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From reading other forums I have discovered that the techniques discussed by this website - http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm - are hotly debated and in some forums accepted. When I get my 3 I'll probably go through break-in using this guide. I'm wondering if break-in would be any different using Sport AT to control the RPMs than regular AT.

Thanks for the help guys! :)
 

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Wow, this is a pretty interesting method. Reading it over, it seems to explain a lot. IMO I wouldn't be surprised if ALL the car manufacturers got together and decided to tell everyone to break in their cars the "old-fashioned" way that everyone is used to, just so cars WOULD break down early. If everybody's car was as reliable as a Corolla that lasted for 15+ years, why would people want to buy new cars? The car industry would be in HUGE trouble. If a car has engine trouble after 80,000 miles, people aren't going to think it was caused by something they were told to do in the first hundred miles of the break in period, and why would they, the owners manual HAS to be right because its in there. Probably why this thread has been so quiet is that there could be a lot of PO'ed new Mz3 (or any car for that matter) owners that found out that the way they broke in their car may hurt it in the future. I will definitely break in my 3 using MotoMan's way, should be interesting to compare the power/reliability of other 3's that had an easier break in. As I see it, the break in period is like a training mode for a car. Train it hard and it will perform just as well further down the road; Glad this car has such a good warranty, if something were to happen within the first 2,000 miles, I will just take it back to the dealership.

Lordz - Using the Sport AT may be an advantage than the regular AT just due to the fact the car will not change gears before you are ready and be able to get that tach revving high.

Hope to get some more views on this topic
 

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Great article. A follow-up question, if I may. What is the truth about using synthetic oil during the break-in period. since Corvette, Porsche, M-B, among others, specify synthetic, I can't believe it's an issue.

Comments?
 

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I buy new cars for looks, gas mileage, and new toys.... Like navigation systems. :p
 

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If everybody's car was as reliable as a Corolla that lasted for 15+ years, why would people want to buy new cars?
At least in America, people would buy new cars for the sake of having a new car.
 

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Kazbaeden said:
At least in America, people would buy new cars for the sake of having a new car.
What's your point?
 

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Actually I was being sarcastic - while there are some real reasons, I was doing just fine with the P5. I would the 3 for the sake of having one bad ass car. :)
 

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Just drive

It is old fashioned to keep it going to 2500RPM or whatever. Unfortunately, I happen to just drive like that to begin with. Poor me. I've already broken it in, it's at 1100KMs. I did bring the RPM's up every now and again from 800kms-on though, no biggy.

My friend said just drive it, don't worry about the break-in stuff. Technically, Mazda doesn't really recommend the break-in, they just suggest it as a guideline.

IMHO, just drive it. I couldn't redline it anyway since the snow is 10cms deep on the roads for the past 3 weeks. If you can, go for it.
 

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this article seems to suggest changing the oil at 20 mi.. or after you do your hard break in.. i wonder what would happen if you didn't change it after the hard break in until the normal scheduled mileage.. as opposed to waiting the same amount of time to change the oil without the harsh break in...

i think i might change my oil at a few hundred miles.. i have 140 on it already.. maybe at 300.. i just want to break this car in right and not lose out on performance or engine longevity..
 
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