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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't believe this! I need to replace my serpentine belt and possible tensioner pulley @ 65k km's on a 08 Mazda 3? This is seems a bit soon to be replaced to me. Anyone with a similar amount on their ODO have to change out these parts? So much for saving up for my various other mods DANGIT!:no clue:
 

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Not a lot of distance but a lot of time... Did the car sit for a while or something? And mine has 120,000 miles and mine are still good. (maybe the previous owner or dealer changed them before I bought it with 60k miles on it though...)
 

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The car I was told a lease return, and the car was kept only in British Columbia which has the most mild weather of all of Canada. I did some searching and a cheap band aid is to gently scuff up the glazed pully with some emery paper and give the belts a quick rub down to remove and glazing also. This may produce some purchace on the system until I buy a new tensioner $140-60CAD and a new belt $40.....so much for that eibach lowering kit that a fellow BC'er has for sale on here:cry:

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=511514
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Any hoo after a bit googlin found this very helpful thread from ToronoMazda3.com, pulley replacement thread. No one has stated whether or not you can pull the the new serp belt in between a space on the AC belt? It may be doable as there seems to be no problem with my AC belt. Damn I hat it when parts fail :( I also noticed when car was at idle, there was side to side play and also mega vertical play in the belt when pushing down on it. Not sure whether or not this is just belt play due to loss of belt tension, or the tensioner itself losing it's ability to keep proper load on the serpentine belt. Mazda stealership has quoted me 116+ tax for the new belt installed. I also noticed that threads are showing on the back side of the belt!! Some chafing on the sides of the belt also. Well I may just get them to do it. If I need a new tensioner I will replace that looks simple 3 bolts swap in and swap out. Or I may just say fuck it and buy new AC belt new tensioner and serp belt and do all my self....decisions decisions!:grin:

Here is the diagram from the thread showing the mega pulley assortments LOL



http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?49306-Tensioner-Pulley-noise-easy-and-cheap-fix
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well got the serp belt changed today, and the squeal noise is still there. The tensioner pully did not go to it's top notch. The Mazda tech said he hears the noise coming from the CAI(newly converted to SRI) So this leads me down another path of possibilties, that being the PVC valve sticking from what I seen on on YT this can cause a similar noise. It drives me nuts, happens under load between 2-300 RPM's Grrrrr....in second and pretty much all other gears. This noise totally sounds like when my pilot bearing when on my 79' BMW 320i, it's like the exact same noise under load and especially up hills....oh well at least I have new belt on the other one was thrashed starting to fray on the edges and the join threads on the top were starting to fray apart as well, no cracking on them, but the water pump pully has quite a bit of scoring on it.
 

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Well got the serp belt changed today, and the squeal noise is still there. The tensioner pully did not go to it's top notch. The Mazda tech said he hears the noise coming from the CAI(newly converted to SRI) So this leads me down another path of possibilties, that being the PVC valve sticking from what I seen on on YT this can cause a similar noise. It drives me nuts, happens under load between 2-300 RPM's Grrrrr....in second and pretty much all other gears. This noise totally sounds like when my pilot bearing when on my 79' BMW 320i, it's like the exact same noise under load and especially up hills....oh well at least I have new belt on the other one was thrashed starting to fray on the edges and the join threads on the top were starting to fray apart as well, no cracking on them, but the water pump pully has quite a bit of scoring on it.
Pilot bearing does nothing unless your foot is pressing the clutch in. Unless you clutch is slipping. It won't make a noise under load unless it's while you're not fully off the clutch pedal.


If the PCV valve is indeed sticking open(pulling a massive vacuum on the crankcase) you'll be able to feel a LOT of resistance if you try to remove the oil cap while your car is idling. Audi/VW PCV systems fail like this all the time, it damn near takes 2 hands to pull the oil cap off when this happens. If you can remove your oil cap with minimal resistance(there SHOULD be a VERY minor vacuum if any) then it's fine as far as that goes.


I have an 09... that belt routing looks wrong to me. I've got one big ass serpentine belt for everything, and a second belt just for the A/C compressor.

edit:



FWIW my car's belt has a slight chatter in cold weather. Not really abnormal.



Remove your belt and check all your pulleys for play. Also spin them. Every one of them. The water pump should have absolutely zero in-out play. The tensioner and idlers will probably have a tiny bit of side-side play as most do even brand new. If there's a bunch of dark rusty dust looking build up on one of your pulleys it's probably suspect. If you can spin any of the pulleys and your hear a whirring noise or whatever, it's bad. If a tensioner/idler pulley is in really good shape, they'll actually not spin completely freely because the sealed bearings still have some preload in most cases... but they will be quiet.


When does this noise occur? Is it at idle? If so, remove all your belts(or do it one at a time) and run the car without the belt(s) to see if the noise goes away. Easy way to figure out if you're wasting time or not looking at accessories. If it happens when accellerating you can probably start it up and go down the street and back if you're quick about checking it. Alternator won't be charging so be smart about it.



Also a bandaid for belt noise that actually works is to use a wire brush to clean the belt and pulleys so you can actually get into the grooves, don't overdo it, just until you stop seeing dust/crap fly off... then turn the car off and take a dab of dielectric grease and smear it on the serpentine belt enough to cover about the size of a couple quarters. Start it up and it should be pretty quiet. Dielectric grease is not "greasy" despite the name... it gets real tacky when spread thin. Works 100x better than any "belt dressing" crap you'll find at parts stores... they normally make squealing WORSE in my experience.
 
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