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Discussion Starter #21
Painted the rear bumper bar and prepared the rear body of the car for paint.

I used Corroseal after wiring wheeling all of the loose rust from the rear of the body.

All the areas that turned black is where the corroseal found leftover rust that was left behind after wire wheeling. The corroseal will have to cure for a day or two before I can top coat it.

I’m glad I spent a few extra dollars and got the spray can attachment for spray painting. Makes the job so much easier.
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'Appreciate the updates to help other folks and share your experience with that Corroseal. You work's looking real clean. If you haven't already examined your chassis rockers and pinch welds, you might be able to practice the same principles of rust mitigation there. Living in an area with salted-road winters, I had to dump my 90's-era Mazda 626 after the LR pinch weld jack point rusted through; rust there is easy to overlook and let fester, but it eventually becomes cancerous enough to be a structural anxiety and headache. I probably would have driven it another year or two had I been more diligent with the pinch weld rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
'Appreciate the updates to help other folks and share your experience with that Corroseal. You work's looking real clean. If you haven't already examined your chassis rockers and pinch welds, you might be able to practice the same principles of rust mitigation there. Living in an area with salted-road winters, I had to dump my 90's-era Mazda 626 after the LR pinch weld jack point rusted through; rust there is easy to overlook and let fester, but it eventually becomes cancerous enough to be a structural anxiety and headache. I probably would have driven it another year or two had I been more diligent with the pinch weld rust.
When I bought the car i put it up on my lift and inspected the underside. Everything looks ok, no unusual excessive rust.

the previous owner had a hitch bolted to the rear bumper bar. In order to remove it I had to pull the entire back of the car apart. Had I not done that, I probably would’ve noticed the rust at a much much later time.

Transmission looks a little wet in that pic my pivot shaft seal is leaking, I’ve got one on order
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When I bought the car i put it up on my lift and inspected the underside. Everything looks ok, no unusual excessive rust.
Cool. Funny: I tended to my bumper rust when I was installing a hitch. (Yeah, I had to pull the bumper cover to properly torque the upper fasteners.)

Incidentally, I notice your cartridge oil filter. I don't know if the Speeds were suited for the spin-on conversion, but I did that for my 2.3L (normally-aspirated). I'd seen enough posts about a cracked plastic cap causing catastrophic oil loss and engine damage, and the cartridge design just seemed too flawed to me. Did it shortly after buying used, and I've been using spin-ons for over 2 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Cool. Funny: I tended to my bumper rust when I was installing a hitch. (Yeah, I had to pull the bumper cover to properly torque the upper fasteners.)

Incidentally, I notice your cartridge oil filter. I don't know if the Speeds were suited for the spin-on conversion, but I did that for my 2.3L (normally-aspirated). I'd seen enough posts about a cracked plastic cap causing catastrophic oil loss and engine damage, and the cartridge design just seemed too flawed to me. Did it shortly after buying used, and I've been using spin-ons for over 2 years now.
It’s a common mod for the speeds, I bought the correct filter wrench and changed the oil and filter a few days ago. I do plan on changing it to the spin on type. It’s on my list of “supportive/preventative maintenance mods” along with; fuel pump internals, access port, catch can, motor mounts, that kinda stuff.
 

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The rust beneath the bumper reinforcement bar is ubiquitous on these cars. Even in sunbelt cars that never see salt. Wire brush off, naval jelly, rust converter, prime and spray paint. Done. Your reinforcement bar is very heavy metal and the rust is likely superficial. Your repair appears well done to outlast the car.

The most concerning is the trunk rust. This only happens if water gets in there and lingers long enough to create trouble. Be sure to fix the leak to prevent further issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Spoke to someone at corroseal, they told me to wait for the corroseal to fully cure for 2-3 days before painting over it. Told me to test it with a fingernail and if it doesn’t leave an indentation when pressed on then it is ready to paint.

I did notice some moisture in the spare tire well the day after I washed the car. There is some rust along the seam where the rear hatch seal is installed. I’ll be removing the seal, treating the rust, painting, then installing a new hatch seal. Other than the hatch seal and the taillight gaskets, I’m not sure what else would cause water to leak into the trunk.
 

