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Discussion Starter #1
Burnt out Power Acoustik Subs smeel just like Burning Clutch.

I was driving along, minding my business, listening to Junior Vasquez's remix of "Love is a battlefield" by Pat benetar, when my sub went out. I was pulling away from a traffic light and I started to smell burning clutch. I have never burnt the clutch in this car so I was SHOCKED to smell it.

When I got home and took the sub out of the box, I nice plume of smoke came out with it. :-?

Now I need to replace my sub. Any suggestions? 10" 4 ohm 300W RMS or 2 ohm 600W RMS.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually it couldn't too much bass. I burned out one VC last week, and the other one, by itself, couldn't handle it.
 

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[quote author=krstofer link=topic=66254.msg1136357#msg1136357 date=1168122554]
Burnt out Power Acoustik Subs smeel just like Burning Clutch.

I was driving along, minding my business, listening to Junior Vasquez's remix of "Love is a battlefield" by Pat benetar, when my sub went out. I was pulling away from a traffic light and I started to smell burning clutch. I have never burnt the clutch in this car so I was SHOCKED to smell it.

When I got home and took the sub out of the box, I nice plume of smoke came out with it. :-?

Now I need to replace my sub. Any suggestions? 10" 4 ohm 300W RMS or 2 ohm 600W RMS.
[/quote]

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficarau...0/shopdata/0040_X/product_overview.shopscript
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Those are hot looking...

This is my problem though. If I get dual 4 ohm and I wire them in series, I have 8 ohm which is high for my amp. If I wire in parallel and get 2 ohm, they need to handle 600w. I'd be better off with the SSD which is dual 1 ohm I can wire in series and it has an 800w RMS.

I've never heard of this company. Any reviews around?
 

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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showforum=51

[quote author=automaticman link=topic=65080.msg1119180#msg1119180 date=1166979195]
Fi has been getting lots of recommendations on some of the other boards around here. They certainly look like pretty nice stuff, and should sound pretty sweet, too! Be sure to give us a review compared to your W7 once you get it in.
[/quote]

And I'll be posting a review once I install my Fi.Q

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/index.php
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4.html
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi
Search those and you should find more reviews. Once you order your sub it takes about 2 days for them to build it then they'll ship it out.
 

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Flat wind can handle a bit more power, and copper is more "sensitive" making the driver sound better while not losing any power handling.
Flatwind does add a little more power handling to the sub, not too mention that they are a larger OD coil and it will increase the motor strength.
Copper coil adds a little more bottom end to things in the SSD. It changes the drivers specs (as copper is less resistive than aluminum and signifcantly heavier) allowing it to be rn in smaller enclosures. For the SSD, it is a little louder down low and somewhat smoother than the standard aluminum coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hmm... That's intresting. Did you get that off the site? I didn't see it there.

I guess if I would probably go with Copper since I wouldnt need more power handling. Do I have to pick one or the other? The page makes it seem like I can choose no for both.
 

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That sucks man- it's never good when you see the 'magic smoke' ,that makes electronics work, leave. I've seen the magic blue smoke a few too many times myself, lol. Anyway, thanks for that info Operator- i'd never known the difference either.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am pretty sure I am gonna get the SSD subs. I might order them in the next week or so. They seem good, and some folks on caraudio.com love them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
[quote author=Zorminster link=topic=66254.msg1136494#msg1136494 date=1168130565]
That sucks man- it's never good when you see the 'magic smoke' ,that makes electronics work, leave. I've seen the magic blue smoke a few too many times myself, lol. Anyway, thanks for that info Operator- i'd never known the difference either.
[/quote]

LOL, If only we could figure a way to bottle that smoke for emergency use. ;-)
 

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Some speakers, like my Focals use hexagonal wire, which is the best. Flat wire is a close second. Flat and Hexagonal wire winds into much more tightly packed coils. Hex wire is best because the wire is close to being round, and it still packs well, but it takes very high precision coil winding especialy for more than one layer. Flat wire doesn't have to worry about getting the next layer exactly in the right place, because the previous layer is flat, but the flat wires don't carry current as efficiently for their weight as hex or round wire.

