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Greetings, just checking to see if anyone knows about or has had some experience on this problem.
I have a 2004 and I bought it used with 11,000 miles on it.
I have used Mobil 1 since I had it.
The car developed what sounded a clicking sound and I solved that by putting in some Risoline and that did the trick.
Around 90,000 miles it started to be a 1/2 quart down and then got progressively worse..
I just came back from a trip to Michigan and I was stopping for gas and oil check at every 1/2 tank.
Going around 190 miles per half tank and adding a 1/2 to a full quart per half a tank of gas. Driving around 75mph, the entire trip was about 1500 miles and I went thru almost 6 quarts of oil.
I have no leaks, nor is the engine wet. My tail pipe is carboned up but I also do not see any smoke coming out the tail pipe on either accelerating or when its backing down.
I am going to bring it in for a compression check next week.
I am thinking that it might be a valve seal....not sure because even though I was driving fairly steady my oil consumption was up and down.

Any thoughts or help would be great.
Thanks, Joe
 

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Yep, that's disturbing oil consumption. I'll suggest my standard theory in these cases - the PCV valve. The location on our engines discourages checking and/or replacement of the PCV valve so I expect it is still original. At 90,000+ miles it would not be surprising for it to fail. Of course at that mileage it could also be valve seals, rings, even a head gasket so it is a good idea to get a compression test or, even better, a leakdown test.
 

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My car 2004 2.3 DOHC ate up 3 quarts oil in 2 weeks, don't smoke, head just rebuilt, the PCV valve was rattling and appears to be working. where is the oil going? I have read on this forum that there is a lot of people with the same problem (oil consummation) and it happens all of a sudden. is there a problem with the Mazda 2004 2.3 engine. Is it worth keeping this engine? any Ideas on problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,
I am planning to have my PVC valve replaced as I have read that this has a active part in sending the oil somewhere. The position of the PVC must have been placed there by the knucklehead as I am finding out that the intake manifold has to be removed to get at it.
I looked over the engine today and did not see any oil, only a bit where I spilled some when adding..My car on this recent trip did not go thru it evenly, on one fill up and oil check it was only down a 1/2 qt. The next half tank of gas when the oil was checked it was down a quart plus.
I really don't know where the hell its going, but I check it like crazy as I do not want or can afford the engine to seize up......I have not had a great response to this problem but thanks for your input.
I also just had the trans rebuilt....$1800....Mazda dealer wanted $3500.
Thanks Joe
 

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Yeah, there doesn't seem to be a lot of (any?) reliable info about why some Mazda3s seem to suddenly start using lots oil. There are lots of guesses and my suggestion about the PCV valve is just one guess among many. But if there are no external leaks and no cross contamination between the oil and coolant then some sort of internal consumption is the only option left. The only choices here are leakage into the cylinders where the oil is burned or leakage into the cooling system.

My experience leads me to believe if the rings or head gasket suddenly started leaking enough to lose 6 qts of oil in 1500 miles there would be a noticeable loss of power just from the loss of compression. Valve guides/seals worn badly enough to allow that kind of consumption are also going to show some loss of power - if there is that much play between the valves and guides they just aren't going to seal very well at the valve seats, again causing loss of compression (and probably some noise). A head gasket could fail in a location which allows oil to escape somewhere but doesn't affect cylinder sealing but the oil would still have to go somewhere, the cooling system being the only internal option. Pushing 6 qts of oil into the cooling system in 1500 miles is going leave very obvious evidence and probably leakage from the expansion reservoir on the passenger strut tower - there simply is not room in the cooling system to pump 6 qts of oil in there so some sort of external leak would have to develop if the oil is going there. A failed rear main seal will leak a lot of oil in a hurry but if you pump 6 qts into the bell housing in 1500 miles there would definitely be some very obvious external leakage. And if the car has a manual transmission that much oil in the bell housing would definitely cause major clutch slippage.

Given the location of the PCV valve, the fact it is under steady vacuum during cruise conditions and the likelihood it has never been replaced on most Mazda3s I honestly believe it is the most likely culprit when oil consumption suddenly spikes. But it is easier, and probably cheaper, to do a compression or (better) leak down test on these engines than it is to replace the PCV valve so before you get into the hassle and expense of removing the intake manifold it makes sense to check if the cylinders are sealed tight first. If you get a good leak down test then you know it is worth replacing the PCV valve.

