This certianly seems kinda fishy to me, 5-10hp just from this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465025141&category=33574
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465025141&category=33574
grounding wire = HP?
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Well, it couldn't hurt.
The engine is supposed to be grounded to the chassis anyway. This package looks to be of a good deal, though shipping cost is a little high. If it was a $20 kit at the local shop, I'm inclined to buy it and save myself the hassle of cutting, striping, and crimping my own wires.
Anyway, I typically run one fat 2 gauge wire from the negative battery post to the chassis, and a couple of 8 gauge wires from the engine block to the chassis.
The engine is supposed to be grounded to the chassis anyway. This package looks to be of a good deal, though shipping cost is a little high. If it was a $20 kit at the local shop, I'm inclined to buy it and save myself the hassle of cutting, striping, and crimping my own wires.
Anyway, I typically run one fat 2 gauge wire from the negative battery post to the chassis, and a couple of 8 gauge wires from the engine block to the chassis.
How hard is something like this to install (tools required? do you have to get under the car? etc)... would it be a good "first ever mod"? I haven't even installed a new antenna yet 
Is there a chance I could do something horribly wrong or shock myself while playing with the battery?
They don't say much about included instructions... and like dk0280 has mentioned, I wouldn't even know where the grounding points are...
Is there a chance I could do something horribly wrong or shock myself while playing with the battery?They don't say much about included instructions... and like dk0280 has mentioned, I wouldn't even know where the grounding points are...
Say no to kits. Make your own. In car audio, most of the intermediate/advanced people refer to the statement: The Big 3.
Meaning:
1) Ground wire from battery to body
2) Ground wire from battery to engine
3) Power wire from battery to alternator
As for grounding points, anywhere metal. Use existing screws/bolts and sand the paint to bare metal (wire brush on a cordless drill hehe). Ive been talking about doing it but just havent had the time.
Meaning:
1) Ground wire from battery to body
2) Ground wire from battery to engine
3) Power wire from battery to alternator
As for grounding points, anywhere metal. Use existing screws/bolts and sand the paint to bare metal (wire brush on a cordless drill hehe). Ive been talking about doing it but just havent had the time.
Placebo effect. You've got on-plug coils.. grounding isn't going to do anything. The car already came grounded as much as it needs to be. If you've got an upgraded conventional coil ignition, upgrading the stock grounding is worthwhile.. otherwise it's just putting pretty wires on your car and telling your friends you've got +5hp.. it's bull. Stickers weigh less than wires and add the same imaginary +5hp.. use stickers instead.
Hyper Ground Systems, the "generation" tuning system ???? WTF??? I guess if you are the right generation than it will make hp for you. Pretty much bunkum'.
The Miata has the battery in the trunk, and and a very tiny battery to ground cable, so it is about as ground challenged as a car can get. I have never seen a doucumented case of a Miata that was running properly gain a single whp on a dyno from a ground kit. Sure if the ignition was misfiring due to a ground you could see a gain if the ignition stopped misfiring otherwise it is all bs.
I actually added a big flat mesh type ground cable form Wal-mart to my Miata and saw a benefit. I had some intermittent issue with my tach dropping rpms. The car ran fine, no misfiring but for some reason after the blower was installed the tach was erractic. It seemed to be worse in high humidity, or rain, suggesting a grounding problem. I went to the battery cable section at Wal-Mart bought a less than two dollar cable, attached it between my intake manifold casting, and the chassis, and my tach issue went away for good. I attribute the ground problem to all the splices required for my piggy back computer to control fuel under boost.
I seriously doubt the 3 has any designed in ground issues... all the electronics seem pretty robust to me. You can spend your money but if you feel a gain it is probably all in your head. If you really think it is worthwhile, get your car on a dyno, do a baseline, then install the ground wire kit and run another pass or two. We would all love to find a couple of cheap whp. Do the community a favor be a pioneer.
The Miata has the battery in the trunk, and and a very tiny battery to ground cable, so it is about as ground challenged as a car can get. I have never seen a doucumented case of a Miata that was running properly gain a single whp on a dyno from a ground kit. Sure if the ignition was misfiring due to a ground you could see a gain if the ignition stopped misfiring otherwise it is all bs.
I actually added a big flat mesh type ground cable form Wal-mart to my Miata and saw a benefit. I had some intermittent issue with my tach dropping rpms. The car ran fine, no misfiring but for some reason after the blower was installed the tach was erractic. It seemed to be worse in high humidity, or rain, suggesting a grounding problem. I went to the battery cable section at Wal-Mart bought a less than two dollar cable, attached it between my intake manifold casting, and the chassis, and my tach issue went away for good. I attribute the ground problem to all the splices required for my piggy back computer to control fuel under boost.
I seriously doubt the 3 has any designed in ground issues... all the electronics seem pretty robust to me. You can spend your money but if you feel a gain it is probably all in your head. If you really think it is worthwhile, get your car on a dyno, do a baseline, then install the ground wire kit and run another pass or two. We would all love to find a couple of cheap whp. Do the community a favor be a pioneer.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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