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Discussion Starter #1
My 3 has been down since last spring, when the transmission was acting up. I had the transmission rebuild last December and decided it would be a good time to handle some body work type issues. Items being addressed are the headlights, front bumper cover, fender liners, and the underside engine splash shields.

The one issue I'm having right now is sourcing the fasteners for the covers. Reference this diagram

Although my car is a hatchback, everything is the same underneath as the sedan. It seems some of the items in the diagram have been superseded.

These are the two shields I'm referencing.



My car never had the forward shield that attaches to the front bumper cover. I need this in place because I live on a gravel road and, at times, rocks get kicked up. That's how I ended up losing the ambient air sensors located behind the grille. Then, the engine splash shield goes into place. All of the U fasteners need to be replaced and, based on my findings, the ones for the splash shield and elsewhere have been superseded with part #9YB3-10-603 - headlamp fastener.

I would appreciate it if someone would snap some pics of these shields mounted under the vehicle. The diagram has bolts and also a couple of plastic fasteners, like this: #GD7A-50-EA1.

Here is one of the old U fasteners:


I'm thinking I can replace the U fasteners attached to the underside of the radiator frame with the above:


My final question is this Phillip's head screw.

I can't remember where that attached. Is it part of the bumper assy?
 

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That's a lot of money just for one U/speed nut. I replaced most of mine with ones from Tractor Supply Co. I think it was under $10 for the u-nuts, bolts, and washers. The only disadvantage is that they are SAE, not metric but that doesn't bother me. I can't help with the phillips screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That's a lot of money just for one U/speed nut. I replaced most of mine with ones from Tractor Supply Co. I think it was under $10 for the u-nuts, bolts, and washers. The only disadvantage is that they are SAE, not metric but that doesn't bother me. I can't help with the phillips screw.
I agree, but I'm picky about the fasteners. It's bad enough US car companies (supposedly) went metric in the 1990s, but to this day I've had Dodge trucks with a mix of metric and SAE under the hood. It gets to be a PITA when performing repairs. I did see a post {somewhere} where the OP suggested fasteners from Ace Hardware. The problem is my local Ace doesn't have the U fasteners.

Anyway, how are the underside splash shields installed?

*EDIT*

The forward shield I have, #56-112, was from Rock Auto. The fit is to bad I can't use it. Fortunately, I found an OEM replacement on e-Bay complete with the Mazda part number sticker.
 

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The forward shield I have, #56-112, was from Rock Auto. The fit is to bad I can't use it. Fortunately, I found an OEM replacement on e-Bay complete with the Mazda part number sticker.
The first aftermarket shield I had was that same one.

PIECE.
OF.
SHIT.

You're exactly right: unuseable. I ever tried to reinforce it with a piece of steel running from one side to the other. Helped slightly, but still wasn't right. I finally threw it away.
 

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The sheild is installed as shown on the below picture i got from a mazdaspeedforums.org post. Basically you need 7 of those speed nuts and two of those plastic fasteners for the big tray. The smaller tray attaches with a handfull of 8mm hex body screws with captured washers kind of like the ones linked below. These are the same screws that hold on the bottom of the inner fender liners where they meet the bottom of the front bumper.


http://i65.tinypic.com/2vv42u1.jpg
Undertray parts - Mazdaspeed Forums


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCs-Universal-Self-Tapping-Screw-Washers-4-8-x-19-mm-Black-8mm-Hex-Head-For/32779859894.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The sheild is installed as shown on the below picture i got from a mazdaspeedforums.org post. Basically you need 7 of those speed nuts and two of those plastic fasteners for the big tray. The smaller tray attaches with a handfull of 8mm hex body screws with captured washers kind of like the ones linked below. These are the same screws that hold on the bottom of the inner fender liners where they meet the bottom of the front bumper.


http://i65.tinypic.com/2vv42u1.jpg
Undertray parts - Mazdaspeed Forums


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCs-Universal-Self-Tapping-Screw-Washers-4-8-x-19-mm-Black-8mm-Hex-Head-For/32779859894.html
Thanks for this info. I wish I had seen it before I ordered OE style screws from ClipsAndFasteners.com, which come in a package of 25 @ .17/ea with shipping factored. I'm slowing sourcing fasteners in bulk either through e-Bay or ClipsAndFasteners for cheaper than the dealership; however, there are a couple of items Priority Mazda has for the best prices.

