engine motor mount
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
nope not at all...from what we know, the rear engine mount is probably the most noticeable....then comes the transmission mount, which i heard is just as noticeable as the rear engine....the passenger side is the least on the list but still worthy of buying
medieval has a great kit for a very reasonable price....i would say go for all 3 just to balance everything...and if you don't want to, go with the rear and trans
medieval has a great kit for a very reasonable price....i would say go for all 3 just to balance everything...and if you don't want to, go with the rear and trans
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
will just two mounts put alot more stress on the third mount? ie side mount like you talk about?
[quote author=VOGAD19 link=topic=136869.msg2950648#msg2950648 date=1235167724]
do you think putting a rear motor mount, transmission mount and passenger side mount made by medieval for mazdaspeed 3 is over kill?
[/quote]
Better yet, why do you believe it's overkill?
do you think putting a rear motor mount, transmission mount and passenger side mount made by medieval for mazdaspeed 3 is over kill?
[/quote]
Better yet, why do you believe it's overkill?
Joined
·
29 Posts
I have the trans mount (or drivers side mount) and can't say I recommend it. I had numerous problems with mine and to be honest the amount of gear noise transmitted thru the car is awful. It does make the shifting much better, and also the turn in of the car is much better under load, but I'm not sure it's worth hearing every tooth in the trasmission engage.
I'm probably going to take out this mount and put the stock one back in next weekend.
Mine may have been an early model, but here are the issues I had:
1. The opening in upper plate (between the ears) was 3/16" wider than the ureathane bushing. (now 2 metal washers are supplied with them to take care of this.)
2. The metal sleeve in the bushing was about 1/4" shorter than the bushing.
3. The internal diameter of the metal sleeve in the urethane bushing was the exact same diameter as the bolt. This made the bolt impossible to place into the sleeve.
4. The alignement of the bolt to the bushing when assembled, angle wise, is incorrect on mine. After a week of driving what sounded like a dentist drill I took the upper plate off in an attempt to re-align everything. I found the uretahene bushing had been forced out of shape by the metal sleeve because the bolt is not at the correct angle. The drivers side of bushing had been pulled down by about 5/16" and the passenger side was up by the same amount. The holes in the bushing had become oblonged so this was really obvious.
5. While the welds look good, I had lots of splatter on the upper plate surface where the bushing (or washer) rides that had to be filed off. The splatter had been powder coated over, so the finish had to filed too.
6. This is a nit-pick. The upper plates mounting holes should be like the factory plates (large and rectangular) and not clearance holes. The clearance holes have no room for adjustment and make installation more difficult than it needs to be. On mine the clearance holes were being pressed against the studs, where the larger holes would have let the plate just drop on.
I'm an engineer and have access to a machine shop. To solve the issues I had Delrin washers made to make the bushing wider, a new sleeve made (Just slightly smaller than the upper plates ears, and large enough for the bolt to go thru). The second week when I took it apart and modified it I drilled the upper plates mounting holes out to 11/16" to allow for adjustment and glued some 1/8" sheet rubber to the bottom of the upper plate to help kill the vibration. I also shimmed the upper plate and took measurements with my digital calipers until the bolt was parralel to the bushing housing before putting everything back together.
It helped, but it's still far from perfect and gear noise in first and second is very loud. Too much for me I think.
I'm probably going to take out this mount and put the stock one back in next weekend.
Mine may have been an early model, but here are the issues I had:
1. The opening in upper plate (between the ears) was 3/16" wider than the ureathane bushing. (now 2 metal washers are supplied with them to take care of this.)
2. The metal sleeve in the bushing was about 1/4" shorter than the bushing.
3. The internal diameter of the metal sleeve in the urethane bushing was the exact same diameter as the bolt. This made the bolt impossible to place into the sleeve.
4. The alignement of the bolt to the bushing when assembled, angle wise, is incorrect on mine. After a week of driving what sounded like a dentist drill I took the upper plate off in an attempt to re-align everything. I found the uretahene bushing had been forced out of shape by the metal sleeve because the bolt is not at the correct angle. The drivers side of bushing had been pulled down by about 5/16" and the passenger side was up by the same amount. The holes in the bushing had become oblonged so this was really obvious.
5. While the welds look good, I had lots of splatter on the upper plate surface where the bushing (or washer) rides that had to be filed off. The splatter had been powder coated over, so the finish had to filed too.
6. This is a nit-pick. The upper plates mounting holes should be like the factory plates (large and rectangular) and not clearance holes. The clearance holes have no room for adjustment and make installation more difficult than it needs to be. On mine the clearance holes were being pressed against the studs, where the larger holes would have let the plate just drop on.
I'm an engineer and have access to a machine shop. To solve the issues I had Delrin washers made to make the bushing wider, a new sleeve made (Just slightly smaller than the upper plates ears, and large enough for the bolt to go thru). The second week when I took it apart and modified it I drilled the upper plates mounting holes out to 11/16" to allow for adjustment and glued some 1/8" sheet rubber to the bottom of the upper plate to help kill the vibration. I also shimmed the upper plate and took measurements with my digital calipers until the bolt was parralel to the bushing housing before putting everything back together.
It helped, but it's still far from perfect and gear noise in first and second is very loud. Too much for me I think.
Joined
·
29 Posts
For years I was the same way. Now that I'm 40+, drive 50 miles a day and I can't hear my kids talk from me from the backseat of the car, Not so much.
