First step is to read the codes.
Thanks for the response. As it turns out, the ABS pump/module was faulty. I purchased a new unit and installed it. I bleed the brakes the old fashion way. The vehicle brakes very well and the ABS light is now off, But, the orange/amber TCS/DCS light stays on. I've been digging about online and there's a few posts about turn the steering wheel from left to right whilst stationary. I tried that, the light is still on. As I don't have a scan tool that I can diagnose this with, I'm thinking it might have bad ABS wheel sensor. What's your opinion?sometimes its not as extreme as the whole module... but a bad wheel speed sensor or the wiring harness/ electrical plug to it... need a scanner that can read each corner to rule it out quickly. or do it the old fashion way with a voltmeter and spin each corner to see the readings
those 2 lights on means traction control and abs is disabled, but still be able to drive the car until the electrical fault is found by a technician or a diy with a decent scanner.
Just leave yourself some space cushion in front of you so you dont need to do any panic stops
I have driven it. ABS light goes out on start up and stays off when driving. I've removed and tested the all ABS wheel sensors, and they seem ok. But now the ABS light is on after refitting them. I'm going to have to invest in a better scanner, my current OBD scanner is only for engine faults and that's it.Have you driven it? At least on one car I have some lights don't go out until the car makes it 50 feet.
I have driven it. ABS light goes out on start up and stays off when driving. I've removed and tested the all ABS wheel sensors with a mulitmetre (OHMS test), and they seem ok. But now the ABS light is on after refitting them. I'm going to have to invest in a better scanner, my current OBD scanner is only for engine faults and that's it.
I am curious Jughead where you were able to buy a new ABS module so quickly?, was this a rejuvenated one from a re-builder in your area?.Thanks for the response. As it turns out, the ABS pump/module was faulty. I purchased a new unit and installed it. I bleed the brakes the old fashion way. The vehicle brakes very well and the ABS light is now off, But, the orange/amber TCS/DCS light stays on. I've been digging about online and there's a few posts about turn the steering wheel from left to right whilst stationary. I tried that, the light is still on. As I don't have a scan tool that I can diagnose this with, I'm thinking it might have bad ABS wheel sensor. What's your opinion?
I purchased a unit from a wrecked vehicle. And I am looking around for a better scan tool.I am curious Jughead where you were able to buy a new ABS module so quickly?, was this a rejuvenated one from a re-builder in your area?.
Should you upgrade your code reader, get one that will bleed the ABS module, from what I have read, the ABS has to be bled by computer control.
I hope the module works out ok for you.I purchased a unit from a wrecked vehicle. And I am looking around for a better scan tool.
The module did work out mate. But the traction control light stays on though. I've used a snap on scan tool and checked and erased all codes. Test drive, light still on check and scan for codes. No codes. I'm at a bit of a loss ATM. Anu ideas?I hope the module works out ok for you.
That'll be fantastic. Thank you. PM me please and I'll give you my email address.I have a PDF copy of the Mazda3 manual that covers the BL, it is the American version and covers all the BL models built, would you like a copy?.
No codes at all.
This is the best I can do, the TCS is part of the ABS module system and what I have read on the bleeding of the brakes, the ABS module has to be self bled with a compatible OBD2 code reader that will bleed the ABS module.
I cannot help you with why there is no fault code, are you getting an ABS fault code at all?.