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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure what engine it is but looks like it could be usefull info..Could be the 6 cylinder though. Should be simular..I am trying to find the best/easiest way to hook up oil pressure/temp gauges. Any ideas?

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=68529&hl=oil+pressure+gauge


http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=68514&hl=oil+pressure+gauge

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=63725&hl=oil+pressure+gauge

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=48145&hl=oil+pressure+gauge

Oil system diagram.

http://forum.mazda6tech.com/about4207.html


Guess I shoulda looked over in the 6 forums a long time ago.
 

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You can get a Ford oil cooler kit that has the oil cooler ports in the same direction. This will be a direct bolt on and will change from a cartridge filter to the standard spin-on. Then you can add a sandwhich plate with ports for oil temp and oil pressure.

I wouldn't Tee both sending units off the oil filter housing as you run the risk of it either breaking off or loosening up.

I have the Cosworth oil cooler setup and the water lines ran the same as the MS3. The sandwhich plate does drop the filter 1 1/2" closer to the ground, but should not be an issues unless you run over a parking block. But was a way better option than having a bunch of Tees hanging off the fitler housing.

You can also keep the stock filter assemble and just run a steel braided line up to a secure place where you can mount it to the block and added a Tee and run your oil pressure and oil temp from there.

There are a few optoins out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like good ideas. Only issue with going to spin on might be warrenty. Might have to go the line from factory sender location to a remotely mounted tee. Could barbed fittings be used? Could they take the pressure/heat. Someone mentioned this here. http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=48145&hl=oil+pressure+gauge . I definitly would not want to make my car more prone to leaks or less reliable.
 

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[quote author=redms3gt link=topic=69150.msg1198823#msg1198823 date=1171086658]
Sounds like good ideas. Only issue with going to spin on might be warrenty. Might have to go the line from factory sender location to a remotely mounted tee. Could barbed fittings be used? Could they take the pressure/heat. Someone mentioned this here. http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=48145&hl=oil+pressure+gauge . I definitly would not want to make my car more prone to leaks or less reliable.

[/quote]

Yeah the conversion of the spin-on can/will effect the warranty.
Most fittings will work just fine.
You will need to get under there and plan out what fittings and how long of a briaded line you will need. But that will be the best route and the cheapest.
Just makes sure to use teflon tape and that the fittings are on tight so you don't get any leaks.
This is why I went with the sandwhich plate as it got rid of all of the Tees, 45*, 90* elbos needed to get it to work. It is pretty cramped in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like a PITA. I was hoping for a oil gally plug or something. Oil temp could go in the pan. What about the plug in the bottom of the plastic filter cover? Would make changing the filter worse than it already is. I was thinking oil temp and pressure. But by looking at the pressure you can kinda tell the oil is getting hotter and loosing some viscosity. Could the sensor just be switched out for the stock one and just give the dash light whatever it needs to stay off. Open/closed circuit? Maybe specific resistance. I guess it "idiot light"really wouldent be needed if I got an aftermarket pressure gauge with warnings. You could almost just tap and thread the oil temp somewhere metal in/on the block to give a relative temp of the engine buy then why waste the money and just get EGT or Wideband.
 

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Well here is what i did and it works awsome oil presure and i can tap for oil temp $12 in parts from Home Depot and 1 hour of work :p (Defi Gauges) enjoy the pics































 

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I think I need a few more pictures for clarification ;-)

Nice work, lots of detail on what in and around that space as I haven't looked yet. Couple of questions:
* Did you have to pull the oil filter mount out to get your fittings in place? (looks like no but thought I'd still ask)
* What is the thread specs of the stock OP sender?
* Could you give a list of the parts you used?
* Did you need to drain the oil before doing all this?

Cheers
Jon
 

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Just losen the bolts to make room for the fittings
no need to drain oil but you will lose a litl oil from the filter

ill post the pics of the bags i got from HD will all part numbers :D

[quote author=spedwards link=topic=69150.msg1223070#msg1223070 date=1172115780]
I think I need a few more pictures for clarification ;-)

Nice work, lots of detail on what in and around that space as I haven't looked yet. Couple of questions:
* Did you have to pull the oil filter mount out to get your fittings in place? (looks like no but thought I'd still ask)
* What is the thread specs of the stock OP sender?
* Could you give a list of the parts you used?
* Did you need to drain the oil before doing all this?

Cheers
Jon
[/quote]
 

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That should be cool, from the looks of the HD website I should be able to get any extra information from there. We don't have the HD franchise in Australia...

