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Discussion Starter #1
Took pics of the door panel removed, to prove whats under it. The verdict:

5x7" LAME ass ford speakers with what looks to be a 3/4" tweeter. Pics here > Door Panel Pics

Only took a few, but will be taking hundreds during the install of my system!

Stay tuned :twisted:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Kazbaeden said:
What do you mean by "No gay saran wrap" ?
If you take off a door panel on almost any other car.. there is a plastic "film" that guards the panel from getting wet.

In the 3, its 1/4" plastic. Thats what you call quality.
 

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:shock:

Geez! You mean no more stock pioneer speakers. Even though they were cheap, they sounded ok good on the protege.
 

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Whaddya expect for a compact car?! Fortunately the audio system is probably one of the easiest upgrades.

That's good news for me. I can use my Infinity and JBL's from my
Tribute for the door speakers! The stock speakers are the exact same speakers in the Escape/Tribute.

hmm... "gay" in a negative context there, some of us members here may be in fact be gay.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nothing personal...

Anywho, Im planning for a pretty big system including: 6.5" components, 2 amplifiers, 15" ported supersub, and possibly a Audiocontrol 3.1 or equivalent crossover.

Will have pics.. many many pics :D
 

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sweet vaboom =D hehee...yes id like tos ee some pix of the install of the speakers and how u set up ure amp and sub...haha albeit im not gonna make my car blast that much *just one amp and a 10 inch or 12 inch sub will do* i want to see how i can do this haha....this is gonna be my first time ever workin on speakers and such so yea haha =D!!! maybe u can post a dyi tutorial ;) hahaha cant wait for dem pixies
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thinking about tutorial.... of the basics. Cant get into the tuning secrets :D

Today, I jot down all what I plan to get, equipment wise. Tomorrow will be an order day. Next week will start on the mid-high side first... still waiting for the sub to be built.
 

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Absolutely none taken. I'd like to see how your upgrades go since I'll be doing the same to my 3! I remember how much the sound in my tribute improved when I put in the new speakers.

Good luck!
 

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Well... salesmen usually don't know what they are talking about. The one I dealt with didn't know much about the car. He didn't even know what electric power steering was or if the car had it or not. Or if you can add a Sub to the stock radio. In other words, better look for the information yourself. They are there to make the sell... :roll:
 

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vaboom... if you figure out how to get a amp connected to the head unit in the M3 please post. I wish that there was a kit for the 3 so that after market head units could be installed!!!

So far its the only draw back that I can find in the car...

later all
 

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Regarding the plastic film vaBoom mentions above. Thought I'd add some trivia for those who care.

The thin plastic sheet found on most cars is indeed called the water shield and is meant to protect the window regulator motor, speaker, etc from the outside environment. Especially the (surprisingly large) amount of water that comes through the belt and side seals during heavy rain and car washes. (Advice - ALWAYS replace the water sheild after removal)

The thicker plastic panel on the MZ3 is something relatively new and is used as the base (carrier) for the door "module" - the speaker, window regulator, latch, and other hardware are all assembled together at the supplier and shipped to Mazda as an assembly. The plant operators at the vehicle assembly plant simply pop the module into the door opening and install the mounting screws on the carrier plate. Reduces cost and complexity, improves quality, and no need for the thin film water barrier.

I would avoid significant modification to the carrier (cutting for bigger speakers, etc.) without adding reinforcement, as it is a stressed component of the door. Drilling holes, etc. is likely no issue but cutting away the entire corner could lead to some noise issues from the door flexing.

The same system is also used on the MZ6, btw.

VW, Nissan and others have used this system for a while now. Good to see Mazda is using it too - they're one of the first to use a plastic (rather than steel) carrier.

(I'm an engineer for a Tier1 that builds systems like this)

Just a short auto engineering lesson for you.

Brandon
MZ3_Toronto
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mz3_toronto is right. It may not be wise for a "novice" to cut the plastic guard for bigger speakers. I am a trained professional :D

I plan to put 6.5" components in. Cake work, Ive done many door modifications in my install years and have the balls to do it my new baby. Btw, I used to have a Jetta that I cut for 7" midbasses hehe

As for connecting an amp or multiples: Level line convertor, preferably powered or an AudioControl 3.1. There is plenty of room in the glove box to attach the 3.1. Or buy an amp that has high level inputs. Either way, best way is the 3.1 or a powered level line convertor.
 

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Ive got a 600watt 4 channel amp that ive been using to power my sub.... would i be able to simply connect the speaker outputs to the amp as a high level input by splitting them? would this then mean low wattage to my speakers?

hmmm, idea....it probably can't work tho? if i were to connect a 4 channel amp thru high level, then split its speaker outputs and send the split to another high level input on a second 4 channel would that work? im still learning the ways lol, started off with an 86 volvo :oops: ....didn't exactly require anything complicated . but yeah n e input would be great :) and what is a line level converter? i keep hearing about that some other LOC thing and line drivers? what are they and what do they do?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Level Line Convertor: Is a product that takes a a full range speaker input and converts it to a RCA output. Only downfall to this is, it must be a full range signal or the output will be very minimal. Non powered units output as much as 5v, while powered can juice out up to 13v! (3 times what a normal deck at 4v can put out) LOC and Soundgate make the best.

High Level Input - Only offered on amplifiers. Takes a full range or high level signal. Advantages for this is: doesnt need mass power to give the amplifier a signal. One quick disavantage, is the amp doesnt convert the signal with a high enough voltage. Ive seen amps claiming as high as 4v... which IMO for a typical install will be fine.

Either way you plan to go, make sure you have good adjustable amps. Ive built very many systems that base the factory radio around the install. With the proper adjustments, these type of systems can sound just as good as cars that have aftermarket decks.
 

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Blah

You know,

Any stock system is going to suck regardless. If it's important to you, upgrade. Personally, I could care less so long as the car itself works.
 
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