[cali_axela]

On the way home from work today, my car decided to start misfiring like crazy and absolutely dumping fuel, and wouldn't idle. Turned it off and back on, drove horribly but hobbled home (barely). Codes were P300 (of course, for the misfiring) and one I haven't seen: P0335.

Does anyone have a service manual, or experience helping me diagnose and replace that? Thanks

 

[verto]

that code causes you to have no spark, which is why you couldn't idle and were dumping fuel.

i would start by inspecting the crank pulley and the reluctor wheel. also check the sensor to make sure it didn't get knocked or anything.

have you reset the ecu yet to see if it comes back? it may just be a fluke thing?

 

[cali_axela]

This started happening once I unhooked and rehooked the ECU harness because I was working on the transmission linkage area and it was in the way... I am thinking now maybe I pulled out a wire or something, hmm...

 

[verto]

mmmm ok... after digging thru the workshop manual i have the following info:

P0335
CKP sensor circuit problem
ON
1
CCM
×
(See DTC P0335 [LF])

crankshaft sensor resistance: 400-550 ohms
camshaft sensor is the same resistance

the wires on the ECU side are: 2Y and 2Z
wires on ECU for camshaft sensor are: 2V and 2U


DTC P0335



CKP sensor circuit problem

DETECTION CONDITION

• If the PCM does not receive input voltage from the CKP sensor for 4.2 s while MAF is 2.0 g/s {0.26 lb/min} or above, the PCM determines that the CKP sensor circuit has malfunction.
Diagnostic support note
• This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
• MIL illuminates if PCM detects the above malfunction conditions during first drive cycle.
• PENDING CODE is available if PCM detects the above malfunction condition.
• FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
• DTC is stored in the PCM memory.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

• CKP sensor malfunction
• Connector or terminal malfunction
• CKP sensor is dirty
• Short to power supply in wiring harness between CKP sensor terminal A to PCM terminal 2Y
• Short to power supply in wiring harness between CKP sensor terminal B to PCM terminal 2Z
• Short to ground in wiring harness between CKP sensor terminal A to PCM terminal 2Y
• Short to ground in wiring harness between CKP sensor terminal B to PCM terminal 2Z
• Open circuit in wiring harness between CKP sensor terminal A to PCM terminal 2Y
• Open circuit in wiring harness between CKP sensor terminal B to PCM terminal 2Z
• CKP sensor pulse wheel malfunction
• Both CKP sensor wires are shorted each other

Diagnostic procedure

STEP



INSPECTION



ACTION

1
VERIFY FREEZE FRAME DATA HAS BEEN RECORDED
• Has FREEZE FRAME DATA been recorded?

Yes

Go to the next step.
No

Record the FREEZE FRAME DATA on repair order, then go to the next step.
2
VERIFY RELATED REPAIR INFORMATION AVAILABILITY
• Verify related service repair information availability.
• Is any related repair information available?

Yes

Perform repair or diagnosis according to available repair information.
• If the vehicle is not repaired, go to the next step.
No

Go to the next step.
3
VERIFY CKP SENSOR VOLTAGE
• Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
• Connect voltmeter between CKP sensor terminals A and B (sensor-side).
• Inspect the voltage in AC range while cranking the engine.
• Is any voltage reading?

Yes

Go to the next step.
No

Go to Step 10.
4
INSPECT POOR CONNECTION OF CKP SENSOR CONNECTOR
• Verify that the CKP sensor connector is connected securely.
• Is the connector normal?

Yes

Go to the next step.
No

Reconnect the connector, then go to Step 11.
5
INSPECT CKP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER
• Turn the ignition switch to off.
• Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
• Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (Engine off).
• Measure the voltage between following terminals

- CKP sensor terminal A
- CKP sensor terminal B

• Is any voltage reading?

Yes

Repair or replace the wiring harness, then go to Step 11.
No

Go to the next step.
6
INSPECT CKP CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND
• Inspect for continuity between following terminal and body ground:

- CKP sensor terminal A (wiring harness-side)
- CKP sensor terminal B (wiring harness-side)

• Is there continuity?

Yes

Repair or replace the wiring harness, then go to Step 11.
No

Go to the next step.
7
INSPECT CKP CIRCUITS FOR SHORTS
• Inspect for continuity between CKP sensor terminals A and B (wiring harness-side).
• Is there continuity?

Yes

Repair or replace the wiring harness, then go to Step 11.
No

Go to the next step.
8
INSPECT POOR CONNECTION OF PCM CONNECTOR
• Disconnect the PCM connector.
• Inspect for poor connection (such as damaged/pulled-out pins, corrosion).
• Is there any malfunction?

Yes

Repair the terminal, then go to Step 11.
No

Go to the next step.
9
INSPECT CKP CIRCUIT FOR OPEN CIRCUIT
• Inspect for continuity between following terminals:

- CKP sensor terminal A (wiring harness-side) and PCM terminal 2Y (wiring harness-side)
- CKP sensor terminal B (wiring harness-side) and PCM terminal 2Z (wiring harness-side)

• Is there continuity?

