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start it up then turn it of after about 15 sec then let it sit for about 3 min and turn it up again and let it warm up
got this info from my dads friend who is a professional rally driver from europe.
the way he explained was that before you start the car the oil is all at the bottom and a quick cycle is needed to get the oil to move around the engine so that it oils up the engine really quick. the 3 min break is needed to let the oil sink in all around the engine
i was really surprised to hear that
 

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Every place inside the engine that needs oil is either fed pressurized oil from the oil pump or gets it's oil from splash/ flinging from rotating parts. The only time this hapens is when the engine is running. The highest wear on an engine is the first 5-10 sec after starting the engine.

My recomendation (and I build race engines for a living) is hold the accelerator on the floor (this causes the ECU to shut off the injectors in case of flooding. Crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Stop cranking take your foot off the throttle and start the engine. Let it run for 1-2 minutes then take it for a drive, I keep the engine speed under 3000 rpm until it is up to full running temp, try to stay out of boost as much as possible (I do this every time I start ANY engine) The best thing you can do is drive it for 30 min and make sure you get the oil up to temp try and evaporate as much moisture as possible out of the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
[quote author=Byron link=topic=134123.msg2883245#msg2883245 date=1232655172]
Every place inside the engine that needs oil is either fed pressurized oil from the oil pump or gets it's oil from splash/ flinging from rotating parts. The only time this hapens is when the engine is running. The highest wear on an engine is the first 5-10 sec after starting the engine.

My recomendation (and I build race engines for a living) is hold the accelerator on the floor (this causes the ECU to shut off the injectors in case of flooding. Crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Stop cranking take your foot off the throttle and start the engine. Let it run for 1-2 minutes then take it for a drive, I keep the engine speed under 3000 rpm until it is up to full running temp, try to stay out of boost as much as possible (I do this every time I start ANY engine) The best thing you can do is drive it for 30 min and make sure you get the oil up to temp try and evaporate as much moisture as possible out of the oil.
[/quote]

Will this not allow the car to "turn-over", but let it crank?

Thanks for the very interesting info guys.
 

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I look at "turn over" and "crank" as the same thing, as long as the crankshaft is truning, the pistons are moving up and down in the cylinders and the valves are opening and closing it is "cranking" if the spark plugs are firing and the engine continuues on it's own (the starter is no longer keeping the crankshaft spinning) then the engine is "running".

Holding the gas pedal hard on the floor and truning the key to the "start" position will "crank" the engine but it will NOT "start". As soon as you let the pedal off the floor the injectors will start to work again and it will start. However I recomend you stop cranking the engine, then take your foot off the throttle, then crank it again otherwise you might wind up with the engine at 4-5000 rpm on a cold engine.
 

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1) Start the car
2) Let the car idle for 5 mins
3) Drive the car (nicely - and out of boost usually in this cold weather for the first 30 mins)

That's what I do.
 

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Letting the car idle for 5 min may be excessive b/c the lube doesn't get up to temp as quickly. Better to let it idle for a min and drive nicely for 5-10 min before driving normally.
 
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