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How about get in trunk and have someone blast the car with a nozzle and then report where you find the leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
How about get in trunk and have someone blast the car with a nozzle and then report where you find the leak?
What I used to do when I worked for a dealer, I would tape a hose to the top of the car pointing towards the rear. Turn the water on then get in the car, with the rear interior stripped to find the leak of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
applied a coat of paint to the rear crash bar mount area last night. I’ll probably only do one coat, it covers well and went on thick. It doesn’t have to be perfect, and color matching isn’t critical as you won’t see the area once the crash bar and bumper cover are installed.
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Hopefully you put a proper self etching primer under that paint or you’ll be doing this again when it peels off.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hopefully you put a proper self etching primer under that paint or you’ll be doing this again when it peels off.
Corroseal advised me to paint directly over their product. Once it cures fully, it becomes a primer
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well....big issues discovered

while prepping the trunk for paint I noticed some corrosion under the rear seats. I removed the rear seat, peeled the carpet back and found that it was wet. The rest of the day consisted of stripping the interior to locate the water leak. Very disappointed
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Well....big issues discovered

while prepping the trunk for paint I noticed some corrosion under the rear seats. I removed the rear seat, peeled the carpet back and found that it was wet. The rest of the day consisted of stripping the interior to locate the water leak. Very disappointed
Sorry to see the disappointment, but I trust you'll be able to find the issue. FWIW, I think sometimes folks have an issue with the rear door drains that causes water to the carpets; I'm not sure whether that would wick through the carpet enough to cause the under-seat rust, or if that's more likely a hatch/rearward issue. If you're spraying a hose over the roof, I'd recommend assessing the antenna mount, roof rack fixed points (under the roof trim; also, scrutinize that seam we talked about before), and the tail light ports.

I appreciate the pics -- I'd not yet seen the bare floor pan. If there's a silver lining, it'll be easier to place sound proofing under the carpet, if you're in to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Sorry to see the disappointment, but I trust you'll be able to find the issue. FWIW, I think sometimes folks have an issue with the rear door drains that causes water to the carpets; I'm not sure whether that would wick through the carpet enough to cause the under-seat rust, or if that's more likely a hatch/rearward issue. If you're spraying a hose over the roof, I'd recommend assessing the antenna mount, roof rack fixed points (under the roof trim; also, scrutinize that seam we talked about before), and the tail light ports.

I appreciate the pics -- I'd not yet seen the bare floor pan. If there's a silver lining, it'll be easier to place sound proofing under the carpet, if you're in to that.
Issue has been located. Under the rain rails there is a factory seem sealed joint where the roof meets the side panels, this is also where the roof rack mounts are located.

My educated guess: the previous owner installed a roof rack, overloaded said roof rack cause the joint to separate. The previous owner than attempted to fix it with gray rtv. This lets water into the roof. The water exits where the pinch weld is that the door weather seals are installed. The water travels down the weather seal and drains into the front floor boards.

Also, the plastic clips that the bumper screws into (located just below the taillights) are leaking as well, but that’s not such a big deal as I can replace those.

Car is going to the body shop today for an estimate on fixing the roof. As well as repainting the hood (rock chips) and maybe touching up a few places here and there.
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Part out? Lol
Honestly, I think RTV silicone would work for that seam, with cleaning the surface well and applying a smoothed bead. That grey job looks truly terrible, like they were in competition for the worst. Looks like they used dried-out Play-Doh :-(

If you end up with an estimate that is too much, and you don't want to sell the car at a loss, I'd recommend scraping away that garbage silicone, doing a bit of the surface prep that you've practiced (but more focused, obviously, so the repair's inconspicuous as possible), and lay down clear RTV silicone (I think that's nicer, to be able to see the joint underneath; go around those fixed points too, for insurance). 3M also makes a "3M All-Around Autobody Sealant" that comes in white and is supposed to be paintable. You could tape off the gutter and I think you could get a pretty good looking result, based on your work so far. The gutter trim is the biggest draw to the eye in that area, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Honestly, I think RTV silicone would work for that seam, with cleaning the surface well and applying a smoothed bead. That grey job looks truly terrible, like they were in competition for the worst. Looks like they used dried-out Play-Doh :-(

If you end up with an estimate that is too much, and you don't want to sell the car at a loss, I'd recommend scraping away that garbage silicone, doing a bit of the surface prep that you've practiced (but more focused, obviously, so the repair's inconspicuous as possible), and lay down clear RTV silicone (I think that's nicer, to be able to see the joint underneath; go around those fixed points too, for insurance). 3M also makes a "3M All-Around Autobody Sealant" that comes in white and is supposed to be paintable. You could tape off the gutter and I think you could get a pretty good looking result, based on your work so far. The gutter trim is the biggest draw to the eye in that area, anyway.
I went to 3 different body shops today for estimates. Only one of them gave me a quote. To clean the gutters (lol), reseal, and paint all the way down to the quarters it would be $2100 from that shop. Way too high.

the other two body shops pretty much told me to bring the car back without the headliner and with the new gutters in Hand (I ordered new gutter trim with all new clips from the dealer, $120)

i removed the headliner this evening. I’ll be going to two different body shops tomorrow
 
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