I have the trans mount (or drivers side mount) and can't say I recommend it. I had numerous problems with mine and to be honest the amount of gear noise transmitted thru the car is awful. It does make the shifting much better, and also the turn in of the car is much better under load, but I'm not sure it's worth hearing every tooth in the trasmission engage.
I'm probably going to take out this mount and put the stock one back in next weekend.
Mine may have been an early model, but here are the issues I had:
1. The opening in upper plate (between the ears) was 3/16" wider than the ureathane bushing. (now 2 metal washers are supplied with them to take care of this.)
2. The metal sleeve in the bushing was about 1/4" shorter than the bushing.
3. The internal diameter of the metal sleeve in the urethane bushing was the exact same diameter as the bolt. This made the bolt impossible to place into the sleeve.
4. The alignement of the bolt to the bushing when assembled, angle wise, is incorrect on mine. After a week of driving what sounded like a dentist drill I took the upper plate off in an attempt to re-align everything. I found the uretahene bushing had been forced out of shape by the metal sleeve because the bolt is not at the correct angle. The drivers side of bushing had been pulled down by about 5/16" and the passenger side was up by the same amount. The holes in the bushing had become oblonged so this was really obvious.
5. While the welds look good, I had lots of splatter on the upper plate surface where the bushing (or washer) rides that had to be filed off. The splatter had been powder coated over, so the finish had to filed too.
6. This is a nit-pick. The upper plates mounting holes should be like the factory plates (large and rectangular) and not clearance holes. The clearance holes have no room for adjustment and make installation more difficult than it needs to be. On mine the clearance holes were being pressed against the studs, where the larger holes would have let the plate just drop on.
I'm an engineer and have access to a machine shop. To solve the issues I had Delrin washers made to make the bushing wider, a new sleeve made (Just slightly smaller than the upper plates ears, and large enough for the bolt to go thru). The second week when I took it apart and modified it I drilled the upper plates mounting holes out to 11/16" to allow for adjustment and glued some 1/8" sheet rubber to the bottom of the upper plate to help kill the vibration. I also shimmed the upper plate and took measurements with my digital calipers until the bolt was parralel to the bushing housing before putting everything back together.
It helped, but it's still far from perfect and gear noise in first and second is very loud. Too much for me I think.