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Discussion Starter #1
I have found very little information on the actual electrical workings of the BCC... the best I can find is it contains a 'voltage capacitor' (i.e. a capacitor).

So... how is the BCC better then buying a big capacitor and wiring it up to battery positive whatever ground points you like?

All I know is, $150 can buy a hella big capacitor, a ton of wire, and plenty of connectors.

Can anyone get a picture of the interior electronics of the BCC? I'm wondering if there isn't more to it then a simple capacitor.

Thoughts?
 

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if some one can tell me how to wire this up i'll definitely give it a shot. i really want a BCC, but dint want to spend $150 to get one
 

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This is what I've read somewhere. You can make your own voltage stabilizer, but there are all sort of voltage stabilizers out there. Some use only capacitors and nothing else, some use coils, some use IC and etc. Some of them tend to wear out, I don't know why but that's what I heard.

As for me, I bought one just because it's name brand and dyno proven.
 

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I'd have to imagine--being that Buddy Club is a fairly established brand--that they're working with a bit more than just a capacitor, otherwise the "capacitor mod" would be as ubiquitous as the "grounding mod". For one, there's a blue LED in there as well :D
 

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Condensor
Voltage Stabilzer
and Ground

3in1
Guys shoulda got in the group buy for $100+ Ship....

Buddy Club has the only system out there with a condensor also, there are other knock offs of just a grounding kit, or just a voltage stabilizer kit, but not all three combined

Good luck finding someone that is willing to take it apart.... Maybe you can convince them to take it apart to change out the LED or something, and have them snap some shots while inside
 

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Discussion Starter #8
[quote author=roddy link=topic=70470.msg1232381#msg1232381 date=1172465413]
it's funny how many of these threads popped up after the gb and they complain that it's $150.
[/quote]

I make no complaints that it's $150; a dyno proven 10HP is certainly worth that. I have interest in purchasing it, but I have so little information on what the BCC actually is I just don't feel comfortable that I can't do it cheaper yet.
[quote author=Mattleegee link=topic=70470.msg1232324#msg1232324 date=1172463209]
Condensor
Voltage Stabilzer
and Ground

3in1
[/quote]
As far a I know 'condenser' is just an obsolete term for capacitor

'Ground' is obvious

'Voltage Stabilizer' could mean alot of things... most likely a ton of capacitance IMO

Thanks for the list ak47clown! Both call themselves 'votage stabilizers'; the first looks like just a cap bank (but he gives very little detail), the second looks almost exactly the same, with a total capacitance of .95F--alot of capacitance, to be sure.

I'll look at them both more closely tonight after work.

Thanks everyone
 

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[quote author=MZ3FRS link=topic=70470.msg1232844#msg1232844 date=1172482704]
[quote author=roddy link=topic=70470.msg1232381#msg1232381 date=1172465413]
it's funny how many of these threads popped up after the gb and they complain that it's $150.
[/quote]

I make no complaints that it's $150; a dyno proven 10HP is certainly worth that. I have interest in purchasing it, but I have so little information on what the BCC actually is I just don't feel comfortable that I can't do it cheaper yet.
[/quote]

One thing that's important to note is that the 10hp gain the dyno shows is over a range of, at most, a couple hundred rpm. The stock dyno had a dip or flat spot in the curve, and the +BCC dyno did not have the flat spot, so there was a 10hp difference right there.... but across the rest of the curve, the difference was about 2hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh I see what you mean dmention7.... maybe it's not so worth it :-\

My research has me pretty well convinced it's little more then a bunch of capacitors and an LED... I may see about slapping one together sometime, but for now my curiosity is satisfied :)

Thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter #12
$10 it will not be... probably more along the lines of $50 for the capacitors, plus cable and connectors. I've got a couple of projects I'll be ordering electronic parts for, so I may just throw some caps in along with it :)

I've got an old TV here I may rip apart and see what I can salvage... should be at least one big cap I can use. Or maybe I'll just electrocute myself to death haha.
 

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I probably got all the caps I need at work for this project if I want. Most of the ones we have are photo flash capacitors (from 150uf up to 2000uf) but I know there's standard ones around also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well to match the capacitance of the link you posted you'd need 475 2000uf caps.... I'd be surprised if your boss was that generous :-D

Now the real question here is .95F of capacitance really necessary? I doubt it; that's an insane amount of capacitance, and I don't see it physically fitting in the BCC's case.

I'd say .3F is a reasonable starting point... obviously more is better if you've got it. I should note I'm pretty much just making that number up... but I like it :)

Unfortunately I lack sufficient information to make a good numerical analysis... Anybody know the ratio of the alternator pulley? that'd be a good place to start. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here's something interesting from the other BCC thread running right now

[quote author=brandontrek link=topic=70366.msg1234482#msg1234482 date=1172529616]
it does hold charge...when i remove the positive terminal from my battery the BCC stays lit blue for approx. 2 min...
[/quote]

I'm not sure how many leds the BCC uses (I'm guessing 1-3) or exactly what current they run at (I'm gona guess 20-50mA when the cap is charged to say 13V) but based on this I can make a reasonable guess at the capacitance inside the unit.
When I say reasonable, I mean more reasonable then my random guess above. :)

Anyway, if there is only a single LED, operating at 20mA, I ballpark a total capacitance of ~0.05F
However, if there are 3 LEDs operating at 50mA, that number jumps to ~0.35F

So this gives us a useful range of capacitances to shoot for. Again, more is better, so something like .3F-.4F should work just fine.

Remember I've made an ungodly number of assumptions here, so don't put too much credence in these guesses; They are just a starting point.
 

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they wouldn't be much good anyway lol-rated at 330volts. and a 2000uf cap is about 1.5" diameter by 3 or 4" long
 

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I don't know about the assumptions you're making regarding the leds and the capacitance. Only reason i say this is because this is because we have a circuit in one of our flashes that kinda uses the same principle where an led stays lit until the capacitance is completely discharged (safety circuit). Most of the voltage goes through a giant resistor and then the led is run off a secondary circuit. Again, we're discharging between 2000-4000uf at 350 volts so obviously running that straight through a led would blow it up. with 16volts it's slightly more feasible but they still probably have some sort of resistor in place. I'll talk to the engineer i work with tomorrow about this thing. He knows everything-lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh yes, there's definitely a resistor in place.

I'm ballparking the capacitance through the RC circuit time constant. Basically the 'time constant' of an RC circuit is equal to the value of the resistor*the value of the capacitance. When the battery is disconnected, the capacitor will discharge to within 1% after 5 time constants (measured in seconds). Now the LEDs will turn off some time before 5 time constants b/c the turn off voltage of a blue LED is something like 3V. So I decided to assume to turn off time is gonna be ~4 time constants. so:
2 min= 120sec = 4 time constants

1 time constant= R*C=30 seconds

Using the current thru the different LED configurations I made up, I calculated resistor values thru V=IR. Now my only unknown in the time constant equation is the capacitance, and I can solve.

I'm certain there are much neater ways to do this (especially if we had more information) so if the engineer at work has any ideas I'd love to hear 'em.
 

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