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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I wanted to start this thread to see what suggestions anyone has for speakers to couple with the Eonon GA8151 head unit I am getting ready to order. The stock speakers in my 2008 M3 iSport suck in my opinion. So I figure if I am going to get a new head unit, I might as well do it right and upgrade the speakers as well.

Any suggestions or advice would be awesome. Thanks in advance!
 

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the Eonon GA8151 head unit I am getting ready to order
Found your first problem, right there. While I absolutely LOVE the idea of the Eonon units, the execution isn't good. At all. I love the idea so much, I tried three different ones, all of which had the same issues: no radio reception at all, horrible sound quality, terrible bluetooth phone calls, buggy interface, and constant crashes requiring you to kill the power to the radio before it would work again.

As far as speakers go, what's your budget? Can't answer that question until I know what your goals are.
 

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My advice on speakers, listen to some and then buy what you like the sound of. Try not to blindly buy them on the internet based only on reviews. With my last car I bought a well reviewed pair of Polk Audio speakers that Crutchfield recommended to me and I hated them.
 

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I had Polk DXi speakers, not the DB series. The mid-high frequency range was overpowering to the point that it gave me a headache. They may have sounded better running off an amp and not the Pioneer HU I was using but as is they were horrible. I ended up getting a cheap pair of Pioneer speakers from Walmart that were a lot better. I currently have a pair of Digital Designs speakers in my 3 and they sound really good for the price but the company forbids selling their product online so you have to find a brick and mortar dealer to buy them.
 

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Digital Designs... forbids selling their product online so you have to find a brick and mortar dealer to buy them.
Now that I like! Didn't know that about them at all.

A few other companies that are like that that I really like are Fi, Mmats, and Linear Power.

My new setup will consist of a Bose head unit from a 2008.5, Linear Power 6.5" components and a Sundown SD3 10" sub running off of LP amps (5002 on 6.5's [250x2], 1502 bridged to 10 [300x1], and a 652 on the tweeters [32.5x2]), controlled by a Helix P-DSP digital signal processor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Found your first problem, right there. While I absolutely LOVE the idea of the Eonon units, the execution isn't good. At all. I love the idea so much, I tried three different ones, all of which had the same issues: no radio reception at all, horrible sound quality, terrible bluetooth phone calls, buggy interface, and constant crashes requiring you to kill the power to the radio before it would work again.

As far as speakers go, what's your budget? Can't answer that question until I know what your goals are.
Yeah budget would help....speaker budget is around 5-700 USD. I haven't read or heard anything like the issues you are describing with this head unit. Maybe I need to do more research.
 

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My advice on speakers, listen to some and then buy what you like the sound of. Try not to blindly buy them on the internet based only on reviews. With my last car I bought a well reviewed pair of Polk Audio speakers that Crutchfield recommended to me and I hated them.
I've always been a fan of Clarion. I did a whole Clarion system in my Supra and it was awesome. You are right about the listening to them first before buying which is my general rule of thumb for anything audio in general. Good comments thank you.
 

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$700, that's a great budget to get some AWESOME sound. Do you have already an amp(s), or are you going to need those as well?
I do not have an amp. If I can avoid putting one in I prefer it but if not I will need one of those too on top of the speakers.
 

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An amp will definitely help with sound quality, because you get lots of extra power. That extra power can really help on transients like kick drums and the like. Give a nice punch to the music.

As stated before, nobody has your ears, so we can't tell you what you might like. You really do need to listen before buying. But, we can point you in the right direction, tell you what we have experince with, and what we like. Still though, two sets of ears, four different opinions.

In my son's truck, we got him a pair of Rockford Fosgate Prime amps, the R250x4, and the R500.1D. The 250 is 50x4 to run his mids and tweeters, the 500 is 500x1 for his subs. GREAT amps, and a steal at only $80 each via Amazon Prime. My Linear Power amps were *significantly* more expensive, but not everybody needs to go that route. For a non-SQ Competition stereo, those Rockfords kick some serious ass.

For speakers, I run a Linear Power LP65 set. The MSRP is $960 per set, but you can find them well under that number. That may sound like a lot of dough, but after you listen to them, you'll understand. They are nothing short of incredible. My son runs an old school from the 90's 3 way (6-4-tweet) a/d/s/ separates set. Those things are nuts SQ as well. Very rare to find anymore though. I lucked out and got them for $100 from a guy who was dismantling his IASCA Amatuer Class Championship winning car. Other speakers to consider would be Morel, Dayton Audio, Focal, Dynaudio, and the Precision Power speakers with the woven cones and AMT tweeters.

For a sub, I run a sealed jackdoor sub box loaded with a Sundown SD.v3 10". MSRP is like $320, but I got mine from an authorized dealer for $150 shipped, due to the fact I also run LP amps and speakers. That shop is a member of Team Linear Power, so he gives other guys running that equipment breaks on prices. My son runs a pair of Savard RAP 10's. They aren't as musical as my Sundown, but they sure do slam! A pair of those 10's cost about that same $150 shipped for my 1 10.

Finally, you'll want to try to find a DSP. No sense in dropping $700 on a set of speakers, and not be able to tune them. SoundStream, Cadence, PPI, and MiniDSP all make DSP's that are affordable at under $250. I lucked out and found my Helix P-DSP for only $170 shipped! Helix's are usually in the $500 and up range, so I really scored on that one. The DSP my son uses is just the one built into his Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit. Nothing fancy there.
 

