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I believe that is correct last I heard, David. 200 TW only for street, street touring will continue on with 140 TW as usual.
 

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Everything's ready and wiped down, but the radar said chance of rain. This is the only day I have to do this so makeshift paint booth to the rescue! It did start raining during the process and a couple droplets made it on to the wheels. They turned out slightly less than perfect, but they'll do considering the weather.
Lmao, never thought booster cables would come in handy for a painting project! I was so wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Not sure if you're serious, but I don't think 19.6 pounds is all that bad for a 17x9. My old 17x9 SSR Comps (original, lighter version) were 16.3 pounds.
The wheels are far from ideal, but they're perfect for the price (used). More importantly it gets me into the right size. I don't think 7.5"s would cut it.
 

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3.3 lbs a corner... that's not significant to you... :huh::huh::huh:
I didn't say it wasn't significant. I said I don't think it's all that bad.

It's all relative, I suppose. I mean, starting curb weight is almost 3200 pounds. If you look at the full spectrum of 17x9 wheels that will fit that car, they range from around 15 pounds/each to almost 30 pounds/each. IMO, a 25 pound wheel "weighs a ton," but a 19.6 pound wheel isn't all that bad.

The irony here, is that I'm the "weight-crazy" guy in Dave's thread, but not "weight-crazy" enough in this one. :alaugh: Like I said, it's all relative, and I admit I was probably more "weight-crazy" when I had my STX E36.
 

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Mack it's not to me. Every test I've seen and done says it's not significant. On a gutless 120hp car 5lb a corner is...but not on a MS3 or even a MZ3. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It took AWR 5 months, but just one look at these housings made it worth the wait.





I'll be sending the P30-0032 Bilstein inserts off to have revalved this week. I never got a good answer on what inserts I had to buy to work with the housings, so I made a very educated guess based off some hours of internet searching. They are the same length when put next to my old Mazdaspeed (KW) coilover, but the strut seat sits about 10mm too short in the housing. A trip to the hardware store and four 1.75" washers stacked inside brought it to perfect height.

The plan was to reuse the Mazdaspeed coilover springs and upper spring perch (with nice radial bearing) along with the corksport plates. Turns out the MS springs are 60mm, which doesn't work with a 2.5" setup. Go figure. Also the strut nut included with the corksport plates is for the factory/MS damper 12mm thread. Bilstein is 14mm.

An order for two more Hyperco springs, two flanged sleeve bushings, and two 60mm to 2.5 spring seat adapters later...

I should (knock on wood) have everything needed for the suspension install by the end of the week, with plans to install the following week.

This should give me at least one autocross after installing the springs/dampers before Nationals. That's one more than last year!
 

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sweet. :) I might have to buy a pair of 17x9s for my MS3 to try up front with my STF rears lol :)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Dropped off the front struts this morning. I never knew this place was 4 miles from work!



Apparently when you call Bilstein they want you to ship your struts to California for the work. I got a contact at the Mooresville shop (Bilstein's Motorsports East location) and he told me to just bring them in. That'll save quite a bit on shipping and time, being that Nationals is right around the corner.

Just getting the last couple of bits in and should be able to slap these puppies on in a week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
What is your plan for the front sway? The awr housings have significantly lower endlink mounting points.
They are the same height as the Mazdaspeed coilovers. I ran my old car at Nationals with the stock endlinks on those. I'm pretty sure I was getting some binding though, as the front end never really felt good. This was especially noticeable at turn-in.

I'm trying to decide between doing the Corksports or AWRs. I'm leaning towards the AWRs because of spherical rod-ends. I'd just have to drill out all four mounting holes to 12mm.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't those also 12"?

I'm thinking to maintain stock bar location/angle/whatever I'll need something like 8" links.

Edit: I have awr links in the rear and now that I've finally got them on and sorted (everything tight af) they are quiet and tight, can't say I notice a difference other than noise but they are quality pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The AWR endlink hole is somewhere between 1.5-2 inches lower than stock. So with a 1.5-2" drop I should be well within spec of the adjustable arms. Remember you need longer endlinks when lowering and mounting points don't change.

If the mounting points were same as stock I'd need 14"ish links
 

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It's quite possible I'm over thinking it. That bit you said about it needing to be longer makes a lot of sense, but when I try to visulize it... I'll just wait until I install lol
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So I changed my mind a little on the endlinks and ended up going with adjustables built by Massive SpeedSystem.

It hit me that the Focus STs share the same size links, so since they're the hot new hatchback I figured there would be some other options out there. That led me to these.



They have a nice metallic powdercoat, Aurora ends, and those nice dust boots that I've never seen on endlinks before. The adjustment range is from 12" to 13.5" center to center. They ticked every box and the price was excellent from the quality I see. We'll find out how they perform.

Massive also makes some really nice looking billet aluminum rear adjustable camber arms for our 3s. If only the spherical rod ends were legal...
 
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