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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Updated 9/14/15 @150K:
- Oil consumption issue <resolved>
- AC clutch bearing issue
- KW Coilover update
- Michelin Pilot A/S-3 update
http://www.mazda3forums.com/9882513-post72.html

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Updated 3/6/15 @ 139K:
- Oil consumption issue
http://www.mazda3forums.com/showpost.php?p=9737042&postcount=55

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Updated 12/1/14 @ 133K:
- Michelin AS/3 Update
- KW Coilover Update
- Ambient Temp Issue
- Oil Cooler Issue
http://www.mazda3forums.com/showpost.php?p=9649330&postcount=54

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Updated 5/21/14 @ 120K:
- Maintenance
- Audio and Android Integraion
http://www.mazda3forums.com/showpost.php?p=9323897&postcount=51

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Updated 8/30/13 @ 103K:
- AC Compressor issue
http://www.mazda3forums.com/showpost.php?p=8876602&postcount=44

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Updated 1/25/13 @ 89K:
- Maintenance
- Tires
- Brakes
- Bose Upgrade

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Updated 12/20/10 @ 45K, post #14:
- MSCAI Filter Cleaning (complete with near-disaster)
- Corksport Inserts
- H&R Coilover Update
- Hankook Ventus V12 Evo Update

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Updated 8/20/10, post #10
- Powergrid adjustable endlinks
- CPE Rear Motor Mount


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Model: 2009 CWP MS3 GT, purchased Jan 2009
Current mileage: 24,875
Mods:
-Rear bumper guards
-Wheel locks
-Ventureshield Clear Bra
-OEM iPod integration unit
-MSCAI



Premise

After seeing so many questions raised about MS3 reliability & maintenance, I thought I'd start a running log regarding my ownership of the MS3. I will update this thread every so often - kind of like a blog I guess - to give others an idea of your typical ownership experience. Unlike many, I plan to keep this car until the wheels fall off or family priorities dictate otherwise. Hope this proves useful to prospective buyers and fellow owners.




Maintenance/Reliability

After owning this car a year I can say it's been a worry-free DD. I've only had one warranty claim for the squeaky seat belt bolts. Beyond that, a few minor ticks/rattles from the console due to the nearly worn Bridgestone RE50's. Front passenger carpet separates from the plastic trim over time as people enter/exit the car. Also have an intermittent tick from the engine bay which only appears at certain RPMs. If I can isolate the noise, I'll probably have the dealer take a look. All of these things are more annoying than an actual problem.

Senior tech at the dealer (Tuttle Click Mazda of Irvine) seems to know his stuff and is always open to share his views on what goes wrong on these cars. Ironically, he sees very few Speeds in for warranty work, whether approved or denied. Biggest issue has been the HU, which was sourced through a new vendor starting in 08.5. Beyond that, one or two turbos from earlier models, a seized belt buckle, and a few other minor odds & ends.

I have the oil changed every 3,700 miles using whatever run-of-the-mill brand was chosen by the dealer. Get charged $26.00 for oil, rotation (every 7500), and basic inspection. Car is treated with respect around the service bay. Service Manager is a down to earth guy. Their stand on warranty claims is like most other Service Managers I've spoken with; change the oil and filters at the designated intervals and you're fine. They don't really pay attention to aftermarket parts unless they're excessive or a failure appears to be connected to a mod.


Mods

The clear bra was installed 7 days after getting the car and has been one of the best investments to date. I get a little dirt around the edges but nothing that can't be cleaned with a toothpick. Lifetime warranty on materials/installation, and the installer has offered to come back anytime to touch up the film as needed. I've had a few nasty high speed impacts, but the film has remained resillient. One small puncture about 1" wide from a sharp object at 70 mph. Everything else has buffed out with some clear wax and a little pressure.

