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Discussion Starter #61
Good information guys. I'm running Dashcommand and didn't see anything abnormal. It does take a little longer than I'd like for AFR's to return to target at idle though.

I pulled the PCV hose on the intake and noticed a good buildup of oil inside. It is not dripping down the intake but I suspect it's enough to explain the oil consumption I have now. I also noticed the PCV outlet has oil buildup around the seals. I can't confirm if this is a normal condition since our PCV already generates higher than normal crank case pressures. But combined with the oil seeping near the alternator, this would explain a lot. See pictures below.

I've been researching the replacement procedure and can't believe Mazda chose to hide the valve behind the IM. The battery, intake, IC, throttle body and manifold will all likely be removed. For first-timers, this is easily a weekend job - especially if your tool selection is limited. So it looks like I'll be cleaning the intake valves along with replacing the PCV valve in the upcoming weeks.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f111/how-change-your-stock-pcv-valve-venturi-83614/


 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Sorry wrong label lol. But if the pcv valve fails, it can force excess oil out the breather tube from what I've read. I guess the only way to know is to replace the valve. Just not looking forward to the work. :(
 

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If normal operation happens you'll force stuff out the breather tube, it's pretty much why it's there.

Any blowby that happens under full throttle is going to overwhelm the PCV and make its way out the breather. PCV is only useful at part throttle and to block pressure from an intake backfire.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
That makes sense. The only reason I'm not suspecting seals or rings is because consumption has not reduced with a heavier weighed oil. At all.

Of course I could be tracking incorrectly but I'm fairly confident I burn the same amount consistently. Lots of idling and partial throttle in my daily commute. I'll circle back with an update once the new valve is in.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
You are right; it's under the IM connect to the crank case breather box. But everything here is technically part of the PCV system. In researching other failures, the PCV valve can plug and force oil up the breather, causing heavy deposits to accumulate there and up the intake/IC. It also forces seeping out the seals as you can see at the breather hose connection point, and as previously described under the alternator.

If the valve fails in an open state, I imagine the oil would get sucked straight into the IM with very little accumulation anywhere else. It's not a common failure from what I've been reading though. And I can't pull the PCV hose underneath to inspect without first removing the IM. I may try to take a peak through the TB before everything comes off.

Regardless, replacing the PCV valve is going to be my first step.
 

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You can pull the PCV hose without removing the IM. Jack the front up. But to replace the PCV you got to remove the IM. I have replaced my PCV hose with OCC lines. Did not remove my IM. If you remove the IM for the PCV replacement then get those intake valves cleaned of course. You can also pull your EGR tube and clean that bastard. Not much else to remove really. Gets full of crap. Since you will be removing your TB with IM.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Yeah that's good advice. The EGR tube, IM, valves, and TB will be cleaned thoroughly. Almost all of that has to come off the motor anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Quick update at 146K:

Good news and bad news.
- Tested the PCV; operates normally with one-way flow.
- Compression test good; 5% dip in cylinder #3 .
- Leakdown good; Max 10% loss in all cylinders.
- Re-inspected intake and IC piping. No excessive oil accumulation.

At this point all data suggests a leak on the exhaust side of the turbo. Synonymous with most high mileage turbo failures. So it looks like I will be in the market for another low mileage OEM KKK K04 (09+) and factory downpipe to replace the ones I have now. More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Update 150K:

Oil Consumption Issue:

After months of researching and collecting parts, I finally got the turbo replaced. I was fortunate to find a used 2nd Gen turbo with sub-50K. And the owner ran it with nothing more than an intake. Also, since I had been dumping oil the last 10K, I decided to swap out the DP while I was there. This was an odd issue as there was no smoke at idle and very little at WOT; just very aggressive oil consumption.

A lot of folks have asked what caused the failure. We suspect it was a bad turbo exhaust seal due to over-oiling. As most of us know, the factory PCV builds higher than normal crankcase pressure at idle, causing a partial blockage in the return line. That in turn can put excessive pressure on the seals as there is relatively little restriction in the oil feed line. It can also cause coking in the turbo as the oil literally "cooks" in one spot over time. I suspect this is also related to my oil cooler gasket failure, along with oil seepage near the alternator.