Yes

Go to Step 11.
No

Repair or replace the suspected wiring harness, then go to Step 11.
10
INSPECT CKP SENSOR
• Turn the ignition switch off.
• Perform CKP sensor inspection.
(See CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR INSPECTION [LF])
• Is CKP sensor normal?

Yes

Go to the next step.
No

Inspect the CKP sensor pulse wheel for damage. Replace the CKP sensor pulse wheel and go to the next step.
11
VERIFY TROUBLESHOOTING OF DTC P0335 COMPLETED
• Make sure to reconnect all disconnected connectors.
• Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (Engine off).
• Clear the DTC from the PCM memory using the WDS or equivalent.
• Start engine.
• Access MAF PID using the WDS or equivalent.

Note

• MAF PID should indicate 2.0 g/s {0.26 lb/min} or above during this test

• Is the same DTC present?

Yes

Replace the PCM, then go to the next step.
(See PCM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [LF].)
No

Go to the next step.
12
VERIFY AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE
• Perform the "After Repair Procedure".
(See AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE [LF].)
• Are any DTC present?

Yes

Go to the applicable DTC troubleshooting.
(See DTC TABLE [LF].)
No

Troubleshooting completed.







good luck. if you need the manual i have one. :lol:

 

[cali_axela]

Thanks Verto, that helped a lot. I confirmed over the phone w/ my trusted mechanic that my sensor is going bad, possibly overheated he says can happen to it sometimes. He's ordering it for me

 

[speed_racer]

^ Yay at least you know what it is! You should just throw away your code reader or whatever and use trusted and beloved Mr. Mazda! :lol:

 

[FemGearHead]

Ryan, you can give me your code reader instead.

 

[cali_axela]

They're only like $20 or $30 on eBay, just get your own

 

[dugger_8]

Do you think the sensor being caked in oil for an extended period of time would cause it to go bad, lol. Mine idles rough and stalls after a drive and then I start it back up (like going to the gas station and filling up then leaving). I cleaned it off but I think it was doing this before I did that not after. I could be mistaken though and it was after I cleaned it off.

 

[cali_axela]

Hmmm, if you mainly notice it after filling up w/ gas, it could be the purge solenoid valve. This was a out-of-the-blue total failure type thing.

 

[dugger_8]

The gas thing was just an example. I could go to Subway for a sandwich and come back out and it'd do it there too.

 

[trackfeen]

Can anyone show me a diagram of where the sensor is exactly located and how to get it it.. Dumb question I know.. but i kinda wanna know what I am looking at..

 

[verto]

on the crank pulley, bottom of the passengerside of the motor.

 

[reactiveracing3]

I just had my Crank Position Sensor throw a code on me, and leave me sitting on the interstate. I wiggled the wires a little and took a look at the sensor to see if there was anything noticeable. I'll report back if I find anything interesting.

Do these sensors go bad often?

 

[dugger_8]

Besides you and Cali I've not seen anyone else's go bad.

 

[offlineracing]

Take a look at the crank angle sensor.

1. make sure it is plugged in
2. unplug sensor and clean connection. Make sure their is no corrosion inside either end of the connection plug.
3. the crank sensor has two bolts and a little adjustment. Look in the book and find the gap. besure the bolts have not loosened up.
4. you can also do Ohms(resistance) Test on the crank angle sensor to see if it has gone bad.

normally they do not go back. I have seen them come loose and throw a code and make the car not idle properly.

Hope this helps,

-Ali

 

[reactiveracing3]

I replaced the CKP sensor and still got a "Malfunction circuit A" code.. Now I do not get a code, I just get the car shutting off on me once in a while.

It seems to be whenever I go over a bump with some speed (45+mph). I did all the circuit tests for the crank sensor with no avail. Does anybody know if the Cam position sensor would throw the same code for the ignition malfunction that I am getting? I have been methodically working down the harness trying to find something physically wrong with it.

This has really got me stumped with my car on jacks in my garage as of yesterday. I will report back with codes/results of findings.

 

[pinkcheese]

I had this same issue. Did you notice your tachometer everynow and then spiking showing rpm's that you know aren't correct?
Check the harness the sensor is on also check the plug and see if there is a break in the wire. Do the shake test, shake the harness all the way from the sensor to the ECU see if there is a small break. I found this sensor is very sensative and the wires for the harness get brittle very fast even with a heat shield around them, due to the turbo heat.

I ended up replacing about 1ft of harness to solve this issue and I still today have a code just on startup saying it is out of range. Also is your CKP sensor wires going into the ecu broken or still 1 solid wire?

 

[kiker0074]

Hi Verto.. do you know where the Sensor is in a 2004? my mazda is doing the same thing. Do you know how much is the sensor?

 

[Frank-C]

My experience with crank sensors has been small but when one was failing on my old BMW to spruce it up a bit remove it if there are any little flecks of metal on it (as they are magnetic) clean it up, and also put a dab of dielectic grease on the clips. This does help isolate the electrical charge at the harness point. These things are VERY electrically sensitive, as they pick up reference points on the crank revving at 1000's of times per minute with elecromagnetivity.