engine hanger

I ended up having to do all the 4 gauge ring terminals with a bench vise at work. If you end up having to ghetto-crimp terminal like I did, make sure the bench the vise is attached to is secured to the floor more securely than the strength of your ring terminals. I damn near flipped the bench trying to get the first one done. I ended up putting a bit of solder on the ends just to seal the connection in case they tried to corrode later, but that was probably overkill.

I started with try to do the line from the negative battery terminal to the engine hanger. Snag number one was that the Knu Konceptz ring terminal only has a large enough hold for a 5/16" bolt, and the engine hanger bolts seem to be at least 3/8". I'm now looking for a 4-gauge 3/8" ring terminal that I can replace my existing terminal with. So, I figured I'd skip this one till later.

Next up I figured I'd do the battery-to-chassis connection. In the interests of using as little 0-gauge wire as possible I drilled a hole in the side of my battery box to run the wire through. Snag two was that the 0 gauge I bought was too long and had to be trimmed... and 0-gauge is a bitch to cut. I measured out the right length and figured I'd borrow the bolt cutters at work to take care of it, but I could at least mount the chassis side and pull the wire through to make sure I got an accurate needed length. The set-terminal went on, I unscrewed the bolt holding the stock chassis ground on and realized it was really... short. Knu's 0-gauge set-screw terminals are about 1/4" thick, so I didn't have enough extra length on the bolt to go through the terminal and into the chassis reliably. So now I'm looking for a new bolt. I figured I'd finish this off when I got the new ring terminal for the engine hanger line.

At least I had everything to do the alternator connection. 5 feet seemed like just enough to go from my positive battery terminal to the fuse holder stuck on the fuse box lid and back to the alternator. The ring terminals seemed to fit over all the bolts. Everything was good... until I tried to take the right bolt off the positive battery terminal, and the threaded post that it was on snapped clean off. I ended up attaching the stock ring terminal to the left post where the fusible link is attached, but I don't want to keep it like if the posts really are weak enough to snap off. At that point I pretty much declared the project over for the day and figured I'd try again when I got a new ring terminal, chassis ground bolt, and positive battery terminal.

So, if you want to do the Big 3 and are bound and determined to do it The Right Way (tm) by buying a bunch of high-quality gear, make sure the gear you've got actually fits right first.
 

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0-gauge cable is a lot easier to cut if you don't try to cut the whole cable at once. I just use my Klein crimping tool and just chomp my way through it, one bite at a time. And believe me, wire that is too long is always better than too short.

depending on the type and thickness of the ring terminal, can you just drill it out to fit the larger bolt?
 

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Damn man sorry to hear about all the problems, hopefully you will get it all taken care of, take your time, if you get fustrated walk away and take a break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
[quote author=automaticman link=topic=135702.msg2922668#msg2922668 date=1234150630]
0-gauge cable is a lot easier to cut if you don't try to cut the whole cable at once. I just use my Klein crimping tool and just chomp my way through it, one bite at a time. And believe me, wire that is too long is always better than too short.

depending on the type and thickness of the ring terminal, can you just drill it out to fit the larger bolt?
[/quote]

My problem with cutting the 0-gauge is that I don't have anything that can get around it well. All the stuff around the house has a cutting surface smaller than the diameter of the cable. I'm figuring the bolt cvutting will make quick work of it though. I've measure it out with a good amount of slack, but I had about a foot of 0-gauge I dodn't want pooling in the battery box.

I looked into drilling out the ring terminal, but since it's going to connect to the engine hanger I want to make sure I don't weaken it too much. If the engine is going to be moving around a bit on the mounts I don't want it to flex, break, and the cable to land on something hot in the vicinity. 4 gauge 3/8 ring terminals aren't hard to get anyway.

Replacing the positive battery terminal seems to be the long pole in the tent right now. I can't seem to find a listing for it on any of the online dealers. If anyone has a good aftermarket positive battery terminal they've used that will still bolt up to the fusible link I'd appreciate hearing about it.
 

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I never cut wire of anysort till it is run, once it's all in place then you can trim it to fit. I too have learned the hard way thinking something would be long enough.
 
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