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Discussion Starter #1
I've had what I consider a ticking noise somewhere around my driver side door that has been annoying me for a while. The sound seemed to be near my head so I thought at first it was something to do with the seatbelt in the pillar between the front and rear doors. But I found that if I put pressure on my driver door with my arm the rattle goes away. So then I thought that it must be a cable or something in the door. I took the panel off and went for a drive to find if it was the door itself or something on the panel. Well here is what I found. The ticking noise is coming from the actual door latch. Like when you close the door it latches on the hook to keep it closed. Well that latch makes a little tick sound whenever I push and pull the door while it is closed. This is translating to an annoying rattle when driving. If I apply pressure to the door the latch won't rattle. I checked all my other doors and the driver one is the only one that rattles. I tried to lube the latch but no success. Anyone with ideas on how to resolve this? Or at least anyone who knows what I'm talking about? Hopefully I was descriptive enough but this rattle is driving me insane because it is translating to the door anchor and through the pillar metal between the front and rear door and right into my ear!


Oh and I read about a million other threads about this issue but all seem to be having rattles from other things like the foam piece or the cable from the door handle to the latch but these are not my issue.
 

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Yep - you got it.
100% correct.

Here is the bummer - Mazda provided NO WAY to adjust the metal loop (or "dog") that attaches to the door jam like most makers.

By moving the loop inward slightly, the door would be tighter and there would be no tick/rattle - you would remove the "play".

I broke out the torx bits and thought this would be an easy adjust - but to my surprise there is NO adjustment for the loop, so I cant make the door close tighter.

I guess we are fucked - basically.

The only other way to remove the play is to add some weather stripping below the door to get the door to be tighter when closed.

Another thought is to build out the rubber bumper so it removes some play - the bumper is located on the door, all the way at the bottom. Possibly add a round piece of rubber right on the tip.

Last suggestion is to possibly wrap the metal loop on the door jam with electrical tape where it touches - to remove the clicking/ticking/rattle.

Anybody able to successfully fix this one yet??



~
 

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what about applying a heavy silicone lubricant to the jamb and latch, so that there's enough lube to absorb the noise? I'm not talkin average chasis lube. I'm thinking of the heavy silicone lube that I used on my sway bar bushings. This stuff is sticky like honey, but 5 times as viscous.
 

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[quote author=blkspd3 link=topic=98541.msg1956430#msg1956430 date=1199079965]
what about applying a heavy silicone lubricant to the jamb and latch, so that there's enough lube to absorb the noise? I'm not talkin average chasis lube. I'm thinking of the heavy silicone lube that I used on my sway bar bushings. This stuff is sticky like honey, but 5 times as viscous.
[/quote]

Thats a good idea.

I did try EXXON axle grease - the stickiest shit I had in the shop.

To no avail.

I think I do have the perfect fix.

Take the metal loop off the door.

Dip it in liquid plastic - stuff made for tool handles

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1PF/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006SL0VO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SSM0VDHB83Z15KRSVJX


This should get rid of the noise since the metal to metal contact is now gone.

Some krytox applied to the rubber dip will keeep it from wearing through quickly - If it does wear through, just dip again.
 

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NICE!

I have the spray stuff. Comes in handy for spraying under hood parts ( I like the look ), light sound deadener, and rust proofer/sealer. Just make sure you do something to the surface so this stuff will stick. I tried it once on my computer mouse, and a screwdriver handle, and it peeled right off. Prep well.
 

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[quote author=blkspd3 link=topic=98541.msg1956453#msg1956453 date=1199081334]
NICE!

I have the spray stuff. Comes in handy for spraying under hood parts ( I like the look ), light sound deadener, and rust proofer/sealer. Just make sure you do something to the surface so this stuff will stick. I tried it once on my computer mouse, and a screwdriver handle, and it peeled right off. Prep well.
[/quote]

Yeah exactly - I would soak it in acetone or lacquer thinner first.

Might want to scuff it first with sandpaper too. (before bathing it in acetone) - that will help the adhesion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok mctwist I think i've fixed the problem by wrapping the metal door loop with electrical tape as you suggested. I wrapped one piece around the side of the loop closest to the outside of the door. The piece was long enough to wrap around the loop twice. Seems to have eliminated the problem. I'll just have to wait and see if it works as a long term solution. Thanks for posting back on this, nice to see that I'm not the only one being annoyed by this ticking sound.
 

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Awesome!
Let me know how that tape holds up - if it cuts through after only a few open/closes, we might have to go to the plasti-dip.

That stuff is supposed to be very scuff resistant.