I can tell you that if I was auto-xing this car that I would leave it on. But for a daily driver it's too much vibration and noise for me. Plus the number of issues I had with even getting the the thing to bolt on. Great idea but poor execution, at least the one I got.
I can tell you that if I was auto-xing this car that I would leave it on. But for a daily driver it's too much vibration and noise for me. Plus the number of issues I had with even getting the the thing to bolt on. Great idea but poor execution, at least the one I got.
[quote author=Stamperman link=topic=136869.msg2953479#msg2953479 date=1235313225]
For years I was the same way. Now that I'm 40+, drive 50 miles a day and I can't hear my kids talk from me from the backseat of the car, Not so much.
[/quote]
The only time I get any excess noise is if you decelerate in gear, normal driving there is almost no increase other than some whine.
For years I was the same way. Now that I'm 40+, drive 50 miles a day and I can't hear my kids talk from me from the backseat of the car, Not so much.
[/quote]
The only time I get any excess noise is if you decelerate in gear, normal driving there is almost no increase other than some whine.
Joined
·
29 Posts
I'll admit, the shifting is exceptional with the thing in. Maybe the noise on mine is worse because the upper plate is out of wack.
[quote author=Stamperman link=topic=136869.msg2953892#msg2953892 date=1235330601]
I'll admit, the shifting is exceptional with the thing in. Maybe the noise on mine is worse because the upper plate is out of wack.
[/quote]
It will also be worse if you tightened up the bolt through the bushing after you mounted to the frame. First bushing, then the rest. I'm also tight as heck from my other mounts.
I'll admit, the shifting is exceptional with the thing in. Maybe the noise on mine is worse because the upper plate is out of wack.
[/quote]
It will also be worse if you tightened up the bolt through the bushing after you mounted to the frame. First bushing, then the rest. I'm also tight as heck from my other mounts.
i installed all the 3 mount from medieval in my car yesterday, the result is superb shifting, BUT the noise omfg!
its like driving a race car without any insulation or dampening..will these noise or vibration going on for months to come?? my gf already complain like hell. she wont even ride with me anymore..
will street unit or cpe mounts make the same noise?
i dont think i can keep this noise up for another week, this car is dd for 50 miles everyday so i need something better. any suggestion?
its like driving a race car without any insulation or dampening..will these noise or vibration going on for months to come?? my gf already complain like hell. she wont even ride with me anymore..
will street unit or cpe mounts make the same noise?
i dont think i can keep this noise up for another week, this car is dd for 50 miles everyday so i need something better. any suggestion?
[quote author=VOGAD19 link=topic=136869.msg3057632#msg3057632 date=1239681960]
i installed all the 3 mount from medieval in my car yesterday, the result is superb shifting, BUT the noise omfg!
its like driving a race car without any insulation or dampening..will these noise or vibration going on for months to come?? my gf already complain like hell. she wont even ride with me anymore..
will street unit or cpe mounts make the same noise?
i dont think i can keep this noise up for another week, this car is dd for 50 miles everyday so i need something better. any suggestion?
[/quote]
give it sometime to break in...btw, did you use the revised passenger side mount from medieval? I hope you are not using the first generation one...because I use to have that one...and OMFG that thing is loud as he!!...its so bad that I can't even see out through the rear view mirror....when I put the version 2 passenger side mount on, everything become bliss
i installed all the 3 mount from medieval in my car yesterday, the result is superb shifting, BUT the noise omfg!
its like driving a race car without any insulation or dampening..will these noise or vibration going on for months to come?? my gf already complain like hell. she wont even ride with me anymore..
will street unit or cpe mounts make the same noise?
i dont think i can keep this noise up for another week, this car is dd for 50 miles everyday so i need something better. any suggestion?
[/quote]
give it sometime to break in...btw, did you use the revised passenger side mount from medieval? I hope you are not using the first generation one...because I use to have that one...and OMFG that thing is loud as he!!...its so bad that I can't even see out through the rear view mirror....when I put the version 2 passenger side mount on, everything become bliss
[quote author=cruzito11 link=topic=136869.msg3059418#msg3059418 date=1239751005]
How does the version2 passenger side mount look like?
[/quote]
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=140854.msg3059229#new
How does the version2 passenger side mount look like?
[/quote]
http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=140854.msg3059229#new
Joined
·
29 Posts
Medevil drivers side trans, AWR lower/trans.
I resinstalled the Medevil mount a third time, but I shimed the upper plate until the bolt was level with the bushing housing for the tranmission. I used my digital calipers to do the measurement and got it within .01 of an inch. I also drilled the upper plate holes out to a larger size in order to alleviate binding from those (and it was tons easier to install). The overall result is much better. The only noticable noise is some gear whine when first starting the car and letting the clutch out in neuteral in the morning.
It's also much warmer here now, which probably helps too.
I'm happy with it, but I'm keeping my eye out for something better looking (no powder coated weld spatter) and better fitting to replace it with.
Shifting is still light years better than stock.
I resinstalled the Medevil mount a third time, but I shimed the upper plate until the bolt was level with the bushing housing for the tranmission. I used my digital calipers to do the measurement and got it within .01 of an inch. I also drilled the upper plate holes out to a larger size in order to alleviate binding from those (and it was tons easier to install). The overall result is much better. The only noticable noise is some gear whine when first starting the car and letting the clutch out in neuteral in the morning.
It's also much warmer here now, which probably helps too.
I'm happy with it, but I'm keeping my eye out for something better looking (no powder coated weld spatter) and better fitting to replace it with.
Shifting is still light years better than stock.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!