Rear scuff guards were purchased in January 09 and have saved my butt more than once taking things in and out of the hatch. OEM iPod interface was purchased in March 09. It works well, though it sometimes shows a mismatch on the text display between the displayed artist/song and what is actually playing. Only happens when I hit the RDM function. MSCAI was purchased in May 09 and added 27 HP at the hubs (as measured by a Dynapack). As many others have said, car holds power all the way to 6K. I've had a couple issues with fuel cut/hesitation, but they are few and far between. I run the air straightener at a 45* angle as recommended by Mazda.


Driving Experience

Overall, this car is just as fun now as it was the first day I got it. I am slightly annoyed by the front end float, underdamped rear suspension, non-linear clutch engagement, and somewhat mysterious shifter at WOT. First two problems will be fixed next month with a decent coilover suspension. I might eventually replace the tranny mount like many others have done, but for now the vague shifts at WOT are liveable.

Car is predictable in the turns, though a bit unsettling at its limits. I suspect some of this has to do with the design of the rear suspension. The rear bump stops are apparently progressive and help to simulate a rapid increase in spring rate. So the initial contact with the stopper is very soft, but rapidly becomes stiff as you apply more pressure. So if you're on the stopper in a hard corner and hit a small bump, you'll get some unexpected wheel hop. I suspect with better rear dampers the car would react better to this type of condition. Wife feels the stock suspension is slightly annoying, but liveabe.

Everyone who has ridden in this car has commented on the interior design/quality. Alecantra trim is holding up well with no signs of premature wear. Seats are well bolstered yet surprisingly comfy - even on 8+ hour trips. Car is great for hauling just about anything, from groceries to flat screen TV's. Exhaust note is pronounced but not overpowering IMO.

Bose system is not horrible, but not great either. Highs and lows are puposely cut by the signal processor (I suspect to promote longer speaker life). CD changer works great, though a bit slow with MP3's. The Aux input restricts the signal somewhat which is one of the reasons I got the iPod adapter. Unlike some, my auto wipers work fine. I have sensitivity set in the middle.


That's it for now. Next update will be after I install the coilovers. Thanks for reading!

 

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thanks for taking the time to write this! :)
 

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subbed!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update @ 33K:


H&R Coilovers

Got a used set of H&R coilovers installed along with the SPC rear camber kit. It's a great suspension with a smooth and controlled ride. But unfortunately they are for the MZ3 variant. Hence, the front sits a little too low and makes a bit more contact with the bump stops than I'd like. I suspect this won't be an issue once the MS3 version is available (currently on backorder). Rears feel slightly overdamped. But that's expected with a sport shock setup. For the price, they are a quality setup. Can't really recommend them yet until the replacements are installed. But here's a quick list of impressions so far:

Likes:
- Install friendly. No drilling or custom fabrication required. You reuse all the stock components except the front bump stops. That makes the system especially quiet.
- Bilstein dampers. Enough said.
- Diminished front end float.
- Progressive coils. This makes the ride a bit more compliant than linear coilover systems. I can't fully comment on the ride quality due to the limited suspension travel, but it feels slightly stiffer than Pro-Kit springs. H&R advertises 7K F (P) and 3K R (P).
- Inverted front struts. These have slightly more free travel than comparable struts with an external bump stop. Also, due to the inverted design, the threaded coilover rings sit higher on the strut body and allow for a greater adjustment range. See link below:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1341/3145670234_large.jpg

Dislikes:
- Front brake line brackets. They are too small for the MS3 brake lines. However, they can be separated and made to fit with basic tools.
- Front end link brackets. They are about 1" too high on the strut body. This causes the sway bar to operate outside its intended range, causing some noise from the sway bar bushings. I believe this can be fixed with 1" longer end links.
- Rear adjustable perch mounts. They are inverted and difficult to access. To adjust, you may be required to disassemble the rear spring assembly and extract the perch.

Camber Kit
Now, about the SPC camber kit. It's a quality piece of engineering, but they are a PAIN to install. Why? The rear arms are in the way of just about everything. To replace, you technically have to disassemble the rear subframe to remove the EVAP PUMP which in turn provides enough clearance to remove the rear arm's bolt. Fortunately there's an ALTERNATIVE.

