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Discussion Starter #561
Update, finally got around to pulling the valve cover and turbo/exhaust manifold. Cams are clean, plugs still look good, so at this point I have no idea what actually failed. My theory of a busted oil line was incorrect, both lines were still on the turbo tight and are intact. It looks like the fuel line which runs from the firewall to the rail was where the initial failure happened. Turbo has practically no shaft play and fins spin fine, only very minor damage to them. Main problem is tons of corrosion from the layer of fire extinguisher dust, but a bath and a rebuild and I think it'll be good to go again! Probably need a new wastegate though, it's pretty f-ed up.



 

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Seriously random then man! Hopefully something will clue you into why the fuel rail may have failed... o ring on an injector or something stupid like that lol... had you done anything to that area recently?
 

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Discussion Starter #565
You know, I think this might be related to replacing the purge solenoid valve a couple weeks before it happened. The line for that was all tangled up around the turbo inlet piping, and I decided to run it a different way with the new valve. Maybe the way I ran it was retarded, and that line pulled on the fuel line or something under load? That's the only thing I can possibly think of, and the only thing that changed relatively recently.
 

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Is the motor actually intact other than fire damage to the wiring harness? Or was there a tossed rod?
 

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Discussion Starter #570
I haven't dropped the pan yet but the block is intact and the oil didn't look too bad coming out, some white chunks so I was thinking a busted valve if anything.
 

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This is so odd. Your block MIGHT actually be ok, just replace all the plastic stuff and be good to go. I'd be tempted to take all the stuff you need off the sedan just so you could crank it over and run a compression test on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #573
Damn, yeah, the couple places I talked to wouldn't touch it and couldn't offer any advice. I'll call ATP, good idea.

And yeah Smokin, that's a good idea -- except I'd have to transfer over sooo much crap. Although most of it I'll have to transfer over anyways, I guess...
 

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hmm, so now i have a question in regards to your fuel line splitting, i got rid of the hard plastic for both the Purge solenoid, and my fuel line to a Rubber fuel line hose, which is safer?
 

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Discussion Starter #575
I'd assume the factory hard line is safest, the part the failed was the rubber part connecting the hard line to the rail.
 

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[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=131353.msg3955314#msg3955314 date=1299546302]
I'd assume the factory hard line is safest, the part the failed was the rubber part connecting the hard line to the rail.
[/quote]


uh-o.
 

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Discussion Starter #577
I'm wondering if the factory rubber hose isn't designed to work with race fuel? I was running pretty much pure 100-oct unleaded that event, I usually mix it 50/50 with pump 91.
 

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[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=131353.msg3955325#msg3955325 date=1299546845]
I'm wondering if the factory rubber hose isn't designed to work with race fuel? I was running pretty much pure 100-oct unleaded that event, I usually mix it 50/50 with pump 91.
[/quote]


I cant imagine that would be your issue, considering cain i belive runs the factory hose lines.

Have you thought about converting to steel braided lines, i saw that kid going crazy with the all motor build, runs steel braided lines as a fuel line.
 

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[quote author=cali_axela link=topic=131353.msg3954814#msg3954814 date=1299525178]Main problem is tons of corrosion from the layer of fire extinguisher dust, but a bath and a rebuild and I think it'll be good to go again!
[/quote]

That's why I love these new HalGuard extinguishers... they are like liquefied halon.. it's awesome. No residue! I keep one in mine.

http://www.h3rperformance.com/

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=55404
 
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