[crazyfast]

I just finished putting in my vibrant headers (very nice piece) but the check engine light is now on and the car is running like CRAP. i stripped out the primary sensor while removing it, so i replaced it with a bosch universal one and just hooked it up to the factory harness. i had an O2 bung welded in behind my magnaflow high flow cat and extended the factory wiring harness so that it would reach to the new O2 bung. in theory i should not be having any problems, right? well, i am having problems and i am really pissed about it... my engine is throwing 3 CEL codes: P0032, P0038, P0134. can someone PLEASE help me out here... :tense:

 

[superslow3]

p0032-ho2s heater controll circuit high. bank 1 sensor 1. (upstream)
p0038- heater controll circuit bank 1 sensor 2 (downstream)
p0134- O2 Circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1, Sensor 1 (upstream)

sounds like you wired it up wrong. i would check your wiring job or just buy a factory replacement.

my o2 sensor also came out with no threads on it. but i could not find a replacement because my 06 has a 5 wire wideband sensor. so i have to call the dealer on monday.

 

[crazyfast]

thanks, i'll check my wiring tommorow. what does it mean by heater controll curcuit high (sorry, im new with O2 sensors) and where did u find those codes?

 

[biped]

i thought the vibrtant header came with a guide for the anti-fouler trick, or some sort of "kit"?

 

[crazyfast]

the kit coinsists of a new O2 bung to be welded in behind the secondary cat and some wires to extend the factory harness with so that the ecu will think that there is still a cat where there is supposed to be one. i dont know if the fact that i have a high flow cat makes a difference or not, but it sounds like my primary O2 sensor is the problem any way.

 

[superslow3]

http://www.iequus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php this is where i found out the defs of your codes.

most o2 sensers use a built in heater to help the the sensor up to temp. (needs to be hot to work) you probably have an open circuit in the heater.

usually when i see this code at work i just replace the sensor, but if you were making the wires longer that is the first place i would look, if that was all good then did you drop the sensor maby?

 

[crazyfast]

i don't think i dropped the sensor. actually i'm almost positive i didn't. i re-did the wiring on the primary sensor this morning and i thought that i had fixed it because the check engine light went away. the car felt amazingly powerful for about 20 minutes and then... BLAM... my worst enemy returns. the cel came back on and performance went to hell again. i think i'm gonna check the wires on the secondary sensor tonight, and maybe go buy a code reader from autozone so i can do that with out the help of the assholes there... wish me luck :tense:

 

[biped]

you're likely going to need some anti-foulers.

 

[crazyfast]

ok, so now i'm starting to get a little frustrated... i got a code reader (amazing investment) and i've been fiddling around with my O2 sensors to get rid of the CEL. as of yet, i have not been able to get it to go away. my main issue is that for some reason my ecu won't recognize the signal coming from the #1 O2 sensor. i tried swapping the #2 O2 sensor out for the #1 (i know that the #2 works), and after the switch my code reader still said that there was "No connectivity in O2 Sensor (Bank one, Sensor one)". now i have no idea what to do... CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!

 

[wetsuitxninja]

You stripped out the primary o2 sensor? Meaning the first one? That one is for the a\f ratio, so your running in limp mode. Im not sure if the bosch one you bought works with the ecu to get your a\f where it needs to be or not, you may want to look into that more deeply.

If its your second sensor, then that will just illuminate the CEL, but your car wont run any differently. You only want to install the CEL eliminator on the second sensor, not the first one.

 

[wetsuitxninja]

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/th...--003&category=All&part=Oxygen Sensor&dp=true

Alright man I looked at it, they have different sensors. One if for before the catand one is for after the cat.

My guess is you picked up one that would work after the cat, so its throwing your a\f off, trippin the CEL and causing your car to run in limp mode, making it feel like shit. Its not gonna hurt anything other than performance, probably should head to the stealership and pick up the correct one if you have one locally.

 

[crazyfast]

thanks for the help man. i was REALLY trying to not go back to the stealership (nice word btw). i hate that damn place. i always end up spending hudreds of dollars there... do u know how much the O2 sensors are from the dealership? and i thought that an O2 sensor was an O2 sensor and as long as it had the same wiring configuration it didn't matter... guess not

 

[biped]

LIKE I SAID (AM I A GHOST?)

you're not doing it correctly. the main point of two o2 sensors is to read differently, eliminating the cel. even if both o2 sensors worked perfectly you still need anti-foulers which you haven't mentioned yet.

 

[crazyfast]

um, not quite. i have my second O2 bung welded in behind my cat which has less airflow than before the cat, just like it was stock. i put the anti-fowlers on the second O2 sensor and when i checked the codes there was no activity in the second O2 sensor because of the very small amount of air flow. My code reader has not said any thing about the second O2 sensor, unless i have the antifowlers on. The codes that i am getting are strictly the first O2 sensor, not the second one. thanks for the help though.

 

[crazyfast]

so, as it turns out i needed to put a spacer on the first O2 sensor. the guys at o'reillys are now my new heroes. the guy suggested that the exhaust might be moving so fast past the sensor that it couldn't read the gases. he helped me find the spark plug anti-fowlers (he's helped me a lot lately) and he suggested that since i wasn't using them any more to try them on the front. IT FREAKING WORKED!!! :woohoo: that man is a genius. i only have one code left, high heat in the first sensor. i am still getting rid of my premium in my tank, so when i fill up again on regular that might go away... i hope. any way, the car runs so much better now, which makes me very happy! thanks for the help guys!

 

[titaniumMZ3]

I am glad to hear that everything worked out well..

Can you post pics of your headers I am thinking about buying the same ones.

Thanks

Ti.

 

[M3i-NTS]

Can someone explain what a anti-fouler is please?

 

[yomomspimp06]

so now u can tell us what the butt dyno reads....

 

[crazyfast]

the butt dyno feels definite gains, although i am sad to report that the gains are much smaller feeling on regular gas as opposed to 93 octane...

i posted some pics a while ago, but i'll put 'em up again. here ya go:

oh, and an anti-fowler is a basically a piece designed to move the spark plugs a little farther out of the engine so that they don't get damaged (or at least thats what i've been told). go to your local auto parts shop and look around for them. once u see them, u will understand.

so now my only issue is the amount of noise this thing makes with my exhaust. i think i'm gonna get the vibrant ultra quiet resonator and put it in place of the resonator i have now. it should be less restrictive any way because there are no baffles in it.

 

[sergeantmazda]

i got my vibrant header installed today. i think the retards at the shop drilled and welded the o2 bung to the flexpipe and used the anti-foulers on that but either way i havent gotten a CEL (yet). it was dark by the time i finished driving off the awful fumes and got the hood open to look inside. it sounds MEAN in low rpm's with my trubendz 2.5" with high flow cat but when you near redline it gets all raspy honda-ish. it's not unbearably loud and only gets loud at WOT and it seems to actually drone less now than it did without the header. i have a tank full of cheap gas right now and i still feel a big difference mid-range in 2nd and 3rd, can't wait to try it on 93 octane!