Adjustment isn't too bad. You have to unbolt the rear arm from the brake assembly and turn the bolt accordingly. Might have to do this a few times in order to fine tune your settings.


Maintenance

I was able to get 29K out of the stock RE50's. Replaced them with Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 in the stock size. First impression; they are not as quiet nor as sticky as the Bridgestones. But for 130.00 per corner, they are an excellent tire. I've put on 4K already and they still grip well, are fairly quiet, and are wearing evenly. Highly recommended as long as you don't drive in the snow.

I replaced the cabin filter at 30K as recommended by Mazda. As many have said, it's a pain in the tail to access. But the video below made it much less painful. The tutorial is spot on. But since you are disconnecting the fuse box I'd also recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable.
Cabin Air Filter Replacement Mazdaspeed 3

I've had no other issues besides the noise from my front sway bar bushings. Still change the oil at the dealer every 3.7K. Brake/tranny/PS fluids are all in good shape. Will probably replace them at 45-60K despite Mazda's claims of "lifetime" fluids. Interior is still holding up well. And I still average 22-26 MPGs with mixed driving.


Driving Impressions

Is it still fun? Absolutely. Despite some choppy road manners, the coilovers have really transformed this car's agility. Twistys are more rewarding, acceleration is more controlled, and the ride overall is more connected. Still love the whistle of the intake and catching people off guard at WOT. Still find excuses to take the family somewhere, anywhere.

Future plans include the sound system and wheels sometime early next year. Next update will be when the coilovers are replaced. Thanks for looking!

 

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Thats a damn good looking speed... Im hoping mine looks that good lowered. Quick question though, Im getting my KW variant 2 coils put on this week and wanted to know if its required to get the rear camber kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry just saw your post. Short answer is it will depend on your driving habits and how low you drop the car. IMO, as long as you straighten out the toe as much as possible, you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update @ 37K:


Powergrid Adjustable Endlinks

Took last weekend and installed a few parts I had laying around. First, the endlinks. Ever since I dropped the car on H&R coils the steering had become a bit numb. I was also getting a bit of noise as I would turn the wheel left or right. After talking with a few suspension gurus it was identified that the stock endlinks were causing the front sway bar to bind slightly.

As it was explained to me, the lower you drop the car the lower the front bar sits towards the ground. To compensate, you either need lower endlink brackets on the strut or longer endlinks. I opted for longer endlinks since H&R uses endlink brackets comparable to OEM. Here's a pic of the struts for comparison; OEM is on the bottom:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1341/3145670249_large.jpg

I specifically chose Powergrid for a couple of reasons. First, the endlinks are sealed like OEM, making them less susceptible to the elements (and associated noise). Second, Saitek - a member here - was running a group buy for custom length endlinks. After a few measurements I opted for a 1" longer version. Few pics below:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674001_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674002_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674004_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674005_large.jpg

The verdict? WOW. The car is once again nimble and reacts crisply to every input from the wheel. Turn-in is much more responsive. And all noises associated with the sway bar are now gone. Highly recommended.


CPE Rear Motor Mount

Now onto the motor mount. I had my choices narrowed down to Corksport and CPE. I elected to go with CPE because of the single piece design and testimonies from other users. IIRC, CPE makes three versions of the mount with varying levels of stiffness. There's a 60, 75, and 90 durometer. I went with the OTS version which is 75 duro. Quality and design are first rate. Beautiful piece of equipment:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674003_large.jpg

So how is it after 450 miles? STIFF. That's both a good thing and a bad thing. I love the performance. Love the crisp 1-2 & 2-3 shifts @ WOT. Love the wheels being planted to the ground. But I hate, HATE the vibes. Being a solid mount, you're going to hear and feel the buzzing of the motor at all RPM's. And at lower revs it resonates throughout the cabin - especially at around 900 RPM's with the AC on. Taking off from a stop occasionally feels like the flywheel is chattering. Someone else said it best; at idle it feels like a vibrating Lazy Boy on the lowest setting.