In addition to the tighter packing, hex and flat wire can make it easier to make the coil very precisely, so the magnetic gap can be made a bit smaller since it doesn't have to allow for so much variation in size, iving the speaker a stronger magnetic field to work with.

Lots of little things can add up, which is why expensive speakers are worth paying for.

As for the earlier problem about 600 watts at 2 ohms burning up your speakers, actually not. Usually, speakers are not burned up from having too much amp, but too little. If you listen to the speaker with non-distorted music playing, you can tell when it is getting close to having trouble and turn it down without hurting it. But when the amp is running out of guts and starts clipping, in a few moments you can get the voice coil really hot. The high frequency hash created by the clipping can't move the really large woofer quickly enough to create mechanical motion, so voice coil heats up instead.

I would recommend getting a good Class-d subwoofer amp. It is really helpful to have a sub amp that is incapable by design of any high frequency hash. Most class-d amps cannot go past 250 hz, which gives them plenty of headroom for a sub that is going to be crossed out at 55 hz or so. They also use power more efficiently. I wonder if you don't have enough juice flowing to your system, which would cause clipping when you are really cranking the bass. A class-d amp may be so much more efficient that you don't have to rewire the power and still get the levels you are looking for.

But because it doesn't have a huge xmax, it is about 4 db more efficient than most car audio woofers. Woofers with large xmax don't have as much of their total voice coil length in the magnetic gap. So they have weaker motors than woofers with less xmax. THey also have heavier voice coils, which also adds to the frictional losses -- you have to have a stiffer surround and spider to hold up the extra weight and thus more energy is wasted warming up the spider and the surround.

This sub, while not really high on xmax has some really good features. For one, it is NOT dual-coil. You don't need it, just power it with a single mono sub amp, which lowers the costs (and as you now appreciate, has less to go wrong). The frame is cast aluminum and the woofer is a stiff but light aluminum cone. It has a really robust spider and surround. It is optimized for accuracy, but if you want to go ported it has a slightly less-accurate sibling at the same price that works well in a ported box.

about $190 including shipping
Power handling: 500 watts RMS/800 watts max
SPL: 90 dB 2.83 V/1m


It has a 10" brother, about $40 less. It requires about a 1 cu ft box, but is less efficient. My 12-inch sub of the same series is mostly loafing in my car, so the 10" would be pretty good.

I really like my Profile Baja only $95 with shipping 300watts + rms from millionbuy.com

I looked up the power acoustic subs on a website, and they don't even bother to mention the X-max. Which implies that it is really embarrasing. They are way too cheap to be any good. It is not surprising that they burned out. The stamped baskets alone are the first indication that they aren't worth buying.

Boxes are cheap btw, so I wouldn't bias your choice to keeping the box you already have.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The power acoustiks were cheap, that's my I bought them (I had two). It lasted for about 2 years with no problems. I didn't even expect them to last that long. When I bought them I didn't know what I wanted to do with the car. I used to have one rockford that kicked ass, but I screwed that sub up.


I didn't say it burned out because of the power and ohms, at least I don't think I did. I don't know exactly why it burned out. All I know is I was listening to the song and it had a lot of bass, then it didn't :-?

Your post is very informative. Thanks. I'm not going to buy a new amp though or a box. I'm keeping money to a minimum as much as I can.

I will look up the focals, the 10" but the box I have is .65 cubic feet.

As for the frequency, I didn't know that. I will see if there is a crossover built into the amp, I know there is one built into the HU that, I believe, can set the frequency going to the sub. I will have to look more into that.
 

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Focal makes very expensive subs. They are probably really well made, but the driver I posted is a Dayton Audio Reference series.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-460

this one is only $110, and about $20 to ship it. It is a very well made driver. It looks very similar to the one I posted earlier, just smaller.

The reason why I suggested a different amp is that you may have damaged the amp. You should at least check it out, and the amp may have been the cause of the failure. My $95 amp has circuitry to detect shorts and shut itself down if it gets too warm or is overdriven. Rather than pass the mistake onto the woofer, it just shuts itself off.

If your speakers were ported, you may find the smell from the old box repulsive too. The other issue is that you have to match the box size to the speaker you are buying. The one I link to needs about 1.2 cu ft (about 15.5 x 15.5 x 13 external size).
 
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