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If you need to tune a set of $700 speakers to make them sound good then you got royally ripped off.
Don't care how much money you spend on speakers, you could spend $6000 on Focal Utopia's with Beryllium tweeters, in a car, *some* tuning will be required. Why? Because the tuning isn't about changing the sounds the speaker makes, it's about moving the sound stage around where the image height, width, and depth is perfect.

When I play a well recorded album, something like Alice in Chains MTV Unplugged, I can close my eyes and pick out the individual instruments on the stage. Layne Staley is singing front and center, the drummer Sean Kinney is behind him, Jerry Cantrell is to the right, Mike Inez is to the left. They really are that clear that you can pick them out individually.

I don't care who you are, without tuning, you cannot dial in the image like that. It all has to do with correcting phase anomalies from the less than optimal speaker placement that cars pretty much force you to live with. The left speaker is a hell of a lot closer to you than the right, and the tweeters are usually far away from the mids. If you don't correct for that, you get issues.

My stereo isn't a drop in, wham, bam, thankyou ma'am, OONTS, OONTS, OONTS, OONTS machine from Best Buy. Until you've heard a stereo that can compete with the best in IASCA and MECA, you don't know what you're missing. I had an IASCA World Champion sit in my car and tell me that with an *extremely* basic 2 hour tune, my car was in the top 40% of competition stereos he's ever heard in his entire life. That may not sound impressive, but if you knew who this guy was, and the cars he's gone up against, you'd get it. It has substantially changed from when he heard it, (I spent an additional 5 FULL days of tuning) and it now sounds even better. And when I'm finished with this latest rebuild, I truly believe I'll be in the top 10% of stereos in the country.
 

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Don't care how much money you spend on speakers, you could spend $6000 on Focal Utopia's with Beryllium tweeters, in a car, *some* tuning will be required. Why? Because the tuning isn't about changing the sounds the speaker makes, it's about moving the sound stage around where the image height, width, and depth is perfect.

When I play a well recorded album, something like Alice in Chains MTV Unplugged, I can close my eyes and pick out the individual instruments on the stage. Layne Staley is singing front and center, the drummer Sean Kinney is behind him, Jerry Cantrell is to the right, Mike Inez is to the left. They really are that clear that you can pick them out individually.

I don't care who you are, without tuning, you cannot dial in the image like that. It all has to do with correcting phase anomalies from the less than optimal speaker placement that cars pretty much force you to live with. The left speaker is a hell of a lot closer to you than the right, and the tweeters are usually far away from the mids. If you don't correct for that, you get issues.

My stereo isn't a drop in, wham, bam, thankyou ma'am, OONTS, OONTS, OONTS, OONTS machine from Best Buy. Until you've heard a stereo that can compete with the best in IASCA and MECA, you don't know what you're missing. I had an IASCA World Champion sit in my car and tell me that with an *extremely* basic 2 hour tune, my car was in the top 40% of competition stereos he's ever heard in his entire life. That may not sound impressive, but if you knew who this guy was, and the cars he's gone up against, you'd get it. It has substantially changed from when he heard it, (I spent an additional 5 FULL days of tuning) and it now sounds even better. And when I'm finished with this latest rebuild, I truly believe I'll be in the top 10% of stereos in the country.
Well, to me and probably 95% of people that reward isn't worth the effort, cost, and time, this is something something that you don't seem to understand when you give advice. Most people don't have a decent sound system at home or even a good pair of headphones so when you start telling someone that just wants a basic upgrade that they need all of this others stuff it comes off as unrealistic, and this is coming from someone that has built loudspeakers and tends to be picky about sound.
 

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He's willing to plop down $700 on a set of speakers. That also isn't 95% of people. So I'm thinking that he actually is after that reward.
 

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Oh, and generally, when people ask me to recommend some speakers on a budget, I often recommend either Dayton Audio DC160-4's or Silver Flutes at all of $25 each. I also often recommend Human Speakers PRO 007 6.5's and those are all of $56 each. It's not like that stuff is unobtanium. Hell, you can barely get Walmart garbage for that kind of money.
 

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Oh, and generally, when people ask me to recommend some speakers on a budget, I often recommend either Dayton Audio DC160-4's or Silver Flutes at all of $25 each. I also often recommend Human Speakers PRO 007 6.5's and those are all of $56 each. It's not like that stuff is unobtanium. Hell, you can barely get Walmart garbage for that kind of money.
You expect the average person to be able to design and build or properly select a cross over to go with those raw drivers? What about selecting a tweeter that matches them? Also, none of those speakers are designed to handle the moisture of vehicle environment or the lack of a proper enclosure like you would find in a door.
 

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They work fine in cars. Literally hundreds if not thousands of people run them every day, me being one of them. (I have the Daytons in my wife's Honda). I specifically say those particular 6.5's because you can run them full range, no crossovers. They are that smooth, all the way out. For tweeters, pick something at random, doesn't matter. Or hell, use your stockers. A tweeter just needs a simple capacitor on them, nothing fancy. A simple 10uF cap works for 99.9% of tweeters on the market, and if you get the Dayton AMT's that match the Classic mids, Parts Express will give the caps to you for free.
 
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