EDIT - I suppose on an engine with 90,000+ miles it is possible a valve seal could fail. They are made of some sort of plastic/rubber type material and over time this kind of stuff can get hard and crack or crumble. The material used for valve seals should be able to stand up to heat for extended periods but if a seal did crack, crumble or just come unseated from the top of the guide then that could certainly result in a sudden increase in oil consumption. This would be especially apparent during highway cruise conditions, where the engine is turning 2,000-3000 rpm and thus pumping lots of oil and intake vacuum is fairly high.

But my gut still likes the PCV valve. The crankcase vapours flowing through it contain oil, moisture, some fuel and other blow-by gases, basically the perfect combo of crud to gum up a fiddly little valve that balances intake vacuum against a fairly light little spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your input......its like a disappearing act, no excessive oil in the cooling system, but I think that I need to find out what the deal is as I do not want to fry the catalytic converter
thanks,
Joe
 

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I had had the head reworked when I replaced the connecting rod bearings, I checked my plugs today and #2 & 3 plugs are oiled up pretty bad (This after 600 miles on plugs) My question is if the rings were worn shouldn't all cyl. show oil. I am hoping that the PVC (above # 3 intake) is causing the problem. Any Suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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I just read this on apa.ca.... wierd.

Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 : 2.3 l engine failure and clogged catalytic converter : An unusually high number of catastrophic failures of 2.3 l engines has been reported to the APA. Abnormal oil consumption typically precedes these failures. Frequently, an obstruction of the catalytic converter occurs simultaneously. If your vehicle has been plagued with either one of these problems, do not hesitate to fill our complaint form.
Not saying thats it, but a bit of a coincidence...
 

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My 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 just recently started using a crap ton of oil on highway drives I drove to Charlotte NC on Thursday 141 miles 1 way and on my return trip my engine seemed louder than usual so I pulled into a truck stop to let it cool off and check the fluids to my surprise the dipstick was completely dry it was 2.5 quarts low before I left that day it was full my car has 255,826 miles on it and this just started happening. Today I drove about 65 miles to another town to go fishing and everything ran great until the trip home it got loud on the highway again so I stopped and checked the oil and it was a quart low it's been just 3 days since I filled it up I run about 70 on the highway no hard pulls or racing just driving like normal. Is it possible that my engine is about to detonate on itself or is there hope if fixing it before this happens? I'm in the USA and cannot afford an engine swap or even a new car on a very tight budget at the moment and I need to make another drive to Charlotte on Tuesday this week. If I keep oil in the engine is it likely to still lock up or should it be ok? This seems to be a million dollar question has anyone had any luck on fixing this yet
Thank you
David
 

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My 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 just recently started using a crap ton of oil on highway drives I drove to Charlotte NC on Thursday 141 miles 1 way and on my return trip my engine seemed louder than usual so I pulled into a truck stop to let it cool off and check the fluids to my surprise the dipstick was completely dry it was 2.5 quarts low before I left that day it was full my car has 255,826 miles on it and this just started happening. Today I drove about 65 miles to another town to go fishing and everything ran great until the trip home it got loud on the highway again so I stopped and checked the oil and it was a quart low it's been just 3 days since I filled it up I run about 70 on the highway no hard pulls or racing just driving like normal. Is it possible that my engine is about to detonate on itself or is there hope if fixing it before this happens? I'm in the USA and cannot afford an engine swap or even a new car on a very tight budget at the moment and I need to make another drive to Charlotte on Tuesday this week. If I keep oil in the engine is it likely to still lock up or should it be ok? This seems to be a million dollar question has anyone had any luck on fixing this yet
Thank you
David
Sorry buddy, but you are in need of an engine replacement. Congrats on getting 225k miles on your current engine (seriously). The 2.3L engines are notorious for having oil consumption problems. There might be some oil consumption threads like this one, but the rest of the oil consumption talk is embedded within the engine swap threads. Basically the oil is getting in the exhaust system and is trapped by your catalytic converters. You can drive you car and keep checking/filling oil to prevent your engine from seizing, but you will need to replace you cats at some point, and that will be expensive too.

