[Zabusa]

Well, this is my first anything n these forums but im laxed because looking through everyone seems really helpful. Okay so heres my story. I buy an 04 mazda 3 2.3 from a shady dealer. Turns out the cars been in an accident. Driver side front wheel impact. When I first leave the dealer only a low clunking sound was heard when I went over bumps. I thought sounds like a strut, No biggie. Anyway, learning to drive stickshift, I end up stalling it a few and the usual dropped clutch. Day 2. I turn on my car to find the check engine light on. I quickly rush to autoZone to get them checked, **Coolant temp below regulated temp** was code one **System too rich at idle** was number 2. As the day goes by, I Noticed the cars previous clunk noise on just the drivers side began on passenger side. Now im like, man whats the deal here. All of a sudden, my car starts shaking a bit much at idle and a high pitched chatter develops. I change spark plugs then go to my friend's house. After leaving, A really NASTY noise comes out of nowhere sounds like something that spins is rubbing against something else. I take it to my mechanic, and i get a list $1200 long. Broken motor mounts, tanny mount, need new sway links, and new struts on all wheels as well as a new strut mount on front driver side (where accident impact was) also frame is a little bent. Today all noises just basically worsened including a bad set of clunks, about 3-4 when downshifting where the car is shaking a bit slowing down. And the bad spinning noise that seemed to come and go (and was only heard when clutch was engaged and I was accelerating) is now worse and can be heard when revving the engine even in neutral. i need al the help I can get cuz im on my own on this one. I signed an AS IS form the dealer so i cant do nothingm and this all happened within the fisrt 3 days of owning the car. I still havent gotten a true diag for the check engine but signs point to bad coolant temp sensor. If any of you guys could help me out I would appreciate it. I will post a link to a vid soon so you can hear the spinning noise, It sound expensive. Thanks in advance.

 

[balding geezer]

If you bought the car "as is" then I doubt you can do much except pay to get the thing fixed. If there was some written documentation as to the car's condition then maybe you'd have some recourse but generally "as is" means you take what you get and hope for the best. I've been there and it is a bad feeling when you realise how bad you got hosed.

 

[Zabusa]

Well, I realize Im screwed regardless. What I really want to do is completely repair the car because I absolutely LOVE IT. I jast find myself liking it less and less because of all these noises. I just need some help figuring out the spinning noise. I know absolutly nothing about mechanics but I want to say it sounds like the flywheel is bent or something happened to it (loose?), I will post video soon. Until then, If you guys can point me in the right direction to get some parts I would appreciate it.

 

[sweetface]

My question is: Why would you purchase a car when you already heard noises prior to buying it?
Unfortunately it sounds like you're going to need a big straw and suck it up and pay for the repairs. Sorry...:dunno:

 

[Adam3324]

The spinning sound could be a couple of things possibly a bad throw-out bearing, a video would help more.

 

[lucaspl88]

clunking over speed bumps.. definitely sway bar endlinks...
motormounts are a really common problem...
throw out bearing might be out.. so new clutch probably...

 

[rickfogle]

Spinning noise might also be one of the pulleys binding, or maybe the AC compressor.

 

[lucaspl88]

also in a manual.. tranny likes to "whine" like a small vortech supercharger

 

[Zabusa]

Thanks guys I really appreciate the help. I got the bearings checked out and they were fine. My clutch makes no noise or grind or anything when I engage/disengage and the stealer checked green on the report card so not the clutch. Also, I have a new question. Since the CEL was annoying me I unplugged the negative battery terminal. The light went off but it feels like the car is sluggish now, like the rpm's dont really pick up the car as much as before. Did the ECU get reset or do I have a bigger problem in my hands?

 

[ionorick]

the clunk is either your front sway links are loose or check the top strut and make sure everything is tightened down. I don't really think you needed to change those plugs cuz they should still be good im still on my stock spark plugs on my 04. You could really need new motor mounts because a lot of people on this forum complain about them blowing because, if i remember, their filled with like something so that they are not a solid mount. The spin noise could be from a multiple of things but I can't really say anything about that right now. 04-05 has had a problem with the coolant fluid running really cool but thats because of your thermostat, it needs to be replaced. I bought that and changed it myself for 50 bucks im not sure how much their charging you for that but ive heared just 300-400 for that from other people on the forums.

 

[Zabusa]

Definitely a good place to start on the coolant temp. I happened to come across something, I notice that my engine is revving way high and not goin too far for the power its putting out. Noticed it happened after I reset the Check engine light by taking off the negative battery terminal. Does anyone have any ideas? Flywheel/ Clutcha area maybe? Dunno, it just feels like the engines power is not transferring well to the wheels.

 

[lucaspl88]

purge valve solenoid is my first guess.. i have similar symptoms... so ill try to change it soon and let u guys know
next thing would be throw out bearing.. clutch might not be fully engaged.. thats why u see engine reving but no power/torque transferred..
next i would say MAF sensor.. causing the car to run rich/lean and tripping the "limp" mode..

 

[Zabusa]

thanks man i will definitely lt my mechanic nwo to check these things out because its driving me nuts right now. The CEL light is off but i can feel something else is wrong? And do I have to get the ECU reflashed to th lates version since I disconnected the battery?

 

[lucaspl88]

[quote author=Zabusa link=topic=138213.msg2980525#msg2980525 date=1236458996]
thanks man i will definitely lt my mechanic nwo to check these things out because its driving me nuts right now. The CEL light is off but i can feel something else is wrong? And do I have to get the ECU reflashed to th lates version since I disconnected the battery?
[/quote]
no.. you dont need to reflash anything.....
if u still have a CEL.. check MAF sensor, and also the purge valve solenoid.

 

[Zabusa]

Cool bro, thanks a bajillion to everyone, the light has stayed off thankfully hoping things will go back to normal when I get all the repairs done. I will update on tuesday after I get 3 of my mounts put in and see what it fixed.

 

[04Mazda3Sport]

The high reving you notice after taking off the negative battery cable is normal. The computer has to relearn the shift points as well as the correct idle rpm. Normal driving is one way to let it relearn, but there is a proper technique to get it done faster and correctly. I'll try to find it and post it.

 

[Zabusa]

That would be great because i still think im pushing my car a bit and the ride/ acceleration has definitely changed.

 

[Zabusa]

Also, can anyone tell me what their car RPMs are like. Like when you shift where does the needle usually sit and at how much do you usually shift again. Also, if anyone can tell me what their RPMs are at 80 MPH on 5th gear I would appreciate it, it seems like mine are sitting kind of high...

 

[rickfogle]

Cruising RPM's would depend on your transmission. I'm a 5spd ATX and mine runs just a hair over 3K at 80 MPH.

 

[Zabusa]

okay so maybe im not too far off, I got the 5spd MTX and im just a bit under 4k RPM at 80MPH....can anyone with a MTX let me know what theirs is like?