So why is my own assessment at odds with almost every other review? Well, when you do a majority of your driving with a wife and daughter blasting the AC in stop & go traffic, the vibes can get annoying quick. I've heard a few members complain about various RMM's in these types of driving conditions, so I know it's more a matter of circumstance than personal preference.

Overall I'd recommend this mount to anyone who's focused strictly on performance. It does exactly what it advertises. But if your MS3 is a DD, you might want to take a ride with someone who's already running this or a similar RMM. I know there's some additional break-in that will occur, but I unless it's drastic I expect to pawn off this mount to someone who'll use it to its full potential.



That's it for now. Thanks for looking!
 

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I also have a 09 MS3 CWP GT. Pretty much agree with you on everything. But I don't get the clicks you hear from the engine bay. One thing I want to add, as I'm still on stock suspension. To me, the stock suspension is ridiculously harsh.

The whole floaty up front and the stiff as rocks rear turns the car into a roller coaster. I understand the stock suspension is fairly good at handling and being stiff is one of its requirement. But holy shit, there are times when i'm just cruising and having a conversation, then suddenly we're tossed around by the smallest pothole.

Thought about doing an "ownership" thread too for my car. I still might, as my plans and ownership experience is different from yours. And yes, CWP is the best.
 

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[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=167369.msg3771638#msg3771638 date=1282425781]
Yeah aren't the Powergrid endlinks awesome? I was really surprised by the difference too. Been running mine for several months and they're phenomenal.
[/quote]

+1...have been very happy with mine as well that I installed a few months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah the endlinks have been great. Next to dampers I think they are one of the most overlooked components on a lowered car.


Update at 45K:


MSCAI Filter

Mazda recommends cleaning the filter every 20K so I took a couple hours off to get it done. First thought? A 2nd filter would be REALLY convenient lol. Most filters - even CAI ones - are pretty easy to access once installed. Mazda's version is a bit more challenging due to the splash shield. On a lowered car you're required to jack it up, remove the driver's side wheel/splash shields, and remove the MSCAI filter/splash shield assembly. Not to hard but certainly more work than a short ram. What's worse is that the filter takes a good 24-48 hours to dry depending on the weather. Here are a few pics of the process (for those who don't have the MSCAI):

- Filter cleaning kit (two bottles). Exact same contents as the AEM version, part #21-110.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674026_large.jpg

- Few shots of the filter removed. The lower splash shields need to be removed in order to access the filter assembly. On lowered cars, it's recommended you remove the driver's side front wheel for easier access.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674027_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674023_large.jpg

- The filter splash shield bolts directly to the intake piping. So removing the bolts first will allow you to disconnect and pull the assembly out from under. As you can see, the filter is impossible to remove without first unbolting the splash shield.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674028_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674021_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674019_large.jpg

- Cleaning the filter requires both bottles to be used. Empty one into a bucket of warm water and rotate the filter back and forth a few minutes to agitate the dirt. DO NOT allow the water to enter the neck or dirt released from the outer layer of the filter will adhere to the inner assembly and eventually soil the MAF. Remove the filter, tap off excess water, dump the bucket and repeat the process again.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674020_large.jpg


So how was the end result? Nearly disastrous. Took the car on a test drive after letting the filter air dry for 24 hours. Damn thing bogged violently on anything but a light tap on the throttle. Turns out the interior of the filter assembly was still slightly damp and interfering with the MAF under load. After letting the filter dry another 24 hours all was good. Inspected the MAF for any residue or dirt. Nothing. Could have easily been a $200 mistake. :(



CPE RMM Update/Corksport Inserts

As I mentioned previously the CPE 75 duro RMM wasn't quite working out. After a good 1K of constant driving with the HVAC on it was time for a change. Ended up doing a trade + cash with a member who had been running Corksport Inserts for 40K. The results were pleasantly surprising.

