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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched as much as I could before I decided to make a thread for this problem. Anyway, I've got a 2004 Mazda 3i with power door locks.

The problem is that over the past few months the doors wouldn't lock using the key fob or the drivers side door switch, but both the fob and switch would always work when it came time to unlock. This problem would come and go and sometimes I could go a couple days with normal operation. As of late I have to manually lock every door because I can't get the power locks to do their thing.

Every thread I find either has the same issue as me with no replies or it's only their driver door that will unlock or won't unlock. For me the problem is all 4 doors won't lock.

I've already checked all of my fuses under the glove box and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking when I press lock on fob or door switch.

Any ideas? This is starting to drive me nuts!
 

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I've searched as much as I could before I decided to make a thread for this problem. Anyway, I've got a 2004 Mazda 3i with power door locks.

The problem is that over the past few months the doors wouldn't lock using the key fob or the drivers side door switch, but both the fob and switch would always work when it came time to unlock. This problem would come and go and sometimes I could go a couple days with normal operation. As of late I have to manually lock every door because I can't get the power locks to do their thing.

Every thread I find either has the same issue as me with no replies or it's only their driver door that will unlock or won't unlock. For me the problem is all 4 doors won't lock.

I've already checked all of my fuses under the glove box and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking when I press lock on fob or door switch.

Any ideas? This is starting to drive me nuts!
If it was just one door, I'd say that lock actuator was either sticking, or just getting weak from age. All four, I'd say relay, but it'll unlock and you can hear a relay clicking.

Call me confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm kind of thinking it might be a PJB issue. Sometimes my headlights and dash lights will dim and brighten intermittently on top of my power lock issue. Since there seems to be an electrical gremlin or two somewhere in my system, I guess I need to pop off the drivers door panel and check the connectors back there and I guess I'll check all of the connections on the PJB. I hope I don't have to replace it because from what I see, they are pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I had time on my lunch break I unplugged the PJB and checked all of the connectors and pins, all were clean and no bent pins. Plugged them back in and out a couple of times to make sure everything was getting connection.

Moved on to the drivers side door and took the door panel off, checked all of the connectors and pins, also clean and no bent pins.

The only thing I've noticed is that the click coming from the PJB when I use the fob and door switch to lock is different than the sound using unlock makes. The lock is a quick click and the unlock is almost like a 2-stage click.

I don't know if that makes sense to anyone but it's the best I could describe it.

I'm clueless unless it's just a bad PJB...
 

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When I had time on my lunch break I unplugged the PJB and checked all of the connectors and pins, all were clean and no bent pins. Plugged them back in and out a couple of times to make sure everything was getting connection.

Moved on to the drivers side door and took the door panel off, checked all of the connectors and pins, also clean and no bent pins.

The only thing I've noticed is that the click coming from the PJB when I use the fob and door switch to lock is different than the sound using unlock makes. The lock is a quick click and the unlock is almost like a 2-stage click.

I don't know if that makes sense to anyone but it's the best I could describe it.

I'm clueless unless it's just a bad PJB...
Or a flaky ground.

Out of curiosity, even with the car running you can't get the power lock button on the door to lock the doors? Thinking maybe a bad ground/battery issue, but that's a real shot in the dark.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Or a flaky ground.

Out of curiosity, even with the car running you can't get the power lock button on the door to lock the doors? Thinking maybe a bad ground/battery issue, but that's a real shot in the dark.
Even with the car running I can't get the doors to lock using the button.

I guess I'll go nosing around the battery and start checking for contact and corrosion issues. I'd always rather do the free things first before I spend a dime.
 

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Even with the car running I can't get the doors to lock using the button.

I guess I'll go nosing around the battery and start checking for contact and corrosion issues. I'd always rather do the free things first before I spend a dime.
+1 Start simple, and don't assume anything is good till you verify it.

I'll scratch my head and take a look through the FSM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Much appreciated. I'll post up my diagnosis when I get a chance later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I through the engine bay and checked all of the ground straps and they all looked relatively clean(i.e. not corroded to hell and no tears) and were bolted down well enough. The battery might be due for replacement soon by appearance, but when I tested it out with a voltmeter everything came back normal. Alternator is also in fine working order.

I'm stumped.
 

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I through the engine bay and checked all of the ground straps and they all looked relatively clean(i.e. not corroded to hell and no tears) and were bolted down well enough. The battery might be due for replacement soon by appearance, but when I tested it out with a voltmeter everything came back normal. Alternator is also in fine working order.

I'm stumped.
Without load testing, it's impossible to correctly test a battery. If you have a fast enough acting multimeter, you could have someone try to start to car while checking volts across the post on the battery. If you see it drop below 12V, your battery is getting weak (even if it shows 12V without a load.)

Autozone can load test a battery fairly quickly and easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got another battery hidden somewhere in my garage that was only used for 6 months. Might have to give that one a try and see if it makes a difference.
I was too lazy to go to Autozone last night so I just used multimeter. I'll see what they have to say about the battery.

Would a dying battery make it so your couldn't lock the doors using fob or switch?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

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I've got another battery hidden somewhere in my garage that was only used for 6 months. Might have to give that one a try and see if it makes a difference.
I was too lazy to go to Autozone last night so I just used multimeter. I'll see what they have to say about the battery.

Would a dying battery make it so your couldn't lock the doors using fob or switch?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
I don't think so, but it's been my experience when you're dealing with electrical black magic you don't assume anything. Weirder things have happened, and having the battery load tested doesn't cost anything to be able to rule that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I took the car up to Autozone and wouldn't ya know it, the battery is coming up as bad on their battery test. It works good enough to start the car and run off alternator. Luckily I have a fairly new battery in my storage room that needs to be charged and it's good to go.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And that other battery is bad too. Shit luck I suppose? Guess I'll get another battery and try again.
 

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Like I said, may not be related, but got to start with the basic foundation.


Sent from my iPhone with Tapatalk.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm just happy to know the battery that's in the car is dying out even if it has no relation to the door lock issue at hand. Well, not happy, but you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update to this issue with the door locks. I finally got around to replacing my slowly dying battery with a new battery. The door locks are still not locking and only work when you press unlock on the key fob and master lock switch on the drivers door.
 

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So, your lock button inside the car will lock the car, but the fob will not?

I may have asked, but do you have a door ajar warning? If the car things one of the doors/trunk/hatch isn't shut it will not allow you to lock using the fob, but will still lock using the door switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nah, the door switch and key fob only work for unlock. Neither of them works for locking and I don't have any door ajar lights on the gauge cluster.
 

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Any update on this?

I have a similar (but different) issue with my 04 Mazda hatch.

"Unlock" works on all doors, all of the time, with key fob, door switch and directly with key.

"Lock" works with door switch and key only. Never (or rarely) with fob.

The car is new to me and the previous owner warned that the lock button on the fob was finicky. Well since I have owned it, the lock button has worked maybe three times.

I have two fobs. Exactly the same behavior.

When the lock does work, it will be immediately after I unlock with the fob. Pressing "lock" will immediately lock all doors. But then if I unlock again, lock will do nothing. Position of the FOB does not seem to matter.

Programming or battery seems unlikely (unless sending a lock signal takes more power then unlock?). The mechanism clearly works (electronics and mechanics must be fine?). I'm at a loss?

Would appreciate any suggestions on where to look next.

Graham
 
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