Just to confirm cause I'm no plumber - 1/4" NPT has 18 threads per inch according to Wikipedia, is that correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks 4 the pics. I was thinking of doing a simular setup but wasent sure if there was room there for a tee. Instead of a pipe of was thinking of running a AN4 or 6 braided hose to a tee mounted somewhere like near the airbox. Looks good though. What size fittings did you use 1/4"npt. I see the adapter to the 1/8"npt for the aftermarket sensor I think. So you loosened the housing for the oil filter. I can see the bolts backed out here..

There were no issues like needing to get new gaskets or anything I presume. What kind of pressures are you seeing? :yay: Heres what I've been doing waiting 4 my new gauges. CAI, bushings,AWR mount.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkdkdeciXxw

I'm to slow..thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I was thinking of using some AN lines and fittings for my oil pressure sensor hook up. Anyone have a experience with what size would be appropriate. 4,6,8 AN.
A 1/4"npt to an AN size adapter.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...-FBM2004&N=700+400274+300068+115&autoview=sku
90deg 6AN adapter to a braided hose.


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...-FBM4032&N=700+400274+306620+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...300079+4294782995+4294906619+115&autoview=sku
Then run it to wherever and and another and anoter 6AN to 1/4"npt to a tee.


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...-FBM1012&N=700+400274+306620+115&autoview=sku


1/4" to 1/8 for sensor reducer.

Could also possible use one of these 6AN to 1/4" npt somewhere to elliminate the tee at the end and mount the aftermarket sensor here.


http://store.summitracing.com/partd...-FBM2276&N=700+400274+300075+115&autoview=sku


This should be bullit proproof and able to handle 350deg and hundreds and pounds of pressure. Plus there would be never an issue with the weight of the tees,adapters, and sensors cracking leaking onder the leverage near the first extension. Overkill? I think the copper fitting should be fine for a long time but they dont flex. It anything ever hit them or motor vibration over years could jar them loose and cause a leak. I just want a super, better than factory setup.
 

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Just as an FYI, here's how I have my oil pressure currently done... not a Speed but shows the same idea. Looks like you guys have less room?

 

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Need to mark this thread....

Seems like work... i got a oil press/oil temp/boost comeing in this week...
 

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My recomendation is use a fitting at the oil filter housing and a hose to run to the "T" for the senders. Brass has a very bad habit of cracking at the base of the threads when subjected to heat and vibration, with the weight of the senders hanging off that 1/4NPT thread I would worry about it over time. I have seen way to many people try that on race cars and have the fitting brake, dumping all the oil out of the engine (some did not catch it in time and toasted their engines)

Just my $0.02
 

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[quote author=Byron link=topic=69150.msg1230326#msg1230326 date=1172370945]
My recomendation is use a fitting at the oil filter housing and a hose to run to the "T" for the senders. Brass has a very bad habit of cracking at the base of the threads when subjected to heat and vibration, with the weight of the senders hanging off that 1/4NPT thread I would worry about it over time. I have seen way to many people try that on race cars and have the fitting brake, dumping all the oil out of the engine (some did not catch it in time and toasted their engines)

Just my $0.02
[/quote]

I second this. I ran the brass fittings for a while and you always have to worry about it breaking of loosening from vibrations.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Pressure should be pressure. As long as the hose isnt providing a restriction it should be basically the same at the end of a hose. I dont see even a 3ft hose causing a restriction. Maybe 10-20 feet but even then there should not be a substancial drop in pressure without a leak. I just wonder is 4AN would be big enough but I am thinking I will go 6AN just to be safe. Also anyone have any exsperiance with the socketless fittings. They look easier to assemble but in my summit catalog they say only good to 300 deg not a pressure rating.
 

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-3 or -4 is more than big enough, the only time the hose diameter or run makes any difference is when there is actual fluid flow going on. We like -4 hose to dash mounted mechanical gauges because the gauge reacts faster when the oil is cold but when you are using a electric gauge and you only need a few inches of hose to get to the sender -3 is more than big enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I ordered the 6AN fittings and lines already..about an hour ago. only a few bucks more than the 4AN size. I was shooting for something which looked about the same size as the 1/4" hole coming out of the oil filter houseing. It shouldent hurt anything I hope. Cost was about 65dollors including shipping for and 1/4"npt to 6AN adapter 6AN 90 degree, 3 ft 6AN braided hose, 6AN end fitting, 6AN to 1/4 tee with 1/8" side port for the aftermarket sensor. Female to Female for the end of the tee so the stock can mount there. I take some pics and post them when I get everything together and installed.
 
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