Mazda Phillips Hex Head Sems® 9CF600516B

Here's a comparison of the OEM Mazda Bumper Splash Shield vs the flimsy Rock Auto aftermarket piece.







 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just an update on this. Here are some images with part numbers in case someone else finds this thread:



This plastic plug is used for the side cover shields which are located in either wheel well. Mazda #69885D



Screw that secures the bumper cover all around. Mazda #9CF600516B



Screw/pin secures the headlamp housing support. Mazda #BC1D56145.
It's also listed as a splash guard retainer. It works better than #NA01-56-145.



These are for the engine splash shield. I also used them for the under bumper cover shield, under the radiator support. Found on e-Bay for less than $12 shipped.


And here's everything buttoned up, with the bumper cover I scored on e-Bay. I lucked out that the bumper cover is the same color as my car, included the fog lamps, and also included the ambient air temperature sensors. The ones on my vehicle were ripped off due to a large, stray rock kicked up on a gravel road. The lack of the under shields didn't help. I replaced the headlamps during this endeavor as well. The old ones are badly yellowed, clouded, and scuffed.








I pulled one of the exhaust shields, which has had me stumped for quite some time. Seems it's material sandwiched with aluminum.





The rearward shield is just as bad:



I had to have one of the CV axles replaced shortly after I purchased the car. The previous owner nailed something that distorted both front rims and bent the axle. I'm thinking this person hit some other stuff, hence why the heat shields are mangled. Granted, I live on a gravel road, but it's so rough and pot hole riddled I drive with great care. There's no way I tore them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Made more progress today. One item I've been looking for that I couldn't find on the parts diagram is the rivet for the duct work that supplies air to the battery (#ZJ01-13-209).




I pulled the front bumper off and encased the harness for the front air temperature sensors in convolute, zip tied, and tucked it in nice and neat. I would have shortened what I soldered if my soldering iron hadn't crapped out.





Unfortunately, the replacement bumper skin is broken on the driver's side. I can use it for now while I figure out how I want to effect a repair.



I was planning to finish buttoning up the car and taking it to the store today (first time on the road since January) until I discovered a hole in the passenger's side CV axle outer joint. Seems the transmission shop tore it (brand new axles), so I have to pull the axle and get a new boot. Seems the fun never ends. :rolledeyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I'm closer. The new cv axle I purchased from Priority Mazda has been installed along with new pinch bolts for the ball joints. Here are pictures of the passenger's side and driver's side bolts.





The driver's size doesn't look bad, but for some reason it appears slightly distorted with a bend. I might have the axle nut torqued to a proper value (the book calls for 175-ft.lbs - 200-ft/lbs) but I can't tell since my torque wrench goes to 160-ft/lbs. I had hit the nut with my impact just to get it snug, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's somewhere in the good range. I have a torque multiplier; however, it's for ¾" drive sockets and the socket I have for the axle nut is ½". I'd rather be safe than risk thinking it's OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Finally drove her to work today after having been down since 10/2017. Damn, I missed driving this car. The new (to me) bumper looks great as do the new headlamps. The only major issue is both front tires needed air. Other than that, I topped off the gas tank after having dumped half a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank. It was nice paying $18 for half a tank of gas versus $35+ it would have cost to put half a tank in my truck. Now, I have to become reacquainted with the steering controls (cruise, radio) and other facets of Zoom Zoom.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
New headlamp assemblies are always great. Did you have success aiming them?
You know, I haven't tried yet since there are three adjustment screws on the back, two of which have those funky caps.

My morning commute is just after 6:15 every morning with the first part of my commute on a two-lane road. Every morning, I signal the same oncoming drivers to turn on their headlights. The guilty parties all drive dark colored vehicles which are difficult to see during the early morning hours. This morning, I was impressed that my headlamps are aimed so far left that the one jerk who never turns on his light was wholly illuminated. :grin2:
 
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