[quote author=AzMz3 link=topic=71494.msg1259477#msg1259477 date=1173503455]
[quote author=HiBoost MZ3 link=topic=71494.msg1259244#msg1259244 date=1173491542]
[quote author=AzMz3 link=topic=71494.msg1257888#msg1257888 date=1173428507]
I actually never got the Haltech one to work. Mostly becuase of the boost creep there was no way to control the boost. And the wires ending up coming off the switch.
I didn't like the Haltech as the switch looked generic. I do have a new one that I might add but I'm still on the fence about using it.
The only good thing I can see about the Haltech is the control psi by rpm. I think I will just use throttle control and keep the Greddy unit in. Even with 6psi I have to feather the clutch all the way through 1st and 2nd so I don't see it helping me all that much as I don't plan to boost more than 10psi. If you are getting up there in the high psi then I can see it helping.
You still have the over boost protection within the Haltech with other boost controllers.
I like the Greddy as I can just turn the knob to increase the psi. I can't use the Hi setting though as it starts at about 14+ psi.
I can set the Greddy to 8psi and turn it off and be at 5.8psi.
And I have never seen the Greddy fluxuate, it has always been rock steady.
I am sorry but I have to disagree with you here. The Haltech is much better that any other boost controller as long as you run it correctly. I have not yet found anything that works better. On the E8 now you can set the boost by gear.
The knob is generic and does not look fancy, but it works very good. We do not use the Haltech one as it is too big.
No other BC will have a boost limiter and the ability to adjust according to RPMs.
Something like this in the market would be at least $700.00 and we can sell it for $150.00 as the electronics are in the ECU.
The manual boost controller is good as long as you know what you are doing. You need to step off the car to set it everytime and it is kind of unreliable.
Don't you think that the safety feature on the Haltech to prevent a blown motor is unvaluable?
Come on Juan there is not much to disagree with.
I think it is a good BC and you are right to get the boost by rpm feature on other BC you need to spend alot more than what you sell the Haltech one for. But that is all it has over the Greddy I have.
But you still have the over boost pertection with the Haltech even with other boost controllers. I have hit it many times testing out the Greddy to see where I need it to be.
And for something better than the the Haltech I would agree that the psi by gear would be it on the E8.
I will definately try it again as soon as I put the new knob on and see if the psi by rpm will help for 10 - 12psi passes at the track.
[quote author=Fox Fader link=topic=71494.msg1259256#msg1259256 date=1173491972]
No overboosting for me, with the Haltech I go from 12psi to 8 instead of fuel cut.
I'm lost with this one. And you are not the only one I have heard this from. But how do you set it up to not hit fuel cut and limit the boost.
I would have to think that is impossible as with the Haltech BC connected when I went up to have Juan tune it there was no way to stop it from over boosting but to hit the fuel cut.
Right now mine is at 12psi set to come down to 8 also. But when I hit 12psi I hit the wall.
The boost creep you wre having was due to the 3 inch direct exhaust that you have. The VF22 wastegate port was not enough for the power you were making.
Now, you are hitting the fuel cut with the profec because it is a Haltech safety feature and not the Greddy.
The Haltech has two limiters that we setup. First we have a maximum boost level of 10 psi. Once you hit 10 psi, the ECU will take you to the lowest boost. This is when the correction can be made electronically. But let's say that the wastegate is stuck closed or that the line to the WG is broken, there is nothing that the F10X can correct, so then it will have fuel safety that will prevent the engine from blowing in pieces.
Besides. this system controls the boost better than any other system since it works off the Haltech ECU via the MAP sensor. However, if the boost controlling system (wastegate) is not accurate, like the issue we had with the VF22, then no BC will work correctly.