Many people on the boards claim the inserts wear out after several thousand miles. I can tell you first hand that's NOT the case - at least compared to stock that is. The inserts, despite having some hard miles on them, made a noticeable difference the moment I drove out the garage. Minor increase in NVH but Corksport retains approximately 60-70% of a solid mount's rigidity. The real test was the wife who didn't even notice a change over stock. The inserts alone won't completely solve wheel hop but it's a great compromise between performance and practicality. I'd consider this product a must-have.


H&R Coilovers Update

I had noticed the rear end getting a bit squirrely over uneven roads and suspected one of the shocks might be getting a little weak. Imagine my surprise when I saw this:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674007_large.jpg

You can't really tell in the crappy cellular pic but that's oil all over the rear passenger shock. Completely blew the seal. Fortunately Bilstein rebuilds H&R dampers as the internals are very similar. Difference is that H&R uses more aggressive damping to compensate for the lower ride height.

According to the guy who performed the service the shock blew because of excess dirt in the shaft. The good news is that it only costs about $65 for general servicing. The bad news is that the excess dirt scored the rod and required a new one to be custom cut to match. Total cost was just over $100 and was done in less than 4 business days. Hats off to Bilstein for excellent service and communication.

So does H&R have crappy build quality? Nope; my own damn fault. When you trim the rear jounce bumpers for additional suspension travel, you have to remove the dust shields. Hence the excess dirt in the shaft. So when putting the shocks back in I added a nylon cap for extra protection.


Hankook Ventus V12 Evo Update

In dry weather the Hankooks are still holding up great. Getting a little noisy but expected of a tire with 16K worth of wear. What I didn't expect was how slippery they've become in the wet. Some of it is due to the uneven wear pattern generated by the increased camber/toe of the lowered ride height. But I still have another 4-5mm left of usable tread. So I'll plan to flip the tires on the next rotation interval and monitor their performance. I suspect they'll be replaced by the summer if not sooner.



That's it for now. Thanks for looking!

 

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how much did the cabin air filters run you price wise? i would like to do mine.... im at 33k miles
 

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RE: Reply #10

I see I'm not the only one who thought the CPE mount was way too rough. I had it out of the car in 24 hours. No amount of break-in will make that thing tolerable.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah it's a little ironic to see so many people claim it's the end-all to traction issues. In reality it's more of a physics problem (FWD) than a design flaw. Still had wheel hop with the CPE mount though not as prevalent. The OEM mount does a decent job of allowing just enough flex to eliminate almost all NVH in the cabin. But for some it's too soft (i.e. torn) either because they are primarily focused on performance from a dig or are running 50+ HP.

In your case I'd recommend the inserts as they really are the best of both worlds. Keeps the transmission relatively planted for better shifting at WOT.


[quote author=Carowen link=topic=167369.msg3887930#msg3887930 date=1292861363]
how much did the cabin air filters run you price wise? i would like to do mine.... im at 33k miles
[/quote]

They're about 30 bucks at onlinemazdaparts.com. Here's the link:
http://onlinemazdaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214264&chapter=&sectionids=9,0&groupid=10074&subgroupid=20020&componentid=60038&make=22&model=Mazda%203&year=2007&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update at 50K




Maintenance


Pads and Rotors

At 47K the OEM pads were getting a little thin. In fact, they were so worn I hadn't even noticed that one of the inner pads had worn down to the backing plate. Picked up replacement pads and rotors through onlinemazdaparts.com for about $300.

I had been thinking about trying a set of aftermarket pads since many go for half the price of OEM. But after driving two MS3's with Hawk HPS pads equipped, I realized OEM is worth the price. Hawk and other street pads aren't bad. But in addition to reduced initial bite, they just require some extra braking effort to stop on par with OEM. And I really like the feel of the Mazda pads.

Being new to ABS, I enlisted my buddy Tony to help out with the swap. With the exception of the retainer spring, they're really no different than standard brakes. But I found it interesting that Mazda does not use brake lubrication on the slider pins or pad guides. In the future I'll probably do them myself - they're that easy.

