Bose Audio

you're probably better off going with a custom sound system. Bose systems are great, but for the price you would pay from Mazda, even for components, then you could be far happier with a custom system. Just call up a local mazda dealership and ask about it if your really heartset on getting an OEM boze system.

The price you would pay from Mazda? You know, MSRP is $1335 (who really pays MSRP?) and considering the 6CD/Moonroof is $890 (most of which is the cost of the moonroof alone) on the Sport model, that means you're paying a whopping $445 premium for the Bose system. Actually, all things considered, that's not bad at all, and it's even less at invoice ($1148 - $765 = $383). And, it's integrated into the steering wheel controls and center display, to boot.

would either of you know if the 04 mazda3 s came with the bose if it has a sunroof? Wasnt the option always paired together or no?

I'm not sure what the package options were in '04, however in '05 you could only get the bose on the sp23 and the moonroof just came with the 6CD changer.

First off the bose system isn't a dealer installed accessory so they may tell you it can't be done. Second off you can do just about anything if you buy all the parts it needs. Third off like zorminster said it's a prohibitively expensive retrofit for the components. Invest your money in some better speakers, an amp, etc. and you'll be happier and have a heavier wallet.

I think the hardest part would be going after market and pushing the door speakers with an amp - so much wiring involved especially if you plan to use the stock head unit with an amp, but I would not suggest the Bose as posted above. I am sure a decent head unit could push 50W plus to each speaker, which would be better than the stock I'm sure.

[quote author=ambiguity link=topic=66554.msg1143125#msg1143125 date=1168469100]
I think the hardest part would be going after market and pushing the door speakers with an amp - so much wiring involved especially if you plan to use the stock head unit with an amp, but I would not suggest the Bose as posted above. I am sure a decent head unit could push 50W plus to each speaker, which would be better than the stock I'm sure.
[/quote]

Its really not hard to push your front door speakers with an amp. As long as your just pushing a reasonable amount... anything under about 200w RMS is fine. You will just run your amplifier speaker level outs up to behind the head unit and connect in there.


[Headunit] ------- [LOC] |---------------
then take this wire ^^ and hook the [amp]--------|-------------[door speakers]

So my question is...

Since the stock stereo is also pushing out amplified signals to the speakers through the harness, would tapping the amps amplfied signals to the speakers cause an issue? So basically both the stock head unit and amp are pushing the speakers?

I don't mean to jack your thread but I'm using my stock head unit with a 6 channel loc plus 150watt amp to push my alpine 6.5 coaxils speakers...my subs run on a seperate amp but I'm having problems with my speakers...I turn the volume up almost 1/3 of the way up and my speakers fade in and out. The system is connected thru the alternator...I'm also getting a whine noise. The audio shop that installed everything is jerking me around. Any ideas what this issue would be??

Again, I apologize for jacking your thread but it somewhat relates to your question. Thanks!

try adjusting the gain on the amplifier. it might not be adjusted for the output of the head unit.

oh, and what does the shop say, if you can demontrate it?

I turn the gain halfway down on the amp for both the front/rear speakers(gain is up to almost max when speakers fade) but the sound I get when I turn the volume up on the head unit is not that loud or clear at all...The shop has no idea...I keep having to bring it in(6 times now) and no real solution. My issues seem to only happen when I'm in the car lol

well, the whine is one of two things: ground loop, or your RCA and power cables are run side by side. And what do you mean that the system is run through the alternator? That makes me think they took the power cable from the + side of the alternator instead of the battery... and thats just lunacy (and wouldnt work if your car was off w/o possibly damaging the alternator).