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Front strut install...additional tips

41K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  noobinacan 
#1 ·
Guys,

I installed Koni Yellows on my 2007 speed3 this weekend and wanted to add a little more detail for those who DIY. I didnt find these details in the write ups I read so I thought I would help clarify. This applies to any front strut you install. (BTW, back struts are very easy to do)

The "nub" that they mention on the strut bearing/seat which folks mention having to line up with the spring is as follows: The nub should line up with the end of the spring. This is simply so the spring seats correctly.





The bottom of the spring should sit like this:





As for the headache of getting the old FRONT strut out and the new FRONT strut in...

1. Spray the old strut where it meets the suspension with the some WD 40 or penetrating oil first.

2. Use the emergency jack, as many others have noted, to push the bottom of the spring seat, but ALSO use a crowbar to pry the inner side of the spring seat up as well. This helps.

3. Spread the receiver open with the crowbar...this will help get the old strut unstuck and the new strut in. See the crowbar?:



Dont be afraid to push down on the brake rotor to help push the receiver/hub away from the old strut...this will help pop the old front strut out.

4. After you have the new strut partially installed, note that the metal peice in this picture needs to go in the gap betweene the 2 halves of the receiver and all the way in, to allow the bolt through to reach the threads at the other side. In the pic below its only halfway in...you need to keep forcing it down.



You can use the same jack to help push the strut into place....make sure and grease it with anti-seize or any lube.



5. When you have the new front strut all the way in, you may need to squeeze the 2 halves of the receiver back together to get the bolt to meet the threads at the correct angle...as in, straight on. Just use a cheapy clamp to squeeze it back together:






Other misc.:

Koni's picture instructions are a pathetic JOKE. They have got to be kidding.

I reused the OEM bolts on the top of the strut that are visible thru the strut tower in the engine bay because they are TALLER than the one KONI supplies, which makes it easier to tighten with a regular wrench. I also used the Koni supplied lock washer.

I was unable to torque the same top bolt to spec with a crows foot, on or off the car. When I had it off the car and in a vice, I couldnt get the leverage with the long torque wrench in one hand and the tiny 10mm wrench in the other. I just tightened as best I could once it was mounted in the car. Fingers crossed.

I did not reinstall this yellow OEM "cup" on the new Koni Yellow struts....I left them out to increase suspension travel. What did you guys do? I know the KONI FSD owners take it out to allow the FSDs to work properly.



My rear bumpstops were perfectly in-tact. I installed the OEMs again. The front were destroyed. I installed new OEMs. They look to be a different color than the ones I took out. The new OEMs were grey. The old ones were yellow, as per pic.



I ordered new strut bearings, seats and stops from onlinemazdparts but I dont know that they need changing. They looked perfect at $59,000 miles. Maybe just some grease in the bearings. Bearings, seats and bump-stops for both fronts was $185...not sure it was justified.

Will give impression of Yellows in a few days.

Any comments?
 
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#3 ·
You are so very welcome.

BTW, my struts have not given me any problems whatsoever. I suppose that means I did the install correctly. This includes not reinstalling the yellow "cup" in the rears and using the new OEM front bumpstops.

Youre gonna LOVE the struts.

P.S. If you have a choice, get the shortest spring compressor you can find. The long ones I got from Advance Auto were so long that they would hit the strut and limit how much I could compress the spring.
 
#5 ·
I did this a while back and was struggling to get the strut back in. Then I found a forum that said to turn the wheels all the way left or right (can't exactly remember) and the strut will slide right in. It worked great, did not need any crowbars or jacks to get the strut remounted.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I don't understand how you guys have been able to do this. I've been fighting with the driver's side strut for a couple of hours and cannot get it to seat. I've torn the ball joint boot in the process, which probably doesn't matter since it's due for replacement anyway, but I'm very frustrated. The replacement strut is identical to the old, original strut.

I coated both it and the knuckle with Anti-Seize and have tried turning the steering wheel to no avail. What the hell?

**Update**

I had to finagle the damn thing (i.e. hold my tongue *just right*) and I got it to pop into place.

Major PITA.
 
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