Few photos:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674102_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674101_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674103_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674104_large.jpg

Tony taking apart the assembly. That original pad is THIN:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674105_large.jpg

After driving the car for a bit I've noticed the pedal is still a little soft. Still holds pressure and stops on a dime. But I miss the firm brake feel I used to have. I may have them bled and see if that solves the issue. Otherwise I'll take it to a pro for some more integrated diagnostics. More about that in the future.


CEL

So at about 48K I had my check engine light go off. Ran the codes with a little $45 scanner tool I picked up at Harbor Freight. Pulled these codes:
- P2187 - Too Lean at Idle Bank 1
- P0442 - P0442 Evap System Small Leak
- P0456 - Evap System Very Small Leak

After a bit of reading I suspected it was a bad purge valve. Apparently a common problem with these cars. So I took the car do the dealer and handed them a copy of a TSB about the issue:
http://www.miatamania.com/graphics/products/miata_service_bulletins/01-021-09-2108.pdf

Sure enough, 5 hours later my car is good to go with a new purge control valve installed (had it shipped from a nearby dealer). No other maintenance issues to report.





Pirelli PZero Nero Tires

In my previous entry I mentioned some aggressive wear on the Hankook Ventus Evos. Turned out they were shot at 18K. I did run them at .1* Toe-In on the front. But I'm still surprised they burned through this quickly. My next set would need to last a little longer and have basic all season capabilities. Enter the Pirelli PZero Nero.

We have Pirelli's on my wife's car. Fairly quiet. Long life. Good grip. All around, a decent tire for the money. And for the MS3, Pzero Nero's faired pretty well on TireRack:
Finding the "Ultra" in Ultra High Performance All-Season Tires

Picked up a set through Discount Tire for 160 each installed. Stock size; 400 treadwear rating; 45K warranty. Despite the harder compound, my first impression is favorable. Fairly low noise (not as quiet as Hankook) and excellent grip w/o squeal. We have rain coming here tomorrow so we'll see how they fair in the wet. But so far I'm happy with them. I'll post a couple of pictures of them next time.






KW V2 Coilovers

I had mentioned in an earlier post that I was looking to replace the used H&R coilover set I picked up in April. Main reason was because the set I bought was designed for the MZ3 and had minimal suspension travel up front. I also wanted topside rebound control for family outings.

So last week I finally had a new set of V2's installed. Once again my buddy Tony was kind enough to help out. Few photos:

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674050_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674052_large.jpg

KW supplies a more aggressive strut bushing (bearing pack):
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674080_large.jpg

KW requires you to reuse the OEM strut perch. Here's a photo of it assembled with KW's strut bushing:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674074_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674078_large.jpg

KW also requires you to use a 10mm drill bit to widen the rear OEM top mount. Few photos of the completed effort:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674089_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674090_large.jpg

Pics installed on the car. The black marks on the strut indicate max in min height range:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674086_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674087_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674092_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674091_large.jpg

Pics of the car. Rear is at the initial drop and front is 2mm lower. Since then I've lowered the car another 2-3mm:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674093_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674094_large.jpg


I've only put on a few hundred miles so I'll share some high level impressions.
- Stiff but not harsh
- Dead quiet
- Excellent control over multiple undulations

The ripple effect from undulations - especially on the highway - was a huge fault of both the OEM suspension and the H&R coilovers. The OEM rear shocks were too underdamped to control chassis movement while the H&R's were slightly overdamped. I still think the H&R's provide a more compliant ride under most conditions, but the V2's have a wider range of "acceptable" road manners (due to the adjustable rebound). I also like KW's placement of the strut endlink mounts and rear adjustment perch. Money well spent.

V2's have 18 levels of rebound adjustment. On the recommended settings (9 clicks), low speed damping can get a bit irritating around town. However, dialing back the rebound 4-5 clicks is much better for the daily commute. For aggressive days, the recommended settings work well.






That's it for now, but plan to have an update on the tires and coilovers after another 1K of use. Thanks for looking!

 

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Very nice update! Especially on the v2!

Can you tell me whether or not you had to take off the wheels to adjust the rebound on v2? I'm thinking about getting the v3 and I can only assume the design will be similar.
 
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