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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How hard is it to pull the stock fuel pump? And it's located by the turbo inlet, do you have to pull the inlet out to get to it?
Anybody have pics of where exactly it is?
 

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Subbin. I think I might call CP-E and see if I can get a .pdf before I order one.
 

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It is not that difficult but you will need a 17mm and 19mm open wrench and an E8 inverted torx. I removed the battery, battery tray, intake and turbo inlet. Yeah it might have been overkill but I would rather have extra room to work. It doesn't take that long to remove.

Make sure when you are removing the 3 E8 bolts you back them out evenly. Also tie a zip tie below the 19mm nut so it doesn't wander too far down the line.

There is a really good write up, complete with pictures on another forum...
 

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[quote author=Element link=topic=136344.msg2937873#msg2937873 date=1234678856]
There is a really good write up, complete with pictures on another forum...
[/quote]

Been searching all morning, and all I can find is a how to for the internals, not removing or replacing the pump. Can you post a link.....with spaces lol?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I saw the write up but it doesn't actually tell you how to remove the pump itself mainly how to rebuild it.
 

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http://www. mazdas 247 .com/forum/showthread.php?t=123719261

Remove spaces
 

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Ryz...that's what I've already found. That shows you how to do the internals AFTER the pump has been removed. We want to see how to remove the pump itself first.
 

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He discusses removal at the start.

Start with the car cold preferably.Remove the smaller blue relay in the under hood fuse box that says “circuit“.
Start the car and it should die when the fuel pressure runs low in 10 seconds. (if not the car being cold means the gas can't really catch fire though it will spray out at high pressure)Remove the entire battery box/ecu and turbo inlet hose if you want to make things easier for your self.
Locate the solid steel line under the CDFP and put a zip tie an inch under the 19mm nut.
This keeps the nut from wandering too far down the line.
Remove the 2 upper fuel lines and electrical connector.
The yellow clip hugs the plastic and has to be opened on both sides while slid out.
The blue clip has a twist motion to release the line.
Simultaneously use the 17mm open end to hold the lower base of the CDFP (this CAN NOT SPIN!!!) and the 19mm to break the nut loose (it will spin off easily once broken loose).
Use the E8 inverted torx to remove the 3 screws (back them out evenly as to not cock the spring loaded pump mechanism).
I will say that all that was the hard part and things will be easier from here on out.We are starting with this.
 

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As someone else posted he explains the removal in the walkthrough. It is very straight forward once you have everything apart. Just take your time and go slow. I did this over the past week 3 times and I have very limited experience working on cars.
 

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[quote author=tagkat link=topic=136344.msg2938397#msg2938397 date=1234721186]
Approx how long do you think it will take.

[/quote]

First time took me about 30-45 minutes and that was with removing everything. Everytime after took about 20 minutes.
 

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the pump is somewhat simple to remove and you do not have to remove anything to get it out. a 19mm wrench, and the E8 torx is really all you need. Friend just did mine and we had two pumps swapped in no time.

There are 3 torx bolts and the hardline which you need the open ended wrenches for. Just make sure you put a ziptie on the hardline otherwise the connector may slide down too far and become tough to get to.

good luck with the install. definitely a great upgrade
 

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::Cough:: http://krystmsgarage.com/?p=180 ::Cough:: did this a few days ago pretty easy stuff and yes the inlet has to be removed. Which is a PITA itself but not too bad just 1 10 MM holds it to the engine. and it is a E8 Inverted Torx you can get them individually at Advanced Auto. I bought a 35$ set at Sears... yeah thats going back today....
 
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