This is really only a problem with the Gen 1 PCV, as the Gen 2's have revised turbo oil inlet passages and a revised valve cover. In my case, had I caught early enough, a simple $30 restrictor bolt would have prevented this problem from occurring so early. Long term, Mazda has supplied a ventilation kit with a revised valve cover and TIP (Part ID L3Y1-13-S80B).
The final smoke at idle fix from Mazda TSB 01-002/11 dated 2/23/11 - Mazdaspeed Forums

It's only been about 30 miles but as far as I can tell, the smoke is gone. I've also noticed better throttle response under boost, with PSI peaking @ 17.5 vs. 16 on the old turbo. Time will tell if this fix is permanent. But for only a few hundred in parts, I feel this approach was well worth it. Worst case, I now have a spare turbo I can rebuild should the issue resurface.


AC Compressor Bearing

I had noticed some unusual noise under the hood. Along with intermittent AC, I decided it was time to pull the serpentine and inspect the pulleys. Sure enough, the AC compressor pulley was shot. Fortunately, I had a properly functioning pulley from the previous AC compressor I replaced.

To my dismay, after pulling apart the clutch and pulley, I realize now that Discount AC Parts sold me a base Mazda 3 compressor. It is a genuine Panasonic part, just the wrong one. And it explains now why the kit was so inexpensive. I take partial blame for not inspecting the parts more closely. And fortunately, MSF has a thread on this very issue.
A/C compressor clutch Finally a cheap Fix!! - Mazdaspeed Forums

I was able to source a similar Mazda 3 bearing through Autozone for $26, manufactured by Santech. And I was able to swap it out without having to remove the compressor assembly itself. However, after inspecting the clutch, I realized some excessive wear on the clutch friction material; likely from the bearing failure and excessive lateral play. Amazon offers a relatively cheap clutch kit, complete with pulley and coil. So I will replace the clutch this weekend with very little downtime. Hopefully this will give me another 50-75K before I source a remanufactured MS3-specific compressor. Combined with the parts from my old one, I don't feel I need to purchase another brand new.


KW Coilover Update

As many know I had been running the KW V2 coilovers for nearly 90K. They have continued to be dead quiet with no noise. However, I was noticing the front struts beginning to get weak. So I decided it was time to send them in for inspection. Dealing with KW is fairly easy. You fill out an RMA sheet with your coilover specs and proof of purchase. Then send to them for an RMA number. Within a week I had brand new strut inserts, bump stops, dust shields and associated hardware. Cost me a total of $26 in shipping. I am beyond impressed with KW's support; yet another reason to go with quality suspension.


Michelin Pilot A/S-3 Update

At 35K the Michelins are now worn down to 3/32 all around. They have worn surprisingly well and have maintained acceptable traction at all stages of their wear life. And I only noticed a slight loss in wet performance as the tires wore down past 5mm. Something I cannot say with any other tire I've owned, including the factory Potenzas. I will say like all A/S tires, they do get a little noisy the last 40% of their life. But for the 1-2 trips a year I do in the snow, I feel these are a fair compromise for summer-only tires. I've already picked up a new set of A/S-3's and will get them installed by this weekend.



That's it for now. Thanks for looking!

 

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Discussion Starter #73
Quick update after 400 miles. Oil consumption has slowed but not to a rate I had hoped. With strong compression and leakdown numbers, all evidence is pointing towards worn oil control rings. This is not an isolated issue with our cars, as evident in the thread below:
Mandinca's Oil Consumption Problem - Mazdaspeed Forums

So with a spare DP/MP on tap, I will likely ride things out for the next year or two. Then hand off to someone local wanting a cheap project car. Until then I'll keep updating this thread with any other things that come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Not sure yet. Need to find a good balance between reliability and fun factor, with room for the family. Looking to keep under 25K; maybe GTI, ST, WRX or '17 Si.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I think maintenance/reliability will be on par with the MS3. Electronics will be rock solid. But mechanically on par with the Americans and Germans.
 
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