In the worst cases I think people were adding a quart of oil every 400 miles or so. But that just isn't sustainable. I don't know what kind of shape your car is in. 13yrs can be pretty darn old, or not too bad! If you don't need new suspension or a new interior, then please do consider an engine swap with a 2.5L late model Ford duratec engine.

Cheers, and good luck to you.
 

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Sorry buddy, but you are in need of an engine replacement. Congrats on getting 225k miles on your current engine (seriously). The 2.3L engines are notorious for having oil consumption problems. There might be some oil consumption threads like this one, but the rest of the oil consumption talk is embedded within the engine swap threads. Basically the oil is getting in the exhaust system and is trapped by your catalytic converters. You can drive you car and keep checking/filling oil to prevent your engine from seizing, but you will need to replace you cats at some point, and that will be expensive too.

In the worst cases I think people were adding a quart of oil every 400 miles or so. But that just isn't sustainable. I don't know what kind of shape your car is in. 13yrs can be pretty darn old, or not too bad! If you don't need new suspension or a new interior, then please do consider an engine swap with a 2.5L late model Ford duratec engine.

Cheers, and good luck to you.
I had never heard about oil consumption being an issue with these cars until a year ago. My car has 156K miles on it and, just by chance, I discovered two spark plugs with oil on the threads during a regular service interval last year. One had a good amount of oil on the threads, while the other had a smattering of oil, with no oil on the third or fourth plugs.

Searching the issue led to results which detailed the OE valve cover gasket to be faulty and that Mazda had redesigned it. I replaced the valve cover gasket while replacing the plugs, O2 sensors, and other maintenance items. That makes me wonder if the consumption issue is due to the valve cover gasket issue.
 

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I had never heard about oil consumption being an issue with these cars until a year ago. My car has 156K miles on it and, just by chance, I discovered two spark plugs with oil on the threads during a regular service interval last year. One had a good amount of oil on the threads, while the other had a smattering of oil, with no oil on the third or fourth plugs.

Searching the issue led to results which detailed the OE valve cover gasket to be faulty and that Mazda had redesigned it. I replaced the valve cover gasket while replacing the plugs, O2 sensors, and other maintenance items. That makes me wonder if the consumption issue is due to the valve cover gasket issue.
Interesting, I bought a 2.0 liter 5-Speed 2009 Mazda3 i Touring Value Edition back in late 2008 to use as the vehicle to teach my soon to be 16 year old son how to drive a stick. The dealership offered me a late 2008 Mazda3 s Sport with basically the same equipment except the larger 2.3 motor for the exact same price; a quick perusal of Mazda sites in 2008 told me to stay away from the 2.3, and as such, I opted for the 2.0.
 

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CHEAPER THEN GOING TO A SHOP:

I may commend for 30 bucks to send a sample your oil to Black Lavs.
When you get your report back to you it will indicate things contaminating the oil which should make it easy to point the worn or damage internal engine parts.

Back in the day.. when I owned/operated my Performance Engine Machine shop part of my warranty for engines was should there be any question I would have the oil checked. This not only indicated the damaged part but also if it was a failing either due to a fault in the part (defective) or the usage...(over reving the engine)
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/


Here is my first one I had done with my M3. I think some may find the report interesting.

[URL="[/URL]
 

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:(
Greetings, just checking to see if anyone knows about or has had some experience on this problem.
I have a 2004 and I bought it used with 11,000 miles on it.
I have used Mobil 1 since I had it.
The car developed what sounded a clicking sound and I solved that by putting in some Risoline and that did the trick.
Around 90,000 miles it started to be a 1/2 quart down and then got progressively worse..
I just came back from a trip to Michigan and I was stopping for gas and oil check at every 1/2 tank.
Going around 190 miles per half tank and adding a 1/2 to a full quart per half a tank of gas. Driving around 75mph, the entire trip was about 1500 miles and I went thru almost 6 quarts of oil.
I have no leaks, nor is the engine wet. My tail pipe is carboned up but I also do not see any smoke coming out the tail pipe on either accelerating or when its backing down.
I am going to bring it in for a compression check next week.
I am thinking that it might be a valve seal....not sure because even though I was driving fairly steady my oil consumption was up and down.

Any thoughts or help would be great.
Thanks, Joe
And if you're doing the PCV valve do the nox sensor at the same time
 
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