Mazda3 Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a used Mazda 3 and it has a couple of issues

1) It leaks transmission fluid about a drop a second
2) Whenever I put it into Drive or Reverse the RPMs drop to 500 and the car shakes. When on park it idles perfectly. In the picture attached, is it dented to point where the trans is damaged?

106124

106126


I was told that I would just need to replace the entire transmission to resolve this issue? It sounds like a new pan and sealing would fix issue #1, how about issue #2?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
No way for anyone here to tell you anything because it's impossible know how long the vehicle might have been run with excessively low fluid level, and how much damage (if any) was done to the transmission. Also an FYI that the vehicle shaking does not automatically mean the transmission is bad, and is actually more likely to be caused by a bad motor mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
What m3iguy said and dent itself is not horrible unless it is the cause of the leak, i.e. pan is cracked or has pinhole due to rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
What year is it? I would be concerned that someone sold you a damaged and/or neglected car and this could be just one of many problems to come.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I just bought a used Mazda 3 and it has a couple of issues

1) It leaks transmission fluid about a drop a second
2) Whenever I put it into Drive or Reverse the RPMs drop to 500 and the car shakes. When on park it idles perfectly. In the picture attached, is it dented to point where the trans is damaged?

I was told that I would just need to replace the entire transmission to resolve this issue? It sounds like a new pan and sealing would fix issue #1, how about issue #2?
I've removed the pan before and dropped the valve body as well. That dent is probably not causing anything serious. There is a transmission oil filter that hangs out at that level. Worst case the transmission oil filter is bent or maybe even not being able to pick up all the oil in the pan. Buy a new pan, it isn't very expensive. Get a new transmission oil filter and some fluid. Just get the fluid from Mazda. It will cost more, but it is the right stuff and you don't need to cross reference and risk putting in the wrong stuff. The Mazda3 I worked on didn't use a gasket for the transmission oil pan, but rather used RTV. You can get it from Mazda parts counter or use Permatex "The Right Stuff" from the auto parts store -- get the stuff in the caulk type tube and use a caulk gun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What year is it?
2005 2.3L

I've removed the pan before and dropped the valve body as well. That dent is probably not causing anything serious.
Thanks this was the info I was looking for, I will replace the pan anyways and reseal as the leak could be from that. I will check if it valve body when I remove pan (y)

is actually more likely to be caused by a bad motor mount.
Not the case, as I already replaced the driver's side and inspected the rear/passenger side mounts. Still doesn't explain the RPM drop along also 😕

Thanks to everyone that replied to this thread, super helpful!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I have a 2008 2.0L and had a similar problem with my transmission pan. Pin hole leaks caused by impact (a muddy dirt road in the spring) or rust or a combination. I replaced the pan, gasket, and filter, plus new AT fluid, for about $100 total. You'll want to scrape off the remnants of the old silicone seal before installing the new gasket and pan. There are some YouTube videos that detail the whole process pretty well.

Do you notice RPM surging, lagging, or hesitancy on acceleration? Or any gear slippage or other signs of "off" transmission behavior?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ended up replacing the pan, the gasket, and the filter. Fixed some of the leaking. Looks like there's leakage from the hole underneath the transmision. Im guessing the torque converter is bad

Do you notice RPM surging, lagging, or hesitancy on acceleration?
Car runs perfectly fine if you let off the brake in drive (let the car roll). However as soon as you brake and come to a stop it would shudder.

In the end, I got the car super cheap and am just going to let it go. Thanks everyone you replied and helped out
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top