At least that proves what the noise is.
 

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i predict the tape will get cut through after a week, and the plastic dip stuff after a month. neither are permanent fixes. maybe building up the rubber weather stripping will add a little tension to the latchplate (the loop you are referring to) and stop the rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well since I taped it on the 31st tomorrow will be a week with no issues. There isn't much rubbing that goes on with the latching mechanism when to door shuts so the fix should be good for a while. If not, putting a piece of tape on the door once in a while is a small price to pay for not having that rattle annoy the hell out of me.
 

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Yeah thats what I figured too.

I looked at that little "lever" that gets switched by hitting the loop - no real abrasion or tension there. The loop just knocks the door mech "closed".

Its all about stopping the metal to metal "knock".

Two other random observations..

I never noticed this rattle until it got cold - will it be there when it warms up and the rubber sals return to their soft fluffy shape?? Maybe not.

and two...

There is a LITTLE play in that loop - you can unloosen the Torx bolts and push it inward while tightening - this will remove SOME of the slak/play in the door. I did this today.
 

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After all these time, anyone got a permanent fix for this problem? As balsone said, the rattle will stop once I put pressure on the door with my arm. I have a 08 hatch gt, the rattle started right after I got the car. I had tried putting E.tape onto the loop (about 3-4 loops around both inside and outside shaft, but the door still rattle). I am thinking of trying the liquid plastic trick, but wonder if it is the ultimate solution. Please help!! the rattle is driving me nuts!! :x
 

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I had this problem as well. I took it to the dealer, they replaced the door handle. That was a temporary fix. I brought it in a couple months later, same issue. They said they would need to call Mazda to see what they want to do. Well, that was November 2007 they said they would call me back and I haven't heard anything from them yet. I knew I was replacing the stereo then so that's why I am not really angry about it. So the fix for me was 2 layers of dynamat and I replaced all the speakers and amp. I haven't heard a rattle yet, plus it sounds way better than the Bose did.
 

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I think I have nailed the problem... (Only for those who have the same symptom)

Symptom:
Driver side door rattles while going a steady speed (happen mostly on freeway speed). If pressure applies on the door’s armrest, rattle goes away.

According to balsone and mctwist, the rattle came from the extra space between the door latch and the metal loop. The “play”.

I tried the electrical tape trick, no luck… other member recommended dynamat, too much work…

Until now, I've found the cure of this problem (at least to me and hopefully it will works on yours too)!!!

1. Get some vinyl bumper from Home Depot or any hardware stores.





2. Stick it to the Rounded bevel area on the body frame (where the original door bumper touch when the door closed)



3. You are done!!! (It’s faster than putting on your stubby antenna)

The vinyl bumper create an extra padding to the OEM door bumper, now the door close tighter and the “play” is gone!!!
 

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[quote author=mctwist link=topic=98541.msg1956443#msg1956443 date=1199080942]
[quote author=blkspd3 link=topic=98541.msg1956430#msg1956430 date=1199079965]
what about applying a heavy silicone lubricant to the jamb and latch, so that there's enough lube to absorb the noise? I'm not talkin average chasis lube. I'm thinking of the heavy silicone lube that I used on my sway bar bushings. This stuff is sticky like honey, but 5 times as viscous.
[/quote]

Thats a good idea.

I did try EXXON axle grease - the stickiest shit I had in the shop.

To no avail.

I think I do have the perfect fix.

Take the metal loop off the door.

Dip it in liquid plastic - stuff made for tool handles

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1PF/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006SL0VO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SSM0VDHB83Z15KRSVJX


This should get rid of the noise since the metal to metal contact is now gone.

Some krytox applied to the rubber dip will keeep it from wearing through quickly - If it does wear through, just dip again.
[/quote]
I'm ready to try this out. Bought the plastic dip thing today. But I'm having trouble unscrewing these 2 torx screws. Is there some trick to get them out? Or should I just apply more force?
 

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So, I've been battling at least the same symptoms for a couple months now (2010 3 5-door 7,500 miles).

I've brought it to Mazda twice and they can't seem to fix it. I am currently waiting for "a part" that has been ordered, specifically created for this problem.

Anyway, like I said- I've only brought it to Mazda. But, in the meantime I've backed off the window a touch (so still closed, but not as tight as possible) and the noise goes away?

It seems that its caused by the radio, but weird that its only around 70 mph if it is the radio. Similar to descritptions in previosu posts - same area, same speed, etc... Just seems like the glass is the problem to me not the actual door tightness...